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Rhone, Rhone on the range

By Darryl Beeson

The oldest of the "noble" wine varieties, Syrah dates back to Roman times, when it was grown in France's Rhône Valley. A few famous Northern Rhône wines made from Syrah are Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Saint-Joseph and Cornas. In the southern Rhône, Syrah is blended with other varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault to make Châteauneuf-de-Pape. It is also used in many wines labeled Côtes-du-Rhône.

According to the "Rhone Rangers" organization www.rhonerangers.org , "there’s a new breeze blowing through the wine scene in the United States, a breath of fresh air from the south of France. Rhone-style wines, made from the same grapes that have flourished for centuries in France’s Rhone River Valley, have captured the imagination of winemakers and consumers alike." Many of the wineries, reviewed below, are active members of The Rhone Rangers. Others maybe should be members. Two French examples, truly from the Rhone, were thrown in for good measure.

Avila Syrah, Santa Barbara 2003
Price $13                    
Rating 90
Rich red fruit with creamy elements abound. Syrah is a red grape variety known for its spicy, peppery black fruit aromas, as well as a smokiness, perhaps with scents of leather.

Bink Syrah "Hawk's Butte" Syrah 2003
Price $40                    
Rating 89
Light and earthy, there red fruit nuances. The wine was aged for 22 months in approximately 30% new French Artisan oak (Allier forest) and 70% neutral (used French oak) barrels.

Bonterra Syrah, Mendocino 2003
Price $14.99               
Rating 93
The sip reveals good expression of fruit and character. Bonterra is loosely derived from French and Latin, meaning "good earth." Proof is here ib that organic can taste great.

Bridlewood Estate Syrah, Santa Ynez 2002
Price $39.99               
Rating 94
The flavors show ripeness and concentration. Complexity sings within the long length. The exact blend is 97% Syrah and 3% Petit Sirah.

Bridlewood Reserve Syrah, Santa Ynez 2003
Price $19.99               
Rating 93
The flavors are concentrated and layered with complexity. The exact blend is 93.1% Syrah, 3.6% Grenache, .9% Roussane and .8% Cinsaut.

Crane Lake Shiraz, California 2004
Price $5.99
Rating 84
The color is ruby and the flavors are of soft, ripe red fruit. Though not complex, this fun red wine is easy to enjoy. Serve with thick grilled burgers or gourmet pizza.

Chateau Mont-Redon Côtes du Rhône 2003
Price $13                    
Rating 87
The nose is earthy and very "Old World." The flavors are soft. Serve this delicate red with sauteed veal or with herbed chicken.

Columbia Winery Syrah, Columbia Valley 2002
Price $10                    
Rating 95
Rich red fruit both in the nose and within the sip, with leather and tobacco inthe long, complex length. Winemaker David Lake is deemed "Dean of Washington Winemakers."

Curtis Winery Syrah "Crossroads Vineyard" Santa Barbara 2003
Price $32                    
Rating 95
The Syrah from "Crossroads Vineyard" begins with aromas of black fruits and forest. The sip is concentrated with deep flavors of plum, black cherry and boysenberry, followed by notes of sandalwood, clove and black olive.

E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage, Northern Rhone 2000
Price $19                    
Rating 94
The nose is earthy like barnyard. The sip is complex with red fruit, delicate spice and hottish leather notes in the long length.

Fenestra Syrah, Livermore 2000
Price $15                    
Rating 95
The nose is expansive with classic syrah. The sip explodes with black pepper and red fruit.

Frey "Organic" Syrah, North Coast 2004
Price $12                    
Rating 86
The wine is fruit forward and delicate. This wine is a blend of grapes from the 25-year-old Butow Vineyard and Frey Vineyards of Redwood Valley.

Hogue Genesis Syrah, Washington State 2002
Price $13                    
Rating 94
The Genesis Syrah is selected from specific vineyards to emphasize luscious fruit and depth of color. Pair with stuffed manicotti in marinara sauce.

Jade Mountain Syrah, Monterey 2004
Price $18                    
Rating 93
Classic Syrah styling with red fruit and hints of leather/pepper. The exact blend is 85% Syrah, 8% Teroldago and 7% Grenache.

Jade Mountain Syrah "Snow Lake Vineyard" Lake County 2004
Price $21                    
Rating 92
Both red fruit and black fruit abound in the complex, layered sip. The blend is 100% Syrah. The oak aging was for nine months in neutral, older barrels.

Laetitia Syrah, Arroya Grande Valley 2004
Price $26                    
Rating 93
The sip arrives complex with black fruit, red fruit and classic leather nuances.

Lockwood Vineyards Syrah, Monterey 2004
Price $16.99               
Rating 93
The sip offers concentrated, complex fruit. The exact blend is 95% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec.

Morgan Syrah, Monterey 2003
Price $22                    
Rating 92
A very fruit forward red with an interesting nose. The alcohol level is 14.4%. The oak aging is 18 months with 25% being new. Dan Lee is the genius wine maker behind this wine.

Paraiso Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands 2003
Price $20                    
Rating 95
The sip is concentrated with complex layers, along with leather and pepper. The wine was aged for a year in seasoned oak.

Qupe Syrah "Bien Nacido Hillside Estate" Santa Maria Valley 2004
Price $25                    
Rating 95
The sip is concentrated with rich ripe fruit flavors and classic Syrah styling. In 1989 after a true learning experience at Zaca Mesa winery, Qupe wine maker Bob Lindquist joined forces with his mentor and friend, Jim Clendenen, of Au Bon Climat, together building a shared winery in the Bien Nacido Vineyard.

Tablas Syrah, Paso Robles 2003
Price $35                    
Rating 93
The flavors are rustic and restrained. Pair this rustic red with wild game or leg of lamb with plenty of bay leaves, rosemary and juniper berries.

Travieso "Amaranta" Syrah "Kirk's Vineyard" Santa Lucia Highlands 2003
Price $33                    
Rating 87
Interesting flavors, but a wild element distracts from the fruit and the Syrah complexities. Barrel aging is 25% new French oak for 24 months. There is 5% Sangeovese in the blend.

Trentadue Syrah, Alexander Valley 2003
Price $22                    
Rating 92
Soft red fruit with hints of tobacco. The blend is 100% Syrah. The barrel aging is 27% new French, American and European oak.

Wattle Creek Winery Shiraz, Alexander Valley 2001
Price $29                    
Rating 88
Tasting like it was aged in Bourbon barrels, the rich red fruit is very food friendly. Serve with fun, grilled foods.

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Darryl Beeson travels the world, looking for great wine values. He works as a sommelier and teaches for The International Sommelier Guild www.internationalsommelier.com.

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