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Need an (Un)-Reality Check?Jamaica’s All-Inclusives Make the Trip to Nirvana Worth the RideBy Katie McElveen
“Would the lady like another drink?” asks a melodic voice behind me. “No, thank you.” “Champagne perhaps? Or a planter’s punch?” Tempting. But it had been a long day, and there was a formal dinner planned for the evening. “No, thank you. But perhaps later.” “Of course. You just let us know. Anything you want, we’re happy to bring it to you.” Over the course of the next few days, it became wonderfully apparent just how true those words were.
Frank Rance is the former managing director of the SuperClubs, the resort group whose properties include Grand Lido, Breezes, Starfish and Hedonism resorts. He is often credited as one of the founding fathers of the genre, a group responsible for turning Club Med’s model into a fast-growing and much-copied segment. According to Rance, the all-inclusive concept was fueled in the beginning not by choice but by, ironically, a lack of it. “The mid-1970’s were troubling times for Jamaica,” he explains. “We had to work around some of the problems, such as difficulty getting specific food items and a brewing social unrest.” Realizing that guests would be disappointed if, for instance, items listed on the menus were unavailable, the menus were thrown out and the soon-to-be ubiquitous buffet tables appeared. And when ugly fences were torn down and replaced by wrought iron gates, the resorts began to look less like compounds and more like exclusive private estates. A new chapter in resort travel had begun. “All-inclusives take the bother out of holidays,” says Rance. “By removing the barriers, it becomes easier to be social.” And, since the early all-inclusives didn’t offer add-on services such as spa treatments, there were no cashiers. “We replaced them with volleyball instructors,” he smiles. Today, volleyball is just the tip of the iceberg, with resorts such as the Grand Lido Sans Souci and Royal Plantation offering nearly every beach and water sport under Jamaica’s sunny skies. Yet, the question remains: why even consider all-inclusive? For many travelers, part of the experience of an exotic locale, or any locale for that matter, is uncovering its hidden treasures. And while and exhaustive search for the best jerk chicken on the island does have its place, there is something surprisingly carefree about totally and completely checking out of the real world and into a place where no one raises and eyebrow when you give in to your inner child and order your entire dinner from the dessert menu. “An all-inclusive vacation is a great way to relax and spoil yourself,” says Lynda Maxwell, owner of Ellicott City-based Destinations, Inc. “Plus, since it is usually pre-paid, there’s no huge credit card bill looming when you get home.” Intellectually, it’s easy to comprehend the all-inclusive experience. One price, everything included. Food. Drinks. Even that harrowing drive to and from the airport. Check, double check, got it. But for someone who has always traveled on a budget (and who hasn’t), doing it is more fun than you’d ever expect. My first non-reality check comes just minutes after I enter the room and see the mini bar, which I usually use to chill bottles of water refilled from the bathroom sink. Certainly that couldn’t be included…could it? I call the room of a friend, another all-inclusive first timer, does she know? Together, we decide that since there were no prices anywhere it must be part of the deal. Excited, I open the door and, for the first time, have a totally guilt-free mini-bar drink. Actually, I have two. After that, it doesn’t take long to get into the groove. Without the fear of forgotten charges making their appearance at checkout, room service becomes an option to be seriously considered for any sudden craving. Sparkling water replaces tap. A friend orders cheesecake at midnight and no one bats an eye. And when a group of us have dinner at Le Papillon, Royal Plantation’s white-glove restaurant, we order white wine to go with our first courses and red to go with our entrees and don’t feel bad about not finishing either bottle. We do, however, finish every bite of chef Hugo Hirn’s delectable meal, which not only includes continental fare but a number of Jamaican specialties. “Jamaica has its own delicious cuisine,” chef Hirn tells me. “It would be a shame for people not to be able to try it.” When we weren’t eating, we kayaked, snorkeled and even rode gigantic water-tricycles. For the truly inspired, there is a fitness center, and golf is an option that is, of course, included. And at Royal Plantation, management wants you to try it all. With bottles of champagne chilling in silver bowls throughout the resort, and a staff that encourages guests to try their hand at a new sport, a new drink or a new taste, it’s oh so easy. Management heartily supports guests availing themselves of anything and everything. “If you have a lobster for dinner and feel like another, have it,” instructs general manager Mario Machado. “It’s wonderful.” It isn’t just the food that makes travelers feel like visiting dignitaries. Little luxuries and thoughtful touches such as lofty feather pillows, a phone call announcing that room service is on the way and a convenient cordless phone are welcome surprises that add to the feeling of extravagance. The staff, too, adds to the experience, offering service that is warm yet dignified, professional yet friendly. One lovely touch is the habit of introductions. All over Jamaica, people introduce themselves, and at Royal Plantation management seems to encourage this practice. Since most guests rarely leave the property and therefore see a great deal of the staff, it’s a friendly gesture that’s quite appropriate. The one thing Royal Plantation doesn’t include is the spa, which offers traditional services such as Swedish massage and aromatherapy facials as well as specialty treatments that include underwater massage and body masques full of exotic ingredients such as Moor mud, water lily or aloe vera. The spa is clean and comfortable and the staff warm and welcoming. Upon my arrival, Claudia, my spa therapist, introduces herself as if we were old friends reuniting after a long voyage. As she leads me back to the treatment room, she asks about my skin, my preferences, and what types of treatments I had experienced before. Armed with that knowledge, she proceeds with the treatment, a salt scrub designed to rid me of those pesky dry skin flakes and leave my winter-dry skin soft and smooth. After a quick shower (she made sure the water was the perfect temperature then quietly slipped out of the room), I’m ready for my massage. Already relaxed from the scrub, I’m an easy mark for Claudia’s expert hands and soon find myself suspended somewhere between bliss and heaven. Afterwards, I float up to my room and spend an hour watching the water, reading a novel and wishing every assignment could be this pleasant. Exploring the property later that day, I find that although it’s fairly compact, every inch is perfectly appointed and beautifully manicured, with lots of places to curl up with a book or a loved one and enjoy the breezes. Thanks to a $10 million renovation that was completed in 2001, everything shines with newness, from the glow of the mahogany that graces handrails and bars to the perfectly polished marble floors. With its Oriental rugs, dark wood furnishings and warm colors, Royal Plantation brings to mind an English manor house from the Colonial era. Just down the road from the Royal Plantation stands another luxury all-inclusive resort, the Grand Lido Sans Souci. A larger resort than the Royal Plantation property, the Grand Lido Sans Souci sprawls across, and often into, the dramatic granite cliffs that line this part of Jamaica’s shoreline. The result is a resort full of hidden nooks and crannies (some complete with hammocks) secret staircases and surprises around nearly every corner. With tuxedoed waiters shuttling wine and champagne between the many buildings, it’s a glamorous place where you’d expect to catch a glimpse of movie stars from another era ensconced in their private cabanas smoking long cigarettes. Inside, the stone floors and pale furnishings of the guest rooms are light and airy, reminiscent of the open feel of the resort itself. With treatment rooms built into cliffside gazebos, the Grand Lido Sans Souci spa takes full advantage of its very special location. Guests can choose to have treatments in a variety of outdoor environments, including open-air beachside “rooms” and private huts that offer fresh air and the sound of the ocean. The best part is that each guest, depending on length of stay, can take advantage of the spa at no extra charge. It’s a divine luxury. I only have time for a reflexology treatment, which is really a wonderfully glorified foot massage, but after an hour of exploring the resort on foot, I’m more than ready. Who would have known that lotions, potions and a pair of highly skilled hands could transform not only my feet but my mood so quickly. Reluctant to put my sand-filled shoes back on, I instead retire to the mineral pool for a quick soak. Far from compact, the resort’s garden trails lead visitors around the property where beach bars, mineral pools and grottoes are scattered about, just waiting to be discovered. There’s even a natural pool that’s home to Charlie, a 95-year old sea turtle whose daily appearance is something of a celebration. The fitness center is large and overlooks its own beach, motivation enough for an extra mile on the treadmill. On the other side of the resort, another trail loops around a lagoon filled with tropical birds, but watch the sign…one wrong turn (or right turn, depending on your preferences) and whoops, there you are at the resort’s own very private, but very nude, beach. Stumbling, fully clothed, onto the officially “clothing optional” beach, I am greeted by Lunette, a friendly hotel employee whose job is to keep voyeurs with cameras away. “This is the prettiest beach we have,” she whispers conspiratorially. “And it’s always quiet, mostly Europeans. If you want privacy, this is the place.” Like Royal Plantation, the food and service at Grand Lido Sans Souci are excellent. We feel welcome, and when we linger over dinner we are never rushed. As our trip progresses, we begin to feel less odd walking up to a bartender, asking for a drink, receiving it, and walking away with just a thank you. No one asks for a room key, there’s nothing to sign. No mental calculations about the bill at the end of the stay. The freedom is an unexpected pleasure, like spending found money or finding out that ice cream is actually calorie-free. There are dozens of all-inclusive resorts throughout
Jamaica, and they come in a size and price to meet nearly every budget. But
the biggest growth of this segment has been in attracting upscale travelers.
“As our resorts have Royal Plantation’s Machado agrees. “With Royal Plantation, our transition into the high-end market is going extremely well. Nearly a third of our guests at any time are return guests, they come back time and time again.” On the flight back home, I meet a couple from Baltimore returning from two weeks at Jamaica Inn, one of Jamaica’s smaller all-inclusives. It’s their eleventh trip to Jamaica, the tenth at Jamaica Inn. Their experience says it all. “We can’t imagine going anywhere else,” raves the husband. “We sit and do nothing but relax the whole time we’re here. It’s perfect and we can’t wait until next year.” I’m with them. As the first blast of icy air hits me as I exit BWI, I begin to count the days until my next trip to Jamaica. |
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After the slightly harrowing (Jamaican drivers play a
particularly nervy game of chicken) drive from Montego Bay airport to the
Beaches Royal Plantation in Ocho Rios, I’m more than ready for the Red
Stripe beer I’m offered as I exit the taxi. When it arrives only seconds
later, the icy bottle is accompanied by a chilled mug and a cooling scented
towel that wipes the day of travel off my face and hands. Sipping the beer,
I complete the check-in process while relaxing on a comfy sofa in the
breeze-filled Colonial-style parlor.
Like many of Jamaica’s resorts, the Royal Plantation
Golf Resort and Spa, which is owned by the Sandals chain, is all-inclusive.
But wait! They’ve changed! Where all-inclusive used to mean washing down
your steam table food with watery drinks while exchanging polite smiles
across the table with strangers from the buffet line, it now can mean
gourmet food, room service, restaurant choices, top shelf liquors and
offbeat, delicious wines. The service is gracious and even water sports are
included. 