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SAVVY SHOPPING LONDON

by Madelyn Miller

No matter what the dollar and pound relationship, there are always some things that are a bargain in London.� Like the underwear at Marks and Spencer (that is where the queen buys her underwear)

But the stodgy old English image is changing. Things are flashier and funkier. Colors are rich rather than muted. And everyone seems to be searching for their own personal style rather than following the good old British traditional dress code.

Of course you can find wonderful things are the well-known stores like Harrods and Liberty of London. But smart Londoners are turning to more alternative sources, such as markets and craft fairs, and vintage and second hand clothing stores.

The most famous (and certainly the most popular) of the weekend markets in London is in Portabello Road on Saturday. On my last visit, I felt it was outgrowing itself, and was so crowded that even die-hard shoppers like myself would find it overwhelming. There are over 2,000 traders and zillions of buyers. �The best reason to go is to enjoy the atmosphere. It's like a large party with buskers, and organ grinders, and human statues to entertain you. And a variety of ethnic foods to tempt you.

The dealers must be doing well. I have noticed several that have been in the same place for over 10 years. And everyone seems to be leaving with a package (My unofficial measurement of how good the merchandise is.) This time, the best thing I bought was lunch at Novelli (two blocks from Portabello Road off �Nothinghill Gate.

A better time to go to Portabello is on Friday. Many of the dealers are open then and it is much less crowded.

There are great buys in clothing (vintage and new jackets for as little as $12) in the area under the bridge. If you walk past the bridge towards Ladingham Grove, there is a Caribbean and African market with wonderful spices and foods and fabrics. You might even be lucky enough to hear some ethnic music.

I prefer the Camden Passage in Islington . It's quaint and charming and pleasant to browse through. I bought two necklaces this trip, a golden tortoise collar for $45 and a faux Navajo Indian turquoise necklace for $20. I have found something there every time I went. My shopping buddy Carole found an antique measuring stick for her husband for

About $14 which we later saw at Portabello Road for nearly three times as much. �Don't miss Chapter One. They provide props for many movies and theatre performances.

SPECIAL STORES

BUREAU

Whenever I leave for a trip, there is a last minute frenzy of activity. I always feel totally disorganized and stressed out. Sometimes a jet-lag massage on arrival helps. But I found serenity inside BUREAU a paper and organizing store. Divided into walls of cubicles, everything certainly has its place. �It was so soothing to see everything lined up row by row, color by color. It seemed almost like cubes of orgami.

I bought a set of 5 plastic snap-shut envelopes to hold foreign currency and a purple notebook with yellow spirals. I felt like a kid on the first day of school with all new stuff and a promise to be organized this year. Even if I don't keep my promise, I will come back to BUREAU. 10 Great Newport Street, Covent Garden London WC2H 7JA. Tel.0171 379 7898.

MARIBOU.

If you like patchwork and interesting combinations of colors and textures and fabrics, don't miss Maribou. I was fascinated by colorful patchwork of fleece in jackets and coats.

($150-$300) And if I had the body for it, I would have bought one of the "gypsy" skirts with floaty scraps of harmonizing fabrics surrounding the skirt in luscious layers.

55 Pembridge Road W11 (at the beginning of Portabello Road)

Tel 0171-727-1166

CHAPTER ONE

This store has more than displays, it has a philosophy. The owner encourages you to pick one perfect piece and wear it always rather than collecting lots of smaller, less significant items. And all the pieces here make a statement. The stuff isn't cheap, but it is a fair value for the specialness �and quality. Even the black blind embossed business cards are unique. Camden Passage. 2 Pierrepont Arcade London N1 SEG

0171 359 1185

Best Bets in Market

BEST MARKET FOR CROWD WATCHING

Camden Market. Bring your camera as well as your wallet and get of some fantastically punk characters. But do keep you eye on your wallet.

Camden High Street junction with Buck Street NW!

Most parts open Sat and Sun from 9am to 5:30 pm

Tube: Camden Town

BEST MARKET FOR FREE ENTERTAINMENT

Portabello Road has an amazing assortment of street entertainers

Watch street performers and listen to impromtu concerts

Portabello Road, W10 and W11; Golborne Road W10.

Tube: Notting Hill Gate or Westbourne Park or Ladbrooke Grove Tube.

BEST MARKET FOR IMPORTED ITEMS

Picadilly Craft Market in the Courtyard of St. James Church

Handicrafts and jewelry from Ireland, India, Africa, Egypt and more. Mostly smaller things and good gift items under $25. I have bought something here on my last three trips to London

197 Picadilly. �Open 10am to 6pm Thurs. to Sat.

Tube:Green Park or Picadilly Circus

BEST BACKGROUND MUSIC AT A MARKET

The Apple Market at Covent Gardens often has symphony-quality performers busking.

This makes it particularly nice to dine in the piazza

Covent Garden just outside the Opera House.

James Street WC2� 9am-5pm daily

Tube: Covent Garden

MOST UPSCALE MARKET

You'll find fine quality antiques at Camen Passage. Stalls sell the cheaper items while surrounding shops offer high quality goods.

Popular with Europeans, it has a very international flavor.

Open 10-5 Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri.��� 8-5 Wed and Sat.

Upper Street Islington N1

Tube: Angel

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