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Taos: It’s a State of MindBlazing Off the Plaza PathBy Robin O’Grady
These “creative types” were just following in the footsteps of generations before them, artists and writers who found inspiration in the foothills of the Sangre de Christo Mountains. The downtown historic district is quintessential Southwest—an eclectic mix of Hispanic, American Indian and Wild West influences. Adobe structures nestle next to clapboard houses. Lush courtyards surround clusters of galleries and boutiques. Secret alleys lead to cafes and secluded specialty shops.
Parking is an issue here. If you’re not staying right in town, arrive early and be prepared to feed the meters.
Then head over to Inspirations on Dona Luz Road. This funky store features exotic imports and a delicious selection of healthy juices. Set up an appointment for a psychic reading. Or book a massage in their relaxing little adobe next door. The price is good…and worth every penny! Just down the lane is the Blue Moon Gallery, where you’ll find an impressive (and often reasonably priced) collection of local art work. The atmosphere is conducive to browsing, so take your time and soak in the kaleidoscope of talent that exists in Taos.
A few blocks away is the Kit Carson Historic Home, offering a well-rounded impression of frontier life in the 1800s. If socialites are more your forte, stroll up to the Mabel Dodge Luhan House. The art-colony compound has a rich history of famous visitors—from Greta Garbo and Ansel Adams to Dennis Hopper and Jack Nicholson.
The Millicent Rogers Museum, a few miles from the Pueblo, displays an impressive collection of regional art. During the 1940s, this oil-heiress spearheaded an effort to preserve indigenous works. Today, the collection is considered one of the Southwest’s most significant. If you only have time to visit one museum, this should top the list.
Back in town, other sure-bet eateries include Michael’s Kitchen for an authentic tex-mex breakfast. Eske’s Brew Pub & Eatery featuring healthy food and a large selection of “hand-crafted” beers. And, the Apple Tree garden restaurant, known for its terrific enchiladas, impressive wine selection and scrumptious chocolate pâté. Still ready for action? Dance the night away at the Sagebrush Inn, a local favorite.
Wherever your travels lead, take it slow (all the waiters do!). And remember, Taos isn’t a place, as D.H. Lawrence wrote, “it’s a state of mind.” Photographs and Images: Courtesy of the New Mexico Tourism Department; The Harwood Museum; The Millicent Rogers Museum; artisans H. Ann Wyndham, Bruce Gomez and Dan Monaghan. Robin O’Grady is a roving freelance writer living in Michigan. Contact her at: alphabetsoup@earthlink.net Helpful links: |
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It doesn’t take a genius to figure out why the “hippies”
flocked to Taos and never left after the 1960s film, Easy Rider, revealed the
area’s diverse landscape, architecture and culture.
Taos should be savored, not rushed. Stroll around for
awhile, then find a patio café, sit back, chill out, and watch the scenery.
After a couple of espressos (or margaritas), you’re ready to get up and do it
all again. Taos is built for comfort, not for speed.
In the heart of town is the Taos Plaza, a historic park
encircled by a series of galleries and souvenir shops. Check out the Hotel La
Fonda, where you’ll see the D.H. Lawrence “Forbidden Art” collection—banned from
Europe decades ago. Or make a dinner reservation at Joseph’s Table, the hotel’s
award-winning culinary spot.
After you’ve had your fill of the Plaza’s tee shirts and
“same-old, same-old” jewelry, venture down any one of the side streets off the
Plaza to discover the real hand-crafted treasure of Taos. 
A good place to start is at the John Dunn House Shops, a
colonial-style complex that wraps around garden courtyards. Stop in at the
popular Moby Dickens Bookstore and say hi to Ruby, the resident cat. Or pick up
some whimsical “Day of the Dead” folk art at Coyote Moon. Check out the woven
textiles, leather works, and collectible minerals at the many shops that line
these walkways.
Make sure you get a couple blocks over to Bent Street, home
to some lovely little boutiques and restaurants. Don’t miss Artemisia Artwear
where you’ll find one-of-a-kind clothing designed from exquisite textiles. The
hand-crafted jewelry creations in Taos are “to-die-for,” and Bent Street is a
great place to look for that special piece…or several!
Take a break at the Alley Cantina, hidden away on Teresina
Lane. It’s touted as the oldest building in Taos. The historic courtyard is
relaxing, the inside is rough-timber rustic, and their specialties—fish and
chips or Southwest BBQ—are worth the visit.
Make your way over to historic Ledoux Street where you’ll
discover a series of museums, galleries and shops including the Harwood Museum
of Art and the Blumenschein Home and Museum. Artist Ernest Blumenschein helped
found the Taos Society of Artists in 1912, and these two sites offer a heartfelt
tribute to the artists who flocked to the area in the early part of the 20th
century.
Amble back to the main drag and stop in at the Taos Inn.
Built in the 1800s, this historic setting is the perfect place to hang-out at
the sunny sidewalk café or gather around the lobby’s adobe fireplace for drinks
and casual dining. Ask about the legendary ghost sightings while you’re at it.
Once you’ve explored the downtown area, it’s time to
venture out. A must-see is the Taos Pueblo, the continent’s oldest inhabited
structure. American Indians continue to live in these rose-colored buildings
just as their ancestors did centuries ago. No running water or electricity for
these folks. Take a walking tour to get the true flavor of this ancient
settlement. (Call ahead for hours, they close on a whim.)
Unless you’re staying at an upscale hotel, internet access
can be a problem. If you need to pick up some orphaned emails, try the Wired
Café south of town. It’s tucked behind Raley’s supermarket on Felicidad Road.
This cozy coffee house rents PCs by the hour and has a great outdoor garden
area.
While you’re on this side of Taos, it’s an eight-mile drive
south to the Stakeout Bar and Grill. Go for a relaxing dinner (opens at 5 p.m.)
and gaze out over the mesa from the spacious patio café. Great seafood, pasta
and organic steaks top the list of favorites. 
On the way, stop off at the Ranchos Church in Ranchos de
Taos. This mission-style structure—a breathtaking example of old-world
Franciscan architecture—is portrayed by more artists than any other church in
the United States.
Feeling like you’re about to overdose on museums and
shopping? You can always golf, hot air balloon, white-water raft, horseback
ride, llama trek, rent a bike, take a mountain chair-lift ride, or head off to
the nearby Taos Mountain Casino—the only “smoke-free” gambling joint in the
state.