Railroads in the Rockies

by Jennifer M. Eisenlau

After six hours of train travel through the mountains, I landed in hot water. And, I loved it. This January, my family and I booked an Amtrak tour package to Glenwood Springs, Colorado. We departed Denver at 9:00 am – an hour late – to chug along to Winter Park, then onto Grandby, and finally to the home of the world’s largest outdoor thermal pool. The weekend get-away package cost $160 (approximately) per person for round-trip train tickets, 2 nights at the Ramada (more later) and a one-day pool pass – Here’s a bit on each aspect of the package:

Train: Amtrak’s California Zephyr runs from Chicago to San Francisco with stops all along Colorado. The ride from Denver to Glenwood takes six hours. The cars are a bit grungy, but they are very spacious. There is a lot of leg room and space to move about. Tourists bound for Glenwood are all placed in the last coach car. The lounge car has a glass roof to let in the views – and are there views! Wow. As we made our way from Denver into the foothills, we rolled along frozen rivers and through canyons of red rocks. We saw bald eagles in trees and on the wing. Deer and elk grazed on the hillsides. A flock of wild turkeys flapped along the river bank. The most dramatic viewing for me was a stand-off between two furry coyotes chewing on an old deer carcass. When we departed Glenwood on Monday (the Zephyr was late again) there were flurries. Fresh snow fell on the canyon’s trees. It was beautiful—just the train, the river, and the red rocks.

Hotel: I choose the Ramada from the two hotels offered in the package. The Ramada came with a complimentary breakfast (which was okay) and a pool (which was small, but my son liked it). Located two blocks from the thermal pool, the hotel--while not glamorous--was fine for my family. The other hotel is The Lodge, owned by the same company that operates the thermal pool. I stayed there two years ago and my reservation was screwed up (no need to go into that here). Although The Lodge is in a better location and is in better repair than the poor ol’ Ramada, I am glad I booked the hotel I did. Some folks we met on the train told us that their Lodge reservation was screwed up.

Pool: The Glenwood Hot Springs pool is rather wonderful in the winter. Steam rises from the water, creating a vapor cloud that obscures visibility. Floating in the sulfurous pool feels so soothing. The pool is open 9 a.m. – 9 p.m. We swam in the morning, had a break, then returned at 5 p.m. that night. With a hand-stamp, pool guests can come and go all day. I suggest you go prepared. Bring 50¢ for the locker, your own towel and shampoo, lots of body lotion (the water really dries your skin) and a bottle of water to drink. An extra day at the pool costs $13.00 per adult.

Town: The town is obviously famous for its water. Recently, Glenwood Springs was named America’s #1 Fishing Town by Field and Stream magazine. Years ago, people with TB came to take air and water cures – like the famed gambler Doc Holliday. His grave is a short hike outside of the center of town. The historic heart is an easy walk over the pedestrian bridge from the hotels and pool. Old Victorian buildings line the street. You will leave the pool feeling relaxed, clean, and hungry after your soak. And you will be in luck; there are several good spots for dinner in Glenwood Springs.

Food: Glenwood Springs’ restaurants are quite fine: maybe because Aspen is just thirty miles away? Whatever the cause, you will find lots of places to enjoy dinner. My family visited Tequila’s Mexican Food twice. This restaurant was recommended to me by my student, Brian, who’s a local of Glenwood. The restaurant serves a great beer – order a Dos XX or Corona and you will get a frosted glass, rimmed with salt and served with lime wedges. The Margaritas are expensive (over $7) so stick to beer ($3). The complimentary chips and salsa come with cabbage pico de gallo which is truly authentic, or so I have been told. Plates are hot and fast and huge. Go early, as the locals fill the tables and a line starts at 6 p.m.

Juicy Lucy’s: This steak house is a classy Victorian restaurant with a pressed tin ceiling and dark green Wainscoting. A fine wine list and delicious fruit pie for dessert, compliment the meals. Several ranchers in impressive hats were enjoying their steaks, I noticed. I had a Rueben, my husband a New York Strip. The place was packed. Like Tequila’s, it’s all locals, so go early to get a seat.

Glenwood Canyon Brew Pub: This pub offers many fine handmade beers and hard cider by the glass ($3) or pint ($4). The Vapor Caves IPA and the Scotch Ale were excellent. The menu is varied and offers some unusual options. I enjoyed chicken stew in a bread bowl; my husband loved the green chili burger. Everything on the menu seems like comfort food, after a dip in the pool on a snowy day.

And that’s when I recommend a winter trip to Glenwood. I have been to the pool in the summer, but Colorado is hot in July and August. In January, it was only 20 degrees Fahrenheit as we dashed from changing room to the pool. The therapy pool (104° hot degrees) felt fantastic. One caveat: the pool gets rather racy in the dark hours, prior to closing. Couples snuzzle in the mist, which could concern some parents swimming with their kids. My son asked, “What are those people doing?” And rather than shush him, I replied, “Making out.” I repeated that phrase again (and again) before we left the pool.

To close, I enjoyed my 3-day railroad getaway. It was funky and quirky, but that’s Colorado for me. As we rode home through the 33 tunnels that create a railway through the Rockies, a full moon appeared above the horizon. We then saw the bright lights of Denver spread before us – a lovely ending to a lovely trip.

Railroads in the Rockies

by Jennifer M. Eisenlau

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