Ghosts of Royalty, War and Prison — Framlingham Castle

by Marilyn Loeser

History books and tourist brochures will tell you Framlingham is the remains of a late 12th-century castle, that it was built by Roger Bigod — Earl of Norfolk and an influential person at the court of Henry II — and was a symbol of power and status.

Architecturally, the castle is notable for its curtain wall and mural towers, an early example of the design.

But my visit was more than a history lesson. It was a chance to spend time with my friends Karen and Simon Watts and their children Elle and Sebastian.

Located 12 miles inland from their home in Leiston, Suffolk, Simon expertly drove along narrow winding roads lined with hedge rows and farms toward the market town of Framlingham and its centuries-old houses and shops.

Approaching the castle, the rolling English countryside flows away from the stone towers — the entire scene framed by a clear blue sky, dew-kissed turf and far-off claret-red brick building.

The castle from the outside looks almost exactly as it did when it was built more than 700 years ago. The continuous curtain wall linking 13 towers can be climbed and walked giving excellent views of the surrounding countryside and town.

The curtain wall is in excellent condition, but nothing remains inside of the original buildings, only the poorhouse and outbuildings.

The tour begins and ends in what was the poorhouse, built here in the 15th-century.

Climbing a winding stone staircase, we found ourselves on the wall-walk where we could take in the beautiful vistas of the surrounding countryside.

Audio-guides, included with admission, provide a running monologue of the castle’s history. At specific points along the walkway are artist’s rendering of what was at different times throughout the castle’s history.

In 1190, Bigod repaired the damages caused when Henry III ordered its destruction in 1177. Occupation on this site has been traced back several centuries before Bigod came on the scene, but what visitors explore today is the result of Bigod’s resurrection of the castle.

Bigod also added to the castle resulting in 13 strong towers, walls and defending earthworks.
In 1213 King John stayed at the castle and three years later he seized and captured it. It then became the chief seat of the Mowbray family and later the Howards, dukes of Norfolk.

In 1553 Princess Mary came to stay at the castle and her colors flew over the gateway as thousands of her supporters camped around the castle. It was here that the Earl of Norfolk came to tell her that she had become Queen of England. During her reign, the castle was used as a prison for priests who defied the Church of England.

In 1636 the castle was bequeathed to Pembroke College, Cambridge with the condition that the castle, with the exception of the stone building, would be demolished and a poorhouse built on the site. The great hall and other internal buildings were gradually pulled down. The poorhouse lasted for 200 years and the castle was then used as a county court.

Depending on how long you stay at each point on the self-guided tour will determine the time you’ll spend here, but factoring in a stroll into town and lunch or a pint at a pub, plan on several hours to an entire day at this relic of a time gone by.
And go with your friends and loved ones. You’ll be able to make a little history of your own.

If you go:

Framlingham Castle is owned by English Heritage and is open daily: April to September 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; October 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and November to March, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
For more information: www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.12586

With the Great British Heritage Pass you will be granted free entry to more than 580 heritage properties including Framkingham Castle.
For more information: www.britishheritagepass.com

Accommodations:
Brudenell Hotel in nearby Aldeburgh.
For more information: www.brudenellhotel.co.uk

Traveling by train:
The nearest railway station is in Wickham Market, 6 miles away. There is bus service available for local routes.

The BritRail website highlights maps and special price-saving passes for all your rail travel in the United Kingdom. Passes are the most convenient — one ticket is good on more than 18,000 daily train departures in England, Scotland and Wales — and economical because they can be purchased for different increments of time.
For more information: www.britrail.net/index.html