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The start of this rail journey is an unlikely hero: A city with unusual charm and attraction, yet a city often excluded (unfortunately) from Australian itineraries. It is a city with so many opportunities it puts its bigger cousins, Sydney and Melbourne, to shame. It is Adelaide, the jewel of southern Australia.

Adelaide's charm-its big city attractions so conveniently accessible, its proximity to renown vineyards, plentiful beaches and magnificent sights such as Kangaroo Island with its myriad of wildlife-makes it an undiscovered star for travellers willing to make the short trek south from Sydney. For the wine lover, the Barossa Valley makes a wonderful day trip and it is here that many of the most prized Australian wines are produced. Within the city are all the modern shopping and hospitality amenities that make it world-class, but also appealing early 20th century architecture and one of the most serene and stylish botanical gardens in the world-right in the central business district!

What many people don't know, however, is that Adelaide is the hub of the Great Southern Railway, Australia's outstanding national rail system. From Adelaide there are frequent rail links to the continent's major cities and tourist destinations. The Overland makes the (overnight to, day return) trek to Melbourne. The prestigious Ghan travels to the oasis of Alice Springs, a stepping stone away from Uluru (Ayers Rock); within the next decade, its path will extend past Alice Springs all the way to Darwin. And the magnificent Indian Pacific, which travels from Perth to Sydney, twice weekly in each direction, passes through Adelaide.

I had the golden opportunity to take the Indian Pacific trip from Sydney to Perth earlier this year. The journey is a 65-hour, three-night adventure that covers the entire continent in style, comfort, and without any of the annoying hassles that can occur while travelling on your own; only cruising can compare in regard to convenience and restfulness.

The Indian Pacific can also be joined in Adelaide for half the journey, either toward Perth or Sydney, and both directions have their scenic merits. Going west the train crosses the longest stretch of "straight" rail track in the world, nearly 300 miles, as it traverses the famed Nullarbor Plain. The road in this region runs along the coast, so the only possible way to properly experience this vast expanse is from the comfort of your private berth or, as we spent our time, in the spacious lounge car, socializing with fellow travellers from around the world. Stops across the Nullarbor include Cook, once a thriving outback town now a locomotive refueling station (population 2), as well as Kalgoorlie, a gold mining town on the western fringe of the plain. In addition, the expanse west of the plain toward Perth includes amazing tracts of eucalyptus (karri, marri and shorter varieties), many with pom-pom tops reminiscent of the unique, surreal trees found only in a Dr. Seuss book.

Alternatively, the trip east to Sydney runs through rolling hills and expansive farmland; sights of grazing sheep and cattle contrasted with curious kangaroos and, for those with a sharp eye, emus, give the familiar farmland sights a unique and unfamiliar twist. This pastoral terrain eventually slips into an ascent up to Victoria, Blackheath, Katoomba and other Blue Mountains towns. The awesome gorge formation here offers spectacular cliff views, waterfalls, and flocks of parrots, rosellas and cockatoos among the gum trees.

It's worth mentioning the cost of such a wonderful journey, something travel writers often shy away from. Why? Because this trip, first class, is affordable and excellent value. A trip right across the country is about $750 US per person, much less on the Adelaide west or east portions. That may seem expensive, but consider firstly that this includes three delicious and substantial hot meals daily, prepared and expertly presented in an exclusive first class dining car. Further, your cabin includes private washroom facilities (the double berths with private shower), fresh towels daily, optional organized tours at many outback stops and courteous, efficient staff. Secondly, compare this cost against three night's hotel and restaurant meals-to say nothing of other travel expenses. Finally, add on the magnificent terrain on view, from farmland to forest to outback, and you have a rail journey second to none.

What makes the Indian Pacific so appealing, I think, is the opportunity to take in such varied terrain, the unique vegetation so unlike North America (to say nothing of the marsupials). My expectations were that most of the sights would be flat, monotonous and desert-like. Nothing could be further from the truth. Views and landscapes changed virtually every hour, from rolling ranch lands to salt flats, old growth forests to wheat fields, sand dunes to riverbeds, replete with abundant wildlife and exotic birds. Even the Nullarbor, the most consistent terrain topographically speaking, provided an expansive horizon unlike any I'd ever witnessed. It was as though you could see the curve of the earth.

The Indian Pacific can be joined anywhere between Sydney and Perth, or from Melbourne on the Overland. The legendary Ghan, which runs from Adelaide to Alice Springs, can also be joined in Sydney or Melbourne. But a word of warning: You will be enchanted by the offerings in and around Adelaide. I suggest you tie in your rail journey with enough time to "hang" with penguins and sea lions on Kangaroo Island, sample the luscious wines of the Barossa Valley and of course, soak up some rays on Adelaide's Henley or West Beach.

Photographs by S. R. Smith

For booking information contact your travel agent, or surf to Australia's Great Train Journeys for extensive details on all Australia's passenger trains, including timetables and fares.

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