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Tranquil Taquile
By Emily Nixon
Thin air blows over the Peruvian altiplano, and while
skimming the sapphire waters of the world's highest navigable lake, Lake
Titicaca, the motor boat emits a high-pitched squeal.
Following this four hour journey from Puno,
to the tranquil island of Taquile, we are faced with the daunting, but
rewarding, task of escalating the 500 plus uneven stone steps to the
island’s summit at 13,000 feet above sea level. Our dirt pathway en route is
adorned with stone archways and bordered by local children who run alongside
and cheer out words of encouragement.
We are immediately embraced by phenomenal
views that stretch as far as our eyes can see. From Taquile’s summit, I gaze
over the crystal clear waters of Lake Titicaca where this southeast portion
of Peru shares a segment of its shoreline with Bolivia, to the distant
mainland where the snow capped Andes create a surreal backdrop.
I am greeted by the welcoming jesters from the
Taquilenos and am surprised to find out that their dominant language is
still quechua. Although there is a growing trend of Spanish speaking
inhabitants among the younger generations this ancient language of the Inca
is still imbibed.
It wasn’t until the 1970’s that the Taquilenos opened
their island to the tourism industry, attracting adventure seekers, like
myself, in search of a reprieve from life’s hectic pace. And although this
island paradise doesn’t boast the typical all-inclusive resorts that lure
most pleasure seekers, (in fact there isn’t a single hotel room to be had on
this dreamscape) I soon discover it offers paradisiacal treasures of a
primitive kind. My forty-eight hour stay on the island gives me a quick, but
everlasting, memory of a utopic, slow-paced life style that is embodied by
the people of Taquile Island.
The accommodation on the island is
provided by a group of community members that billet out rooms in their
homes. Although I find these rooms modest at best, they offer a comfortable
night’s sleep in a traditional adobe house. In spite of the language
barrier, the hospitality is gracious, my hosts are most generous, and my
needs are met, including extra wool blankets to ward off the chilly altiplano night air.
The island is also outfitted with a couple of
restaurants. Even though my billet family offers me dinner with the cost of
the room, I choose to have a night on the town and experience some of the
Taquile cuisine. With all amenities located centrally, the restaurants are
within walking distance of the homestead area. They offer a basic menu of
two different meals that reflect the local cuisine, consisting of either
chicken or lake trout. I opt for the tout, and am treated to a medley of
local tastes prepared in traditional Peruvian style.
Taquile Island’s natural beauty and fascinating culture
are the alluring attributes for its many tourists. Being far from the major
urban centers, stars illuminate the clear night skies and provide a superb
light show, a rare treat city dwellers like myself.
Taquilenos also take pride in their cultural roots and
there is a strong emphasis within the community to still wear many
traditional textiles, such as ch’ullus. These hats, worn by men, symbolize
their marital status and are interwoven with a magnificent spectrum of
colours.
Like all small towns throughout Peru, Taquile Island
has a thriving market where the islanders sell their wares. For generations
the textiles and weavings have been regarded as among the best in Peru. The
market place also provides an excellent source of income for the indigenous
people who produce these items. It’s hard to leave without at least one or
two textiles or weavings. And as I prepare to depart, I realize that my
backpack has gained a few pounds.
Although it’s a much simpler task to
descend the 500 stairs when it comes time to leave, saying goodbye to this
paradise is not. As I board the boat and make my way back on the four hour
journey to the lake shore town of Puno, the sun is beginning to set. I watch
the deep glow sink behind the Andes, and as it offers a silent symphony of
color, it bathes Taquile in a reflective rosy hue. Even though my experience
on Taquile is now forming a significant memory, I know this island will
always continue to offer a true taste of tranquility.
The entire trip from Puno can be done without breaking
the bank. For approximately 20 Peruvian soles (roughly $7 US) anyone can
discover the meaning of ultimate tranquility.
How to Get There:
http://www.lanchile.com/
http://www.perutourism.com/
Images by Emily Nixon
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