St. Joseph, Missouri

Journey back to the Victorian Era

by Marilyn Jones

St. Joseph, Missouri has many stories to tell. The Pony Express was founded here. Jesse James lived and died here. Even “Detroit’s” Rapper Eminem was born in St. Joseph.

Another chapter you’ll discover as you travel along quiet residential streets is there was money and commerce in this Missouri River town during the 1800s. One after another, Victorian mansions line up like sentinels guarding their city’s rich heritage. Fortunately many have been restored and are open for tour and other commercial ventures.

History

It was French trapper Joseph Robidoux who founded St. Joseph in 1826. He named the community after his patron saint. The city quickly grew to become one of the most important commerce and trade locations for the western continent. Early on it had the advantage of transportation and communication.

During the Victorian era, St. Joseph was a major manufacturing center. Products such as Aunt Jemima Pancake Mix, Premium Saltine Crackers and St. Joseph's Aspirin are just a few of the products first produced in St. Joseph.

This vast wealth in manufacturing and wholesale trade is reflected in the city's extraordinary architecture. Architects working in the city studied at the finest schools in Europe and America. Their works in St. Joseph reflect the heights of fashion and design of the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Wyeth-Tootle Mansion

After developing a successful wholesale-retail business, William Wyeth, and his wife Eliza, hired architect E. J. Eckel to design their home — a 43 room, Gothic style mansion.

The Wyeths decorated the interior of their 1860 home with ornate parquet floors and walnut woodwork. The front part of the house, which has the sandstone exterior, was the family residence. The rear extension with the brick exterior housed the kitchen, pantries and servants’ quarters.

On the first floor, large rooms opened into a central hall and were used mainly for entertaining. The second floor contained bedroom suites, and the third floor served as servant workrooms and bedrooms.

In 1887, the home was sold to Mrs. Kate Tootle, the widow of a successful businessman. After purchasing the home, she redecorated the interior adding two stained-glass windows on the stairway landings. The ceilings were covered with canvases of Austrian artists.

When Kate’s son, Milton Tootle Jr., occupied the home, he and his wife Lillian added a large porch and a family dining room. They changed the rooms on the first floor to reflect a French reception room of black and gold woodwork, a Louis the XVI sitting room with angels painted on the ceiling, a Moorish room with Middle Eastern decor, and an early American family dining room.

When Milton Tootle, Jr., died in 1946 the home was purchased by the city and private donations to be used as a public museum. After 60 years as a museum, the first floor of the building is being restored to its Victorian grandeur and furnishings are being added.

Photographs of the home taken around 1900 are on exhibit. The second floor features a restored Victorian bedroom and exhibits portraying aspects of St. Joseph history including exhibits on the Civil War in St. Joseph, and the life and death of Jesse James. The third floor contains exhibits on the natural history of the area.

Patee House Museum

The Patee House was completed in 1858, a 140-room luxury hotel. It was one of the best-known hotels west of the Mississippi River.

Since the Civil War, Patee House has served as a hotel three times, a female college twice and a shirt factory for more than 80 years until 1963 when it was turned into a museum.

Patee House Museum features two full floors of exhibits including an 1877 railroad depot, stagecoach, cars, trucks, fire trucks, wagons, buggies and carriages, a horse-drawn hearse, dressmaker's shop, model railroads, antique furniture and toys, and a wing with Western art by artist George Warfel.

Visitors can stroll down the 1860s-1880s Streets of Old St. Jo and look in on the dentist office of Dr. Walter Cronkite, father of the television news commentator, operate the toy carousel and Ferris wheel in the antique toy shop, check out the merchandise at the general store and visit a middle class Victorian home.

On the second floor, there are antique telephones and radios, a wagon-maker's blacksmith shop, antique furniture, sleighs and the gallows from the Buchanan County jail.

Patee House is St. Joseph's only National Historical Landmark for having served as headquarters for the Pony Express in 1860. It was here that Pony Express operators had their main office, and it was at Patee House where Pony Express riders stayed.

During the Civil War the Union Army took over the hotel, and in 1882 outlaw Jesse James was shot and killed a block up the street. The next day the family stayed at the hotel while it served as the center of the investigation of James’ death.

JC Wyatt House

Built in 1891 for John Cavan Wyatt, the JC Wyatt house is a visual record of how affluent families lived in 19th century St. Joseph. Today, in addition to the truly remarkable surroundings is a truly remarkable restaurant.

Executive Chef Jeffrey Keyasko and Event Planner Jim Pallone restored this Victorian beauty, filled it with period antiques and created a one-of-a-kind dining experience.

Lunch selections include Chicken Salad and Broccoli Cheddar Quiche with side salad and roasted sweet potatoes; Roasted Salmon with side salad and roasted sweet potatoes; and Grilled Chicken Asian Salad with grilled chicken breast, ginger sesame dressing, sliced fresh orange, bell pepper and crispy noodles.

Dinner selections include Pork Tenderloin Medallions, gingered carrots and cherry demi-glace; Chicken Marsala with mashed potatoes and fresh vegetable; and Filet Mignon with mashed potatoes and fresh vegetable.

Lunch and dinner are by reservation only.

Home tours are also available by calling the reservation line at (816) 676-1004.

Museum Hill Bed and Breakfast

After a long day of taking in the sites, why not cap off your Victorian adventure at Museum Hill Bed and Breakfast, a National Historic District property.

Overlooking beautiful downtown St. Joseph, guests are invited to relax and enjoy late 19th century architecture and hospitality.

The guest library contains a variety of books for leisure reading and a TV/VCR for movie entertainment. Innkeepers John and Beth Courter also keep menus from all the restaurants in St. Joseph and can point you in the right direction for attractions and antique shopping.

Museum Hill has many comfortable settings to enjoy reading, resting and conversation. In addition to the upstairs library there is a very large great room with an antique upright piano and a formal dining area.  Guests also share an upstairs kitchen complete with snacks and beverages.

To top off your visit and start your next day of exploring St. Joseph, Beth serves up a full hearty breakfast served on fine china.

You can also visit the bed and breakfast and take a tour of the home. This is by appointment only.

If you go:

Wyeth-Tootle Mansion – 1100 Charles Street. For more information call 1-800-530-8866 or check the website at www.stjosephmuseum.org/wyeth_tootle.htm.

Patee House Museum – 1202 Penn Street. For more information call (816) 232-8206 or check the website at www.ponyexpressjessejames.com.

JC Wyatt House – 1309 Felix Street. For more information and restaurant reservations call (816) 676-1004 or check the website at www.jcwyatt.net/index.html

Museum Hill Bed and Breakfast – 1102 Felix Street. For more information call (816) 387-9663 or check the website at www.museumhill.com/

For more information about St. Joseph attractions, accommodations and restaurants, call 800-785-0360 or check the website at www.stjomo.com.