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The Super St. Supéry

By Darryl Beeson

St. Supéry first acquired vineyards in 1982, starting with the Dollarhide Ranch, a 1,500-acre property in northeast Napa Valley. The winery continues to grow, knowing that through close management of the grapes in the vineyards, the highest quality winesend up in the bottle. St. Supéry has over 470 planted acres in Napa Valley. These vineyards offer diverse terrains, and St. Supéry makes an impressive statement with these grapes.

Robert Skalli, president of the winery, is a third generation French winemaker who was inspired by the similarities between the Napa Valley and the wine growing regions of his home. His Mediterranean roots and strong desire for innovation contribute to the style of St. Supéry wines. Learn more about his family's wines from France can be found at www.skallifamilywines.com.

Some St. Supéry bottles contain a synthetic “cork” called SupremeCorq made of a neutral polymer that reduces the risk of wine flaws sometimes caused by natural cork. There is no need to store these bottles on their sides, in fact they benefit from upright storage. Please use any corkscrew, but avoid using the “ah-so” (two steel pronged) style openers. Please avoid storing wine in environments where temperatures exceed room temperature – closets are best or cool and shaded areas in your home. More details about everything are at www.stupery.com.

St. Supéry "Virtu" White, Napa 2004
Price $28                    
Rating 94
"The 2004 Virtu is loaded with aromas of white peach, honeysuckle, and ruby grapefruit. The barrel fermentation of the Semillon adds notes of toast and a hint of vanilla to the fruit component," observes wine maker Michael Beaulac. "On the palate, intense flavors of spice, crème and peach marry with the roundness of the oak. The classic blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon create a wine which will age beautifully, becoming more complex with each year." Pair this complex white with veal chops, seared scallops, roasted chicken with very complex herbs, or with lusty pasta with shrimp or lobster. This is a powerful white wine.

St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2004
Price $19                    
Rating 92
"The 2004 Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp and fragrant wine, with bright tangy ruby grapefruit, sweet lime, gooseberry and just a hint of orange blossom," suggests Beaulac. "There is tremendous depth and dimension on the palate with loads of grapefruit, passion fruit and guava. This is a racy wine that finishes long and clean." The crisp acid in this white demands complex food pairings, perhaps grilled hallibut with a garlic-caper butter sauce, or simply with some thin slices of Romano cheese with green olives.

St. Supéry Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2001
Price $28
Rating 93
"Rich hues of black cherry and new brick gleam through the glass," observes Beaulac. "Aromatics are full with ripe blackberry and briar, enhanced by expressions of licorice and coffee bean. Lively flavors of currant and blackberries abound with barrel enhanced cassis and toasty charred oak. Wisps of vanilla from oak aging and a firm tannin structure combine for an elegant and refined finish." Serve this important red with prime, marbled beef or juicy lamb laced with rosemary, not mint sauce.

St. Supéry "Elu" Red, Napa 2002
Price $60
Rating 94
This elegant red is subtle. The complex fruit, the velvety tannins and then the oak are all in superb balance, something that few wineries achieve. Cassis, olive, cedar and multiple layers of interest all climb out of the glass.

"Wonderful harmony, intensity and concentration of cherry-vanilla, rose petal and cassis are found in the aroma, "boasts Beaulac. "On the palate juicy blackberry, red currant and black cherry notes are well balanced and rich without being overpowering. Ripe and supple tannins finish long and lingering. This is a beautiful wine that will only improve over the next few years."

The exact mix includes 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, an interesting model based upon Bordeaux. The fruit, though, is much more expansive. This big but subtle red goes with beef, just the same. Aim for simplicity and winter vegetables. A turnip never tasted so good.

St. Supery Moscato, Napa 2004
Price $19
Rating 95
"Perfumed aromas of orchard ripe peaches and stewed apricots,"says wine maker Michael Beaulac. "Followed by flavors like peaches and apricot, accompanied by notes of cantaloupe and lychees, with ripe density and balanced acidity. Our tropical fruit basket in a glass." The fantastic nose tells of the following sip's complexity.

Composed of 100% Muscat Canelli, serve this lightly sweet, highly fragrant, wine with Caesar salad (Yes, Caesar salad!), liver-based pate, as well as peach or other stone fruit driven desserts. Avoid chocolate or overly sweet desserts. Better yet, dab some of this perfumed wine behind your ears before going out. See what happens.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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