El Salvador Guatemala Trip:
From 21st Century Resort To A Medieval
City
by Habeeb Salloum
 During
our few days at the Decameron Salinitas, El Salvador’s only seaside luxury
resort, we had gloried in its many 21st century facilities and relaxed in
its serene atmosphere. Now we
were leaving this huge tourist paradise for La Antiqua or Antiqua –
Guatemala’s ancient capital and one of the oldest cities established by the
Spaniards in the New World. I was upbeat thinking of this trip from the
ultra-modern to a medieval world of the past.
Half asleep we stumbled into our bus in the morning
darkness. “This trip better be worthwhile!”, one of my fellow passengers
remarked as we settled down in our seats.
I half smiled. For me his words did not ring a bell. For many years I
had yearned to make a trip to Guatemala and explore La Antiqua and its rich
history.
We followed the flat coastline on a two-lane highway
through a tree-filled landscape until we reached the Guatemala border. In
less than an hour of our departure we crossed the Rio Paz, marking the
border between El Salvador and Guatemala.
 At the
customs post, it could have been the same scene from the early past at a
Canadian-American border point. Travelers, truck drivers and custom
officials were milling about, seemingly in a chaotic fashion. While I stood
at the window waiting to have my passport checked, the custom official was
playing solitaire on his computer. Apparently his card game was more
important than the people standing in line and we had to wait.
Back on the bus, my seat companion, surveying the scene
remarked: “It looks like the same land. The people look the same and they
speak the same language, and I understand that they practice the same
religion. Why are they two small countries?” The young man had a point. The
half a dozen tiny Central American countries, labeled in North America as
‘Banana Republics’ had the hands of corrupt army generals and foreign
intervention in their creation and exploitation – this is especially true
when it relates to U.S. fruit companies.
 Past
the border, we entered a hilly countryside covered in greenery. The road was
in much better condition than in El Salvador and the countryside looked
somewhat more prosperous. As well the roadsides were clean – devoid of
litter. Our guide explained that because tourism had come earlier to
Guatemala, the infrastructure had been improved and the country was well on
its way to becoming tourist friendly. On the other hand, it was only in 2004
that El Salvador had begun to concentrate on its tourist industry – hence
the difference.
We moved on quickly through a landscape dotted with
sugarcane fields. Compared to North America the road was almost devoid of
traffic. Soon the hills gave way to a level countryside overshadowed in the
distance volcanic mountains. This scene continued until we stopped in
Escuinta, a prosperous modern-looking town, at the Restaurante Parquero for
refreshments and a break in the journey.
 Continuing
upward in a valley we drove in the shadows of three volcanoes: two to the
left – one active called Fuego (fire) and the other named Acatenango; and
one on the right called Agua (Water). Now at some 1,500 m (4920 ft) above
sea level as the air became cooler I opened the window and breathed the
fresh air – feeling contentment. The landscape was now dotted with coffee
trees. Germans who came here before the First World War first introduced
coffee into the country.
 Passing
through Cuidad Vieja where the first cathedral in Central America was built
we entered La Antiqua – the first capital of Spanish Central America and
today one of the most visited places in Guatemala. It is one of the world’s
best-preserved colonial cities and for those enamored with history it oozes
allurement and magic. Its splendid Cathedral, convents and monasteries and
fine Moorish-inspired colonial architecture, set in captivating green hilly
surroundings give it a special enchantment. Travelers can experience the
splendor of colonial times in this once third most important Spanish
stronghold in the Americas.
 I
looked around and discovered that the streets were all cobblestone and that
the buildings were all built in Spanish colonial style and no more than two
stories high – today 90% of its buildings are owned by Americans. To me it
seemed that if one had lived in this town some 300 years ago and should
return today, not much would have changed. UNESCO declaring La Antiqua a
‘World Heritage Site’ in 1979 has done much to inspire the government to
preserve the town as a medieval Spanish city.
With Roberto our guide we began our tour of this
tourist-oriented city at Plaza Mayor. Here we stood by the impressive Fuente
de las Sirenas (Fountain of the Sirens), representing fertility, and watched
the water gush out of the breasts of the mermaids while Roberto related the
history of the city, which has a population of 41,000.
 Where
La Antiqua now stands saw Spanish presence in 1524 at the time when the
Conquistadors began to push forward their conquest of the Americas. They
established the city in 1543 as the capital of Spanish Central America,
which today includes all the Central American countries up to the borders of
Panama. In later centuries the
town was almost destroyed by the 1773 earthquake as well as later tremors.
Many of its splendid structures were never rebuilt and today remain in
ruins. The capital was moved to Guatemala City, 40 km (25 mi) away and La
Antiqua became fossilized - a living museum steeped in Spanish American
history.
 Continuing
our tour, we stopped first at the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) located on one
side of Plaza Mayor and still humming with activity as it has been for
hundreds of years then moved on to the opposite side of the Plaza to take
of Palacio de los Capitanes – an impressive reminder of Spain.
 The
Cathedral, with an impressive baroque façade with mannerist and renaissance
details, on the east side of the Plaza, was our most important stop. Most of
this huge Cathedral remains in ruins. Only a small portion of the original
was rebuilt after the earthquake.
According to Roberto, as the earth shook, the priest saw the people
gathered in front of the Cathedral trembling in fear. He advised them to
rush into the church and God would save them. Alas! Years later when some of
the ruins were being removed many skeletons were found. He did not say if
the priest had perished with his flock.
 After
examining a great deal of architecture remaining from Spanish times, we
ended our tour at the ruins of Las
Capuchinas (the Capuchin Convent). We toured the vestiges as Roberto
explained the harsh treatment the Mayan maidens had suffered when they were
forced to become nuns. He
pointed to the tiny cells where the young girls were punished when they
erred and then remarked, “The girls’ diet consisted of beans, corn and rice
year-round and only one day a year were they allowed to eat meat – on the
bishop’s birthday.”
The tale of these young girls is only a part of the
wrongs endured by the indigenous peoples of former Spanish America and who
still suffer today. Even though
60% to 70% of Guatemala’s current population are Mayan, they are not in the
seat of power and still suffer discrimination. In neighboring El Salvador in
the 1930’s, the indigenous inhabitants of the country were almost totally
wiped out by a series of exterminations under the dictator/general Maximiliano
Hernandez Martinez. Today according to our guide only 1% of the country’s
population is indigenous.
With Roberto’s description of the sad fate of the Mayan
maidens ringing in our ears, we walked to Las Antorchas Restaurant for an
excellent meal then stopped for a while at a jade factory specializing in
Mayan jade handicrafts. Soon
afterward, sated with both food and history we set out on our four-hour
return journey. As I relaxed in my comfortable seat, I reflected on our day
of exploration. It was a day of discovery travel and historic exhilaration
intermixed with historic sadness – all in all a fulfilling journey.
IF YOU GO
Facts about Guatemala and El Salvador:
Both Guatemala and El Salvador require passports valid
for at least six months for nationals from all countries, but for nationals
from Canada, the USA and a number of other countries visas are not required
for short stays.
The currency of Guatemala is the Quetzal – 1. US Dollar = 7.8
Guatemalan Quetzal. In El
Salvador the US dollar has been the legal currency since 2001.
For hotels in La Antiqua, check this website:
http://www.smartstays.com/la-antigua-guatemala/
Most of the food in both Guatemala and El-Salvador are
similar to the well-known Mexican cuisine. Cost of meals - budget: US$3-8;
mid-range to deluxe: US$8-30 or more.
Most restaurants add a 10 percent tip to the bill but
some tipping is expected. Tip bellboys and chambermaids about US$1. per day
per person; tour guides, US$3-5 per day per person.
With more than 75
Spanish language schools, La Antigua is among Latin America's best cities in
which to study Spanish. As well these schools have options to stay with
families.
The nightlife in La Antiqua is varied and exciting.
Bars, discos and pubs open every day and are excellent places to meet people
from all around the world.
Students and tourists staying in La Antiqua have many
choices for trips outside the city such as visiting coffee and macadamia
farms and nearby colorful villages.
The best time to visit both Guatemala and San Salvador
is during the dry season, from November to April.
However, the weather is pleasant year-round – Guatemala is labeled
‘Land of Eternal Spring’.
Remember a $33. Departure Tax is applicable when
leaving Guatemala and a $32.15 Departure Tax is applicable when leaving El
Salvador.
Some of the Other Important Tourist Attractions
in La Antiqua:
Church of La Merced, originally built in 1548, it
features an intricately patterned yellow and white baroque-styled facade.
Inside the ruins of the once-attached monastery stands the enormous Fuente
de Pescados (Fountain of the Fish).
Casa K'ojom, a museum focusing on Mayan music,
ceremonies, related artifacts and handicraft as well as musical instruments
of the pre-Colonial era and those introduced by the Spaniards.
Universidad de San Carlos, founded in 1676 and housing
the Museo de Arte Colonial, it is considered one of the most beautiful,
intact examples of colonial architecture featuring a fine courtyard
surrounded by Moorish arches.
For More Information, Contact:
In Guatemala: Guatemala Tourist
Office
7a Avenida 1-17
zona 4, Centro Cívico
Guatemala City,
Guatemala
Postal Address: Apartado postal 1020-A, 001004 Guatemala City,
Guatemala.
Tel: +502 (0)
331 1333. Fax: +502 (0) 331 4416.
Email: inguat@guate.net
In El Salvador:
Corporación Salvadorea de Turismo,
Blvd. del
Hipódromo #508
Col. San Benito, San Salvador, El Salvador.
Tel: +503
243-7835. Fax: +503 243-0427.
Email: corsatur@salnet.net
Web site:
http://www.elsalvadorturismo.gob.sv/
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