At Love & War in Texas, Food and Music Keep the Peace
by Autumn Rhea Carpenter
 Texas
theme restaurants often teeter dangerously along the line that divides
country from kitsch. One too many lace curtains, peanut shell covered floors
and cheating hearts songs on the jukebox can send an eatery into the theme
park purgatory. During a recent outing to Love & War in Texas Plano (L&W), I
discovered that Texas fare includes much more than deep-fried meat covered
in cream gravy. The restaurant offers a culinary tour of the Lone Star state
with a traditional flair that almost alleviates the cowboy cliché.
L&W Plano recently celebrated its 10-year anniversary;
its younger sister facility, located in Grapevine, has been in business
since 2004. Owners and childhood friends, Tye Phelps and Travis Shull,
brainstormed the Texas concept during a summer trip down the Frio River.
Phelps climbed the ranks from busboy to cook in the family restaurant and
also worked for Brinker International. "I grew up in the restaurant
business," said Phelps. "I love Texas, Texas food and Texas music, so I
wanted to open a real Texas place, not a Six Flags type place that isn't
even based out of Texas. Our motto is Texas food, made by Texans."
 The
native and adaptive landscaping surrounds L&W's entrance, offering respite
from the usual urban trappings. Upon arrival, antler chandeliers hang from
the cedar wood ceilings and light bounces off of the colorful stained glass
windows. It's Grandma's house meets honky tonk, with comfortable booths
decorated with Texas maps and Willie Nelson softly crooning in the
background.
 With
the informed wait staff, a patron can easily learn how to pair a Texas wine
with particular meat or can coerce a party to sample an exotic meal, such as
wild boar. The menu is divided into the various areas of Texas, including
the crossroads of Texas, the Border, West Texas High Plains, East Texas
Piney Woods, Hill Country and the Texas Gulf Coast. According to Phelps, the
Border Region includes items like fajitas, which have a Mexican influence
but were invented in Texas. The West Texas High Plains represent the cattle
drives so steaks are listed there. "The Hill Country is really diverse, "
said Phelps. "There is a heavy German influence, mixed with all of the wild
game, including quail, venison, buffalo and wild boar that are blended in
German and Austrian recipes. The seafood and Cajun influence is represented
in the Gulf Coast area, and who hasn’t passed a roadside BBQ joint in East
Texas? People call me 'Chef Tye' but I would not want to insult those chefs
who worked their butts off through school. I’m not a chef – just a guy who
knows what Texans like to eat."
Voted number one in Dallas, the restaurant's burger is
a top seller. Other popular choices include the bone-in Cowboy Ribeye,
chicken-fried steak, beef ribs and wild game mixed grill. "Tourists,
especially at our Grapevine location, are very impressed not only with our
diverse menu, but also with our state's diverse geography and varied
recipes," said Phelps. "Many visitors think that we all line dance and our
favorite song is “’Country Road’" by John Denver. We have to set the record
straight."
 The
establishment often spreads its Texas cheer on the road with catered events.
"We handled the opening of the Fort Worth Zoo’s Texas Wild portion," said
Phelps. "This part of the zoo contains all five regions of Texas, just like
our menu. Over 2,000 Fort Worth VIPS attended the event. We also catered the
Swedish Ambassadors birthday at Addison Airport for 1,000 people. We
doll it up Texas Style, with a chuck wagon and Texas entertainment. We can
do the whole shebang!"
We sampled the grilled shrimp Texana, from the Texas
Gulf Coast section, with fresh Texas gulf shrimp, tossed in a chipotle
pepper, lime and black pepper marinade, grilled and served with Texican
Rice™, grilled vegetables and Texas caviar (also known as black eyed peas.)
From the East Texas Piney Woods section, we sampled the Big Tex chicken
fried chicken served with garlic mashed potatoes and smoked corn on the cob
and smothered in cream gravy. Both meals were delicious, satisfying and put
us both in a temporary stupor, filled with home-cooked comfort food.
 Testosterone
definitely prevails in the bar section, but fellow restaurant goers are as
varied as the menu, ranging from bar regulars, tourists sporting sparkly
pink hats, hipsters and families.
Once our appetites were sated, it was time to enjoy L&W's famed live
music. The outdoor area allows space for a stage, bar and dance floor as
well as several wood picnic tables, giving it a relaxed outdoor appeal. Its
stage has been graced by many talented acts including Miranda Lambert,
Cross-Canadian Ragweed, Randy Rogers, Radney Foster, POCO, Pure Prairie
League, Chris Knight, Gary P Nunn, Ray Wylie Hubbard and Jack Ingram.
"Music plays an important part of L&W," said Phelps.
"Texans are a proud group, and their music is no different. We don’t offer
that Nashville pop country here – it’s genuine music. From Willie to Don
Henley, we have had more influence on music that any other part of the
world."
 With
the stage adjacent to a railroad track, alternative/country musician Ben
Smith and his band sang a few fun cover songs, from Tom Petty and Steve
Miller's various collections. While singing Lynyrd Skynyrd's "Gimme Three
Steps" a train rushed by the stage and the conductor laid on the horn,
competing with the band's efforts for a full minute. It was an authentic
moment not likely to happen at an orchestrated indoor venue. Ben Smith
quickly recovered, claiming that's what made performing at L&W interesting.
"L&W audiences are always eclectic, supportive and spirited," said Smith.
"It's become the premiere place to hear original Texas music."
As the margarita-fueled night continued, 27-year-old
Smith performed more original works, influenced by Jack Johnson, John Mayer,
Pat Green and Jack Ingram. Each soulful song inspired the audience to
shuffle feet, shimmy shoulders and admire the towering Smith rocking on
stage. "Rearview," "Miles of Texas," and "River Road," were a few original
works Smith shared on Saturday night.
 L&W
gets its religion by hosting the Narrow Trail Cowboy Church on Sundays.
According to their Web site, the church is reaching out to those within our
culture who normally won't set foot in a church, except for weddings and
funerals. If you're coming to L&W on a Saturday night to hear a band play,
maybe you'd feel comfortable showing up on Sunday, sitting in exactly the
same spot, and, quite possibly, hearing the same performer sing gospel. If
that brings more people to the Lord, then we're doing our job. Consequently,
if you're sporting work boots, cowboy hats, blue jeans or even a serious
hangover - you're our kind of folks! The patrons at L&W are like a big
family. For some, those folks are family. Others just come by for food,
drink and music from time to time. L&W is one of the most popular
restaurants, bars and live music venues around. The atmosphere is relaxed,
Texan and authentic. It is a place you can just be yourself, just like
Narrow Trail."
Another Sunday staple at Love & War is the two-hour
live radio concert called Shiner Sundays on 95.3 KHYI, The Range. "It is the
most listened-to concert in the world," said Phelps. "It's like the radio
version of Austin City Limits. We love the station and al that it
represents; we've hosted the series for the last nine years."
 L&W is
a venue where stereotypes and culinary surprises collide for a savory,
wholesome meal and powerful live music that would even make your Texas
Grandma smile.
Love & War in Plano
601 E. Plano Pkwy
|
Plano, TX 75074
972.422.6201
Love & War in Grapevine
2505 E. Grapevine Mills
Circle
Grapevine, TX 76051
972.724.5557
www.loveandwarintexas.com
Ben Smith
http://www.benfrickinsmith.com
KHYI
http://www.khyi.com/
The Narrow Trail Cowboy Church
http://www.narrowtrail.org/
Images provided by Love & War Texas Music Community Web
site:
http://loveandwarintexas.ning.com/
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