A California Coastal VillageBy Judy Babcock WylieDriving down the Pacific coast on Highway 1, about an hour and a half south of San Francisco, you’ll find a soft fog often obscures the tiny village of Davenport.
Davenport is located on limestone cliffs that fall off precipitously, creating a deep channel for whales as they make their 6,000 mile journey along the coast. The whales pass closer to land here than any other spot along their route. It was this rich population of gray whales that tempted Capt. John Davenport to try something new in 1850. He and his men would venture out in whale boats near shore to kill the whales, then tow them back to land, where the blubber was processed into whale oil. Davenport even built a pier to support his activities. Soon the captain learned that more money could be made shipping cheese and lumber to San Francisco from his pier, so whaling was dropped. The site of that pier is now Davenport Landing Beach, located north of town. Its a good place to watch wind surfers. An offshore reef creates perfect waves for these butterfly-like surf skimmers. We arrived in Davenport in the morning, and stopped at the Whale City Bakery for huge cinnamon buns and a cup of Steve’s Smooth French coffee, a local favorite. Then we walked down the hill on Coast Road to the cavernous barn of the Aeolus Boat Company. Owner Bill Grunewald has been building rowboats and dories in this former livery stable for 35 years. Inside, fine, handmade wooden boats sit and hang in various stages of completion, hoping for a flood so they can ease away from land and sail for the first time. Grunewald, who named his operation after Aeolus, the god of wind, makes simple dinghies, rowboats and open boats by the lapstrike method, laying board over board in a shingle-like pattern, creating works of art. The workshop is full of light, the air dense with motes of wood dust since sanding is a fine art here. Each boat is made to order with owners waiting patiently. “There are still people who can’t stand plastic or stamped out merchandise,” said Grunewald in his booming voice. “They want a good wooden boat, and that’s what I make.” In a workshop tucked behind the Aeolus Boat barn we found Joe Dihl, a man who is handy with a needle. Not for needlepoint, but for stitching up bags and carryalls for wind surfing gear, and for repairing wind surf equipment for the athletes who come to try the coves and breaks near Davenport. Short and wiry, he works in a one-room studio with a wooden floor, where he lays out brilliant teal, blue and silver nylon fabric to make his wares. When he has time you can find him surf sailing at nearby Waddell Creek, Scotts Creek or Davenport Landing.
Step across the driveway to the tiny shop of David Boye Knives. Boye makes knives by hand—hunting knives, pocket knives, skinning knives, and they are expensive., many running hundreds of dollars. Still, just seeing them shining in their case can give a person pleasure, each an object of art. Walking back up Coast Road, you come to St. Vincent DePaul church The simple, elegant structure was built entirely of cement from the local cement factory in 1914. It was modeled after a church in Switzerland, thanks to the influence of local Swiss dairy farmers. We noticed on the sign that there is mass at 6 p.m. every day and on Saturday at 7:30 p.m. it is in Spanish to serve local agricultural workers. The cement plant nearby is still a big part of Davenport. Although its smokestacks loom in the distance just north of town, much of it is screened by a bank of trees. Visitors almost forget it’s there, except for the constant rumbling, like a train in the distance that never arrives. In the old days, dust from the plant was a problem. Alverda Orlando, a historian and former resident, remembers when “We’d hang our sheets out on a line with the fold at the bottom, and when they were dry, we’d have to pour the dust out!.” But the plant is a benign presence these days, and provides a strong tax base for the town. Back on Highway 1, we stopped in at the Whale Hedge Gallery, where watercolorist Bill Fravel paints Davenport seascapes, often featuring the massive offshore Davenport Rock. While there, we picked up one of his big colorful (and free) postcards. You can cross the highway and walk around the Odwalla juice building to take the steep path down to the hidden Davenport Beach. The small, sandy cove is fun to explore but can be dangerous at high tide. So be careful as you search for shells and explore the caves lining the beach. “Scan the water for what looks like vertical columns of fog. That’s what a whale’s spout looks like. Lower your gaze and soon you’ll see a whale breech or spy hop, jumping out of the water vertically to see what’s going on.”
“We started with a few Crockpots and electric skillets,” says Marcia,. “We didn’t even have a kitchen then. I would knead the bread on the table saw with an oil cloth thrown over it!” The Cash Store is now famous for its food—local fresh fish, organic salads, and the best and biggest hamburger on the coast. The elegant silver-haired McDougals no longer make pottery.
But by the time you leave this village you’ll be glad you didn’t blink. New Davenport Cash Store Rates run from $85 to $150, including tax. -Updated 4-8-99- |
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At first glance the town seems unimportant, and if you blink as you drive you could miss it. It looks like a few structures strung along the highway, not a real town at all. But don’t be misled. Turn right into a grassy cliff-top parking area, get out and stroll its paths and you’ll discover a cliff-top haven where you can hike to a hidden beach lined with caves, spy whales from shore or buy antique Ethiopian jewelry. If those things don’t interest you, you can watch craftsmen build wooden boats by hand, buy a hand-made collectible knife, or browse in a studio that produces hand-blown glass paperweights and lamps. 
In a snug bungalow across the street is Lundberg Glass, where artists blow molten glass into world globe paperweights, art deco lamps and glass bells. Ask to see the shed out back, where seconds with tiny flaws are sold at a discount of a third or more.
The heart of Davenport is the New Davenport Cash Store, a restaurant and bed and breakfast with an extraordinary gift shop. The operation had an unusual beginning 20 years ago when owners Bruce and Marcia McDougal operated a pottery school. Marcia had agreed to feed the students and was soon serving rich soups and homemade bread. 
After dinner we always stroll around the Cash Store’s gift shop, which is full of silver crosses from Ethiopia, hand-made wooden animals from Ecuador and gauzy women’s skirts from India, as well as fine pottery from several local artists. When it is time to turn in, guests simply climb the wooden stairs in the back and find their room upstairs. The Pelican Room and Captain Davenport’s room are two favorites, where you can lie in bed and see the whales breeching offshore through your window. There is also a small house in back with more rooms. It’s a little more private, and a little quieter. Most of Davenport’s pleasures are the quiet kind.