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The Premier Spas of Eastern Europe

by Mary Ashcraft

Many North Americans still harbor the misconception that European spas are fat-farms, mostly for older women seeking lost youth through quick injections of goat glands. This, in part,�is an old wives tale. The European spa approach to get well along with the American idea to get fit combines the best of both worlds. It's not a new idea.

Hungary

Ah! the baths of Budapest--the "calidas aquas." In ancient Hungary, the Romans enjoyed "taking the waters" and later so did the Turkish sultans--most notably Suleyman the Magnificent. Both cultures built elaborate buildings with massage and steam rooms over natural geothermal fissures for which the area has been famous for thousands of years. The banks of the Danube became a veritable bathing paradise; the healing waters are still there for those seeking a cure for an ailment or for those simply seeking to feel like a sultan or a sultana.

Ideally located in the heart of Budapest, Hungary's culturally active capital, is Margaret Island. Situated in the famed Danube River, it is a refuge of shade trees, ponds, and a rose garden and the site of the Danubias Thermal Hotel, the first luxury spa hotel to be built in a major city. Mr. Sandor Betegh, president of Danubius Hotels, explains that his hotels and spa resorts "strive to provide a mix of exclusive hotel atmosphere and top medical treatments to ensure that guests receive the maximum benefit from their stay."� He adds, "Our motto is 'mens sana in corpore sano'---a sound spirit in a healthy body."

Fifty feet away from the Danubias Thermal Hotel and joined to it by an underground passageway is the more than one hundred year old Ramada Grand Hotel, restored and renewed in the romantic style evocative of the Austro-Hungarian empire . Their therapy programs are based on the three valuable thermal springs of Margaret Island. The special properties of these springs have proven helpful in the curing of joint and muscle disorders, some degenerative nerve conditions, and in the healing of bone fractures, and disorders of peripheral circulation. All healing regimens are put into motion after a thorough examination from one of the staff of qualified doctors.

While some clients are affecting cures for serious complaints with laser acupuncture, medical packs and carbonic baths, others may simply enjoy the underwater massage or, bringing in the American philosophy that good health requires physical effort, the new fitness room and sauna, underwater gymnastics and aerobic exercises.

Couples will find much to their liking here. While the wife may be enjoying a mud pack and use of the complete beauty salon, the husband may take a swim in the pool, or jog on the island paths alongside the legendary Danube. Or both might take a bike ride (furnished free by the hotel) around the park, or sit in the rose garden and watch the passing parade. Just minutes away, of course, is majestic downtown Budapest with its castle, boutique shopping, opera, concerts and boat rides on the Danube. Also in downtown Budapest is the world-famous Danubius Gellert Spa Hotel built in 1918. Its therapeutic pool is an eclectic extravaganza with iBaroque columns, delicate wrought-iron balconies, and a retractable Art Nouveau ceiling, was once the hotel's garden. It is particularly noted for treatments for a wide range of complaints from bronchial ailments to gynecological problems.

Don't leave Budapest without enjoying the healing powers and pleasures of the mineral waters in the 400-year-old domed Turkish bath Kiraly Furdo built by Arszlan Pasha in 1565. Unchanged since the Ottomans exploited the benefits of its springs, local people come to continue the tradition. (women on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays- men on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays). A nominal fee is charged at the door and you receive a spare linen apron to wear to the pool. The locals are very comfortable in their bathing and skip the modest apron entirely. A key is also given for a small and spotless changing booth. Hang on to the key and remember the number over the changing room door. Next, don the apron or not, and take the winding staircase leading down to the pool. The stone steps are worn into grooves by the thousands of feet that have come to "take-the- waters". As you float on the mineral enriched pool, bits of dancing colors are projected onto the water,� from small geometric pieces of glass embedded in the oriental dome, you will truly feel transported back in time.

Czech Republic

For a complete change of scenery and atmosphere a growing number of health conscious Americans are discovering the venerable and fairy tale-like spa town of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) in the Czech Republic.  Nestled in a lush valley, straddling the Tepla River in the verdant Czech countryside is the oldest of the Bohemian spa towns. Since 1349 this picturesque village has catered to and pampered the crowned heads of Europe and literary and musical giants have drunk from its 12 natural springs and been inspired by its beauty. Legend says that the healing springs came to the notice of Emperor Charles IV when his hunting dogs fell yelping into the hot waters. However, history tells us that people came to bathe in these springs for centuries and later to drink from them.

The spa village of hotels, villas, and colonnades reflect the ultimate in� 19th century opulence. Atop Castle Hill is situated the most comprehensive treatment complex in Karlovy Vary. It is the Bristol Palace spa hotel, with annexes in the Orava, Sokol, and Livia hotels, each with its own treatment facility.

Under the watchful eye of internationally known Dr. Ladislav Spisak, M.D., CSc, classical Balneotherapy is used in the cure of stomach and intestinal disorders, gout, fat metabolism, obesity, and motor problems. The drinking of mineral water is a very important part of the program, plus healthful eating regimens prepared to, order by the doctor/dietitian team. Hydrotherapeutic procedures like mineral baths with various ingredients, under water massages, Jacuzzi and hydroxer water treatments are not only a part of the spa program but are wonderfully stress-reducing and just plain fun. The client may also speak with a specialist in medical surgery or plastic surgery.

Dr. Spisak also emphasizes the importance of movement therapy in the form of indoor remedial gymnastics and outdoor walks of varying durations and degrees of difficulty. A favorite walk is past the colonnade along Vridelni (Spring) Street. Strollers may fill a drinking cup from� any one of the many fountains of healing waters, each with a different chemical formulation. There are roughly fifty miles of marked paths through the most scenic parts of the village woods.

Attractions in and around Karlovy Vary will tempt the traveler to explore the area and come to understand why Goethe, Bach, and Chopin were so taken with its beauty.  Close by is the tiny medieval town of Loket with the castle of Emperor Charles IV, and the other spa town of Marienbad. For the traveler looking for a more vigorous form of diversion, there are golf, tennis and horseback riding through the ancient forests of Western Bohemia.

Bulgaria

Along the coast of the Black Sea is Bulgaria's sun-and-fun Riviera with its spa treatment center hotels dotting the coastline's beautiful sand beaches. Most of the country's 300� hot mineral springs have been converted into modern spa resorts. Those on the Black Sea feature state-of-the-art facilities specializing in rejuvenation, longevity, relaxation, general fitness, anti-stress treatments, body building, aerobics, diet, medical treatments, Antitab (smoking cessation) and, last but not least, beauty salons.

The Grand Hotel Varna and the Hotel Ambassador both offer a complete Balneological center with a wide range of curative treatments, plus indoor and outdoor swimming pools, gym and various sports facilities. If all the treatments and sports aren't enough to keep you busy, there are tours arranged for visits to ancient cities, museums and colorful market places. Many people also enjoy the fairly fast-paced night life in the clubs, taverns and varieties of� restaurants.

Romania

Claims to the Most Revolutionary Spa Program in the World is in Romania. Situated in Northern Bucharest is an area of lakes and public gardens called the Green Belt and it is here in the Flora Geriatric Hotel where Dr. Ana Aslan discovered the serum that is supposed to stop the aging process and in certain cases to reverse it. The name of this biothopic drug is Gerovital and it is claimed to be good for (hold your breath) "preserving youthfulness, vitality, increased energy to unparalleled levels, improvement of memory and physical and intellectual capacity."� In the words of Dr. Ana Aslan, "Under the direction of my qualified staff, you will be able to feel young once again".

Is there anything to all this?� European spas incorporate therapy and the prevention of illness. They operate under strict medical supervision and are recognized by European national health plans. In short, they practice a form of alternative medicine, stressing the natural health giving substances in the earth and mineral waters with sometimes amazing results.

These countries are rich in history, natural beauty and centuries of culture--well worth visiting for those reasons alone, but, the average, over-worked and over-stressed American with no apparent illness to cure might just try a European spa for the fantastic sense of relaxation and well being it inspires. It will make for an interesting and worthwhile break in your tour of Eastern Europe.��

If you go, you may want to contact the Ramada Grand Hotel Budapest/Danubius Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, Telephone: (36 1) 311-1000, 112-0200, Fax: (36 1) 269-4589; or the Spa Hotel Bristol Palace in Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic,� Telephone: 00420-17-3113512, Fax: 00420-17-26683.

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