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An array of Chardonnay

By Darryl Beeson

Chardonnay is the popular grape for white wine sipping. It is a blank canvas for the wine maker. Oak, butter, crispness and other elements can be splashed upon the canvas in ways that no other white wine grape allows. The following are great examples.

Calera Chardonnay, Central Coast 2002
Price $14
Rating 91
Aromas of apple, other tree fruit and tempered oak are followed by flavors of pear, apple, creamy and complex spice. Josh Jensen's wine maker mentors in Burgundy were adamant that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay must be grown in limestone-rich soils. Learn more at www.calerawine.com.

Chateau St. Jean "Robert Young Vineyard" Chardonnay, Alexander Valley 2002
Price $36
Rating 87
The nose is gentle with hazelnut and hints of toasted oak. The sip is huge with spicy oak, to this reviewer, out of balance with the wonderful vineyard's fruit. Tucked in a shelter cove at the northern end of Sonoma County's Alexander Valley Robert Young Vineyard has a long history of growing superior Chardonnay in its fine alluvial loam soils. Visit www.stjean.com for the rest of the story.

Clos du Val Chardonnay, Carneros 2003
Price $21
Rating 94
The aromas are rich with tropical and balanced oak nuances. The sip begins with apple, pear and tropical melon, then followas with citrus and toasty, well-balance oak in the long finish. Clos Du Val became one of the first wineries to stake a claim on some of the finest hillside land in the cool-climate region of Carneros, purchasing 180 acres in 1973. More to discover at www.closduval.com

Columbia Winery "Wyckoff Vineyard" Chardonnay, Yakima Valley 2003
Price $18.99
Rating 93
Refined aromas of apple, ripe melon and toasty hazelnut lead the way. The oak is well in balance. The sip is crisp and creamy with tropical fruit and interesting spice notes throughout the long length. Wine maker and Master of Wine David Lake is a genius. His wines prove the point. More details are at www.columbiawinery.com.

Delicato Chardonnay, California 2004
Price $7.99
Rating 88
The nose has an element of citrus-based perfume. There are flavors of apple, pear and spice, with balanced nuances of oak. Go to www.delicato.com for the rest of the story.

Goundrey "Offspring" Chardonnay, Western Australia 2003
Price $16
Rating 87
The nose smells of freshly sawed oak, with a touch of apple. The sip is packed with baked apple, cinnamon and lots of oak flavors. Visit www.goundrey.com to find out more.

Hanzell Chardonnay, Sonoma 2002
Price $55
Rating 96
In its youth it is filled with the sharp signature of the chardonnay grape: pear, pineapple, citrus, green apple. Also present when young is a steely, minerally quality and bright citrus crispness. As the chardonnay matures it gains nuances of sweet pear, honey, ripe apple, vanilla, hazelnut, smoke, and toasted almond. Additional history is found at www.hanzell.com.

Kenwood Reserve Chardonnay, Sonoma 2004
Price $20
Rating 93
"Note the forward nose of red apple, citrus blossom and vanilla, with just a hint of cream in the background," suggests wine maker Pat Henderson. "Lush, rich mouthfeel frames bold apple, lemon and vanilla favors. The full fruit and viscous texture are balanced by generous acidity, evident in the fresh, lingering mineral-laced finish." Visit www.kenwoodvineyards.com to learn more.

Lake Sonoma Chardonnay, Russian River 2004
Price $16
Rating 91
Forward green apple aromas combine with delicate vanilla to give the 2004 Lake Sonoma Russian River Valley Chardonnay's uncommon appeal from the first swirl and
sniff.

Lieb Chardonnay, North Fork 2003
Price $16.99
Rating 89
The nose is subtle with apple. The sip is lean and crisp with no oak elements. There is a dab of butter in the flavor profile along with citrus. The blend contains 10% Pinot Blanc. This white shows restraint in the use of oak, resulting in a better food wine. Learn more at www.liebcellars.com. New York is a state to watch for potentially great wine making.

Lieb Reserve Chardonnay, North Fork 2002
Price $20
Rating 91
The nose is soft with hints of hazelnut butter, marzipan, spiced apple and other tree
fruit. The sip is crisp apple with well balanced, subtle oak.

Pine Ridge "Dijon Clones" Chardonnay, Carneros 2003
Price $27
Rating 94
Crisp aromas of apple, tropical fruit and well-balanced oak are in the nose. Hazelnut and vanilla are in the toasty nose. Tree fruit, nut toffee and more tropical fruit merge with exotic spice in the long length.

Sebastiani Chardonnay, Sonoma 2003
Price $13
Rating 92
The nose is complex with crisp apple, tropical fruit, and malted nuances.  Aromas of new oak are well in balance. The sip is chewy and complex with flavors of apple butter, hazelnut, crisp citrus and ripe mango in the good length finish. More to know is at www.sebastiani.com.

Sequoia Grove Chardonnay, Carneros 2003
Price $18
Rating 93
Crisp aromas of grapefruit and apple are in the nose. The sip rewards with rich, ripe apple,toasty hazelnut, grapefruit and bright citrus through the long length. Learn more at www.sequoiagrove.com.

Simi "Reserve" Chardonnay, Russian River 2003
Price $25
Rating 89
The nose leads with vanilla. The sip is firm with vanilla from the oak, then followed
by flavors of apple and pear. Learn more at www.simiwinery.com.

St. Supery Chardonnay, Napa 2002
Price $18.50
Rating 90
"Intense aromas of nutmeg, honey, ripe apple and pear burst from the glass.  A mouthful of this delicious chardonnay brings flavors ranging from pear, tangerine, fig and spicy oak. The wine is rich, round and has a silky texture that makes it a pleasure to drink," says wine maker Michael Beaulac.
Details are at www.stsupery.com.

Toasted Head Chardonnay, California 2003
Price $14
Rating 92
There are aromas of citrus, crisp apple and delicate oak. The sip is chewy with apple,
lemon and resounding, but balanced, oak in the long complete finish.

Trefethen Chardonnay, Napa 2003
Price $28
Rating 93
The nose is lean. The sip is rich, almost chewy. Flavors of ripe pear, apple, apple butter and subtle oak lead the way. Nuances of roasted nuts and stone fruit close out the long, complex length. More details are at www.trefethen.com.

Veramonte Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley 2003
Price $8.99
Rating 90
Subtle aromas of floral and tropical within honey and toasty oak. Flavors of tropical fruit and crisp acidity, then subtle oak and spice within the good length on the palate. Visit www.veramonte.com to learn more.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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