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Winter Sports in Yellowstone Country

Snowcoaches, snowmobiles, cross-country skis
or snowshoes -- take your pick

by Barbara Gibbs Ostmann

Tucked into the cozy interior of the snowcoach, my traveling companions and I peered through the frosty windows in awe as a herd of bison slowly strolled across the snow-packed roadway. Outside, snowmobilers slid to a halt and joined the bison-induced "traffic jam." One of the wonders of Yellowstone National Park, anytime of year, is having herds of bison or elk surround your vehicle as you wait for the "rush hour" to subside.

In winter, the park is closed to automobiles, except for one stretch of road from Gardiner to Cooke City, Mont. (North Entrance to Northeast Entrance). Elsewhere, access to the park is by snowcoach, snowmobile or skis. It is a magical time to see the park. Snowy landscapes, frosty trees and steamy geysers create an almost mystical environment, just right for wildlife viewing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling or snowcoaching.

Snowcoaches are enclosed, heated vehicles that travel on caterpillar or tank treads over the snow. The red and yellow fleets that tour the park are vintage Bombardiers, manufactured in Canada for winter combat use and converted into tourism vehicles. Some of the coaches are modern vans that have had the tires replaced with tank treads. While some people say the vans are more comfortable, I like the ambiance of the vintage vehicles. On the two round-trips I made into the park last winter, the people packed into the curved turtleshell along with me were from around the country and ranged in age from pre-teen to senior citizen. Everyone was in a merry mood and played "musical chairs" at each stop to ensure that everyone had a comfortable seat and a good view.

The drivers of the snowcoaches are also guides, and their personalities flavor the experience. Mike Bryers, chief guide of Yellowstone Alpen Guides, is a jack of all trades: rancher, artist, guide, hunter, alternative minister, you-name-it. He brings his love of the region to life as he describes the wildlife and natural wonders of the park. Driver/guide Patrick Matheny is an employe of Amfac Parks and Resorts, which operates the concessions at several national parks, including Yellowstone. Matheny's passion is natural history, which he illustrates with stories, show-and-tell and stops along the way.

Wildlife watching

Winter is a good time of year to view wildlife in the park. Yellowstone's geyser-fed rivers remain unfrozen, creating a natural winter refuge for hundreds of waterfowl, especially trumpeter swans. Many of the animals, such as bison and elk, are in a slow-moving state, trying to conserve energy to make it to spring.

"This time of year is hardest on all species, and any unwarranted movement can mean life or death for the animal. Any time of the year, you should never approach wildlife, staying at least 25 yards away from all species, 100 yards away from bears. This is for your safety as well as the animal's safety," writes Carl Swoboda in a West Yellowstone guide. "A good rule of thumb is if you cause an animal to move or change its behavior, then you are too close. Use binoculars, spotting scopes or telephoto lenses to allow you to view wildlife in a natural, undisturbed state."

A great way to get a good look at the wildlife is with a local guide who knows the park inside and out. One such is Ken Sinay, of Northern Rockies Natural History. Based in Bozeman, Sinay provides wildlife, natural and cultural history field tours throughout Montana and Yellowstone National Park. On our full-day safari with him last spring, we spotted bears, wolves, coyotes, elk, eagles, mountain bluebirds and much more. He explained what we were seeing and alerted us to things we should be looking for, making the day an informative mini course on Yellowstone ecology.

Staying in the park

During the winter season, late December through early March, only two of the park's hotels are open, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Old Faithful can by reached by snowcoach or snowmobile from the West Entrance or from the park. Mammoth is accessible from the North Entrance by car and from the park by snowcoach or snowmobile. This is the second winter season all 100 rooms of the newly constructed Old Faithful Snow Lodge are open.

"There is nothing quite like the experience of seeing crystal-covered bison appearing from the mist surrounding the hot springs and geysers," says Jim McCaleb, general manager of Yellowstone National Park Lodges. "Adventurers will never forget skiing and snowshoeing snow-covered tranquil trails and walkways that take them to geysers surrounded by ice-covered trees, waterfalls, woods and hills."

You can bring your own equipment (snowmobiles, skis, snowshoes, clothing) or rent it at the park. You can sign up for an interpretive tour by ski, snowshoe or snowcoach, or for a ski or snowshoe lesson.

There are several winter lodging packages available, including a special Snow Card discount. The Yellowstone Association Institute also offers educational programs throughout the year. The park is closed mid-March to mid-April.

Outside the park

Although the park is the main draw, the gateways to the park -- West Yellowstone, Gardiner and Cooke City, Mont., and Cody and Jackson, Wyo. -- are attractions in and of themselves. West Yellowstone, in particular, offers winter sports enthusiasts the time of their lives. Snowmobilers and cross-country skiers can explore the millions of acres of public lands, while nearby downhill ski resorts, such as Big Sky, provide visitors a variety of thrills and challenges.

Tucked away in the southwest corner of Montana, West Yellowstone, the west entrance to the park, is the "Snowmobiling Capital of the World." The area averages more than 150 inches of powder snow each year. With 400-plus miles of groomed snowmobile trails in the surrounding national forests and 200 miles of trails within the national park, there are options for riders of every skill level. The National Park Service is currently evaluating snowmobiling in Yellowstone park, but a final decision has not yet been made. Snowmobiles will have normal access during this winter season.

Cross-country skiing vies with snowmobiling for the sport of choice in West Yellowstone. The town is the official training site for the United States Nordic and Biathlon Ski Teams. From the Fall Training Camp in November to the Rendezvous Ski Race in March, West Yellowstone offers something for Nordic skiers of all levels.

Marc Sheppard, program director of both the West Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation and the U.S. Summer Biathlon, beams with pride as he leads visiting skiers along the miles of groomed tracks that make up the Rendezvous Ski Trails, in the Gallatin National Forest on the edge of town. This trail system is professionally groomed from early November through April with both diagonal stride tracks and a 12-foot skating lane. The trail system is the site of the Yellowstone Rendezvous Marathon Race, held each year in March. Last year more than 600 racers competed. The Youth Festival, for kids ages 3 to 15, is also in March. The foundation also sponsors a monthly series of non-racing events. 

Yellowstone Country offers some of the nation's best options for over-snow exploring and adventuring. But once you've sampled the wonders of Yellowstone in winter, chances are you'll want to return to experience its charms in other seasons, too.

Contact information

Yellowstone National Park, 307-344-7381 or www.nps.gov/yell .

Yellowstone National Park Lodges, 307-344-7901; for reservations, 307-344-7311; www.travelyellowstone.com .

Yellowstone Association Institute, 307-344-2294 or www.YellowstoneAssociation.org .

Northern Rockies Natural History, 406-586-1155 or www.beyondyellowstone.com .

Travel Montana, 800-VISITMT (847-4868) or www.wintermt.com .

West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce, 406-646-7701 or www.westyellowstonechamber.com  or www.wyellowstone.com

Yellowstone Alpen Guides, 800-858-3502 or www.yellowstoneguides.com .

West Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation, 406-646-0012 or altius@gomontana.com .

Text copyright 2000 Barbara Gibbs Ostmann

Images courtesy Yellowstone National Park

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