Travellady MagazineTM


On Horseback in Mexico

By Mary Ashcraft

Rancho Las Cascadas surrounded by seven thousand acres of ranchland in the spectacular Mexican highlands offers its international guests Swiss attention to detail together with the color and panache of the real Mexico as experienced on horseback.

Mexico’s introduction to the horse goes back to the sixteenth century when the Spanish conquistadors brought their Arabian ponies with them to Spain’s new conquest of North America. Today the art of horsemanship can be seen in the country charreadas or Mexican-style rodeos and in the country’s fine equestrian team that competes internationally.  Considering the long-standing tradition of horsemanship that runs in the thread of Mexican life, it is surprising that there are few opportunities for the well-traveled visitor to experience the thrill of exploring Mexico’s magnificent highlands on the back of a caballo criollo, the disciplined but spirited Mexican horse.

Several equestrian vacations are offered at some of the heavily visited coastal resorts of Mexico. Uniquely, Rancho Las Cascadas, inaugurated less than two years ago, offers the adventurous traveler a view of “Old Mexico” from the saddle as well as comfortable accommodations decorated with the sunny colors of Mexico and excellent international and Mexican cuisine. Visiting experienced riders enjoy the carefully hand picked horses and the superior amenities offered by Rancho Las Cascadas, but so do guests who have never been on a horse.

Located less than 50 miles to the north of Mexico City, halfway between the rural towns of Jilotopec and Tula off highway 57 to Queretaro, Rancho Las Cascadas is situated in a stunning valley several miles from the main highway in what can truly be described as the old Mexico with its sparsely populated Big Sky country, rolling hills and great savannahs carpeted with pink and yellow wild flowers. It is accessible to several fascinating towns and the important and spectacular ruins of ancient Tula, thought to have been the seat of the Toltec empire. Private transport from Mexico City’s glittering new international airport directly to the ranch is highly recommended and can be arranged by Rancho Las Cascadas for the one- to two-hour transfer from the airport.

Rancho Las Cascadas, owned and operated by Swiss-born Ursula Wipraechtiger, offers riders of all skill levels as well as non riders the comforts of her intimate ranch that incorporates all the color and imagination of Mexico’s classic country interiors plus five-star quality service, marvelous cuisine, and a stable of spirited but disciplined horses. Las Cascadas can accommodate up to 20 guests, though ten visitors or less make up the average complement, making for an unprecedented amount of personal attention to the interests and wishes of individual guests. The guest log includes comments from pleased visitors from Europe and North America.

True to its name the Ranch of the Cascades sits on the edge of a ravine overlooking an impressive waterfall that feeds a secluded swimming hole. Guests may brave the pool, often on the cool side as the daytime air temperature in this Mexican Eden averages between the mid 70’s to mid 80’s year round. It is rarely uncomfortably hot at the ranch, and a light blanket for sleeping at night is frequently required as evening temperatures drop in this Big Sky countryside.

La Cocina:

Meals at Las Cascadas deserve special mention. Supervised by an amazing young chef, Valentín Tolentín Sanchez, three square meals daily are a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. In close collaboration with Ursula, Valen prepares an international cuisine with a definite Mexican attitude. Extraordinary attention is given to protecting guests from Toltec tummy, and this includes the universal use of bottled water even for preparing soups. A typical supper might begin with a delicate cold avocado soup, followed by a savory chicken in chocolate mole sauce and ending with a refreshing dessert of lime sorbet in vodka. Complimentary wines accompany lunches and dinners. Valen’s artistic talents are not confined to the kitchen. The table setting for each meal is imaginative and appropriate to the menu and to any special holiday. As an example, chicken in chocolate mole sauce is served on the Day of the Dead (All Hallow’s Eve)--a tradition in Mexico since the time of the Aztecs---and Valen decorates the table with the traditional offerings of the holiday. Fine crystal and china from Switzerland complete the picture.

Los Caballos:

Walk out to field or stables and meet the horses. The ones most chosen by guests are Amigo, Machete, Petrush, Sultan, Amadeus, Amber, El Duque and Cyclon. These and the other horses in Las Cascadas’ stables are all gelded Mexican quarter horses mixed with criollos, the small native animal. A firm admirer of “Horse Whispering” training for her horses, Ursula has a stable of well mannered animals that are remarkably responsive to the rein, tolerant of beginners, yet spirited enough to satisfy the most experienced rider. Ursula or one of her assistants accompanies every group ride, keeping an eye on progress all the way and making fast rules that include assuring everyone’s preparedness before a group canter or gallop is initiated. You will be happy to know that all the horses speak English, German, and French in addition to their native Spanish. Everything is provided, and all you have to bring are your boots or hard soled shoes with heels, long pants (blue-jeans are good), a long sleeved shirt, a hat, and sunscreen.

All-day rides are highlighted with tasty and inventive picnic lunches. Las Cascadas staff has traveled ahead to a shady glen, a cooling brook, or grassy hillside to prepare the table and chill the wine or offer some Tequila Excelente. This is a welcome respite for hungry and tired riders halfway through a full day in the saddle. Only the singing of birds or the rushing sound of the brook can be heard as background to the conversation over lunch.

With more than 7,000 acres to roam around in the valley, trail rides vary from open savannah to small climbs up rolling hills to rocky descents into heavily wooded ravines and across gentle streams and can last from several hours to all-day excursions to local villages and special scenic destinations. Several working ranches as well as the ruins of haciendas dating back to pre revolution times are available for Ursula’s riders to explore. Trail rides are not nose-to-tail single file events, and free rides are encouraged, except when descending steep and rocky inclines.

Excursiones:

For both riders and non riders, multiple side excursions can be arranged to interesting locales for sightseeing, shopping, and experiencing some of the archaeological sights and many traditional holidays for which Mexico is famous.

Arqueología: Tula

A short twenty-minute car ride from Rancho Las Cascadas to the city of Tula and its famous Toltec ruins is a morning well spent discovering ancient Mexico before the arrival of the Aztec culture. In fact, the old Aztec histories claim the Toltecs as their admired ancestors. The vast Toltec empire extended from what is now New Mexico in the United States to Costa Rica in Central America. There is a legend that Tula, the capitol was a city of grand palaces decorated with gemstones of jade, turquoise, of gold and the brightly colored feathers of the Quetzal bird. Unfortunately, this shining city disappeared long ago, but its ruins attest to its greatness.

For the visitor today, the first sight of pyramid B capped with towering columns sculpted in the form of giant warriors silhouetted against the incredible blue of the Mexican sky echo the sophistication of this ancient culture. Patches of images in color remain on the wall showing snakes eating human skeletons. It is just a small indication as a reminder to us that the Toltecs eventually ruled as a brutal military empire.

Fiestas:

Located in rural Mexico, Rancho Las Cascadas is well situated to enjoy the many feast, celebrations and carnivals that fill the Mexican calendar as they are celebrated in the old traditional ways.

One of the country’s most celebrated holidays is the Day of the Dead or All Hallow’s Eve (Halloween) that takes place in late October, and early November and actually lasts several days. It is a time for all families to honor and commune with loved ones who have died. In nearby Tepotzotlan, it is a joyful celebration full of life and color, fireworks and foods, sugary candies and gifts, and it is all centered in the tree shaded Zócalo in the shadow of the cathedral,  glowing with votive candles, orange Marigold flowers scattered everywhere, life size skeletons in humorous poses at every turn.

Another face of the Day of the Dead takes place in nearby Jilotepec in the large secluded cemetery. Early in the morning people on their way to pay their respects to departed relatives and friends climb a road heaped on both sides with hundreds of flower. They progress toward the cemetery gate buying from the flower vendors and carrying on their shoulders bunches of the favored orange marigolds, purple cockscombs, white baby’s breath and violet iris. Stalls line the dirt pathway to the gate with tables heaped with mounds of pecans, walnuts, almonds, and sunflower seeds, and fresh cut sugar cane from nearby fields. In the air is the aroma of the sweet Day of the Dead bread decorated with names of loved ones, and the pungent aroma of cooking tamales and enchiladas tingle the nostrils. On the graves are photographs of the deceased along with little dishes of bread, honey sweets and perhaps a bottle of Tequila. It is all a celebration of life and an acceptance of death as a continuation of the process, a joyfull time and not a time for weeping.

Then, every Friday there is the weekly market in the nearby town of Jilotepec  where a shopper can find anything and everything--from cowboy boots to glazed pottery, wood carvings to traditional embroidered blouses.

Las Cascadas staff is tuned in to the events and folklore of the area, and encourages and assists guests in discovering these treasures for themselves. Rancho Las Cascadas drivers will take interested guests to town for a few hours or a full day of shopping. 

Contact Information:
E-mail= uschi@ranchomex.com
Web= http://www.ranchomex.com

Photo Credits: Rod Lopez-Fabrega, Mary Ashcraft, Rancho Las Cascadas

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