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Take a chance, buy France

By Darryl Beeson

The battle between French wine producers versus the New World producers continues. Below are some French wine values to try.

Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Brut, N.V.
Price $57                    
Rating 94
This crisp and complex sparkler is a classic example of well-made Champagne. Crystalline, jewel-like firmness and immense mealy depth give this sparkler a Krug-like profile nearly unique among Blanc de Blancs.

Champagne Geoffroy Cuvee Reserve Brut, N.V.
Price $56                    
Rating 93
This is a father-son domaine producing Champagnes of the utmost integrity. Once the grapes are harvested, Geoffroys press in a traditional Coquard press, slow and gentle, but rarely seen any more because of its low productivity and the physically taxing work it entails.

Champagne Jean Milan Carte Blanche Brut, N.V.
Price $55                    
Rating 93
A wonderful discovery in the heart of the Côte de Blancs. Champagnes of marvelous purity and focus, with  pencil-y minerality beneath the purest of fruit.

Champagne Henri Billiot Reserve Brut, N.V.
Price $63                    
Rating 94
100% Grand Cru, particularly satisfying Pinot Noir here. Fresh, bracing red-grape Champagnes with long, swollen midpalate flavors. Just 5 hectares in size, so availabilities are scarce.

Champagne Charton Taillet Cuvee Ste. Anne Brut, N.V.
Price $50                    
Rating 93
For some reason, a consistent standout in blind tastings. The basic wine is keen and racy, and the upper-end wines are virtually luscious, being so brioche-y and creamy.

Champagne Gaston Chiquet Tradition Carte Verte Brut, N.V.
Price $52                    
Rating 93
Yeast and brioche lead in the first sip. This is a smaller producer to watch.

Moillard Sauvignon Blanc sur lie, Languedoc 2004
Price $12.99               
Rating 89
Very aromatic with citrus and melon, there are flavors of mineral, crisp citrus and melon.

Moillard Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy 2004
Price $19.99               
Rating 88
The sip is bright with citrus and complex mineral.

Moillard Rully Blanc, Chalonnaise 2004
Price $23.99               
Rating 88
The nose is crisp and complex. There are bright flavors of citrus, apple, melon and subtle mineral.

Moillard "Domaine Greffet" Pouilly Fuisse, Macon 2004
Price $26.99               
Rating 89
The nose shows citris, fig and crisp apple. There are full-bodied flavors of crisp apple, lemon and more hints of fig.

Moillard Borgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy 2003
Price $21.99               
Rating 88
There are aromas of ripe red fruit and spice. The sip offers red cherry, subtle herb and soft mineral in the medium length on the palate.

Moillard Savigny les Beaune Rouge, 2003
Price $27.99               
Rating 88
The nose offers black cherry and wild spice. There are flavors of ripe cherry and complex mineral in the medium length on the palate.

Moillard "Les Violettes" Rouge, Cotes du Rhone
Price $10.99               
Rating 89
There is ripe plum with floral/spice in the nose. There are flavors of ripe plum, pepper and a hint of mineral/leather in the refreshing sip.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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