BROWN CAFESAmsterdam's Answer to London's Pubsby Toni DabbsDespite the rather grim sounding name, "brown cafes" are among the most pleasant places in Amsterdam to relax with a cup of coffee or Dutch beer. Called "brown" because of their traditionally smoke stained interiors and dark wooden fittings, most of the cozy cafes are not as dim inside as the term suggests. And additional tables and chairs outdoors provide patrons with front row seats for watching activities on adjacent streets and canals. Some quaint cafes have survived at the same location for centuries, an amazing feat considering that they owe their existence to a handful of regulars who drop by for lunch or a drink after work. One of the oldest is Cafe Chris (Bloemstraat 42), which opened as a tap house in 1624. Reportedly, laborers working on the nearby Westerkerk (Western Church), built between 1620 and 1638, received their wages in this simple establishment — and likely spent a portion of their pay there, too. Its only decoration is the assortment of beer steins — glass, china, metal, plain and fancy — hanging from the ceiling.
Other brown cafes are located throughout Amsterdam’s old city center. Because of certain commonalities, they sometimes are compared to London's historic pubs. For example, many originated as outlets for products of specific breweries or distilleries. And each developed its own character — individual, yet reflecting its neighborhood. Although beverages are their bread and butter in a sense, brown cafes also offer snacks and light meals like their London counterparts. Bitterballen (croquettes) are popular, as are uitsmijter (sandwiches), and desserts are available to compliment the ubiquitous cappuccino. Entertainment is not a feature at brown cafes, although buskers occasionally give impromptu performances by outdoor tables. Instead, the cafes tend to be quiet enough for patrons to read a newspaper or play toepen (a Dutch card game similar to whist). Usually, the loudest sounds are the laughter and chatter of regulars engaging each other or newcomers in conversation and sharing their opinions on almost any subject. Contact Netherlands Board of Tourism, PO Box 1078, 31 Adelaide St. E., Toronto ON M5C 2K5. Netherlands Board of Tourism, 225 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago IL 60601. Telephone 888-464-6552. by Toni Dabbs
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Almost as old is Cafe Papeneiland (Prinsengracht 2), dating from 1642. Its name means Pope's Island, and it’s said to have been started by a coffin maker and funeral director who sold drinks as a sideline. Behind its step gabled, rose brick facade is a pine paneled interior accented with pretty blue-and-white tiles, plates and other ceramic ornaments.
No doubt Cafe Hoppe (Spui 18-20) looks much as it did when it first opened in 1670 — small tables packed into the room and sand sprinkled on the floor. In good weather, customers crowd onto the pavement in front of the building, happily standing with beverages in hand.
Cafe 't Smalle (Egelantiersgracht 12), founded in 1786, has a narrow staircase leading to an elevated seating area at the rear, giving it a larger indoor capacity than most brown cafes. Nevertheless, it often fills to overflowing. Chairs placed on a wooden dock canalside help accommodate the clientele, and patrons frequently arrive by boat, tying up at the dock.