^TM

The sun's heat radiates through a lightweight overcoat of wispy clouds to the dusty trail before us. I strip off my fleece jacket and use it to mop my damp brow. Step by step, we plod slowly over the rocky rubble of the glacial moraine, and before long we sight the magnificent Angel Glacier that is suspended high on the cliff, frozen in time, long after its formation millions of years ago. Appropriately named, its thick-crusted wings span just below the glacial-gouged cirque, and the main body gravitates downward while clinging to its Rocky Mountain home. The aqua-green melt-water pond in the foreground hosts sharp-edged ice chunks that bob like styrofoam above the chilly surface. Not all that long ago this body of water and the wind swept barren valley was cloaked with the icy blue surface, but with the warming trend over the years it has gradually melted away and receded back to its present position.

"This view literally takes my breath away," I gasp, as we ascend to the alpine meadow at about 7,000 feet. Albeit the vista is without a doubt spectacular and the altitude is a tad thinner in the oxygen content, I can hardly blame my 'out of condition' huffing and puffing on either. As truth will have it, the vertical gain via my hiking boots has actually only been a hundred meters or so. Our SUV has done the rest. And it waits patiently for our return in the popular parking lot below.

This drive-in access to Mt. Edith Cavell's alpine, in Jasper National Park, offers vista opportunities for hikers of all abilities. . . from those like myself, who pound computer keys more than soft tundra trails, to fit lads, like my hubby, who have enough energy to climb Kilimanjaro. And, of course, everyone in between, young and old alike.

Just as steeped as these magnificent embracing peaks are, so is this area's history. Edith Cavell was a heroic British nurse who cared for the wounded soldiers of both sides in World War One, and helped over 200 allied soldiers escape. She was arrested for espionage and executed by firing squad on October 12, 1915, and as a result of her courageous undertakings, she became known as 'The Martyr Nurse.' In tribute to her bravery, Canada gave her name to this grandest mountain in the Athabasca Valley. And as we find out after our mountain peak descent, her remembrance also lives on at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, just a thirty-minute drive away.

Home to over nine hundred acres, the balance of natural beauty combines with man-made elegance of this resort that was founded in the same year of Edith Cavell's unjustified death. Although, now a far cry from the ten large tents that first accommodated guests who travelled from far and wide via The Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the same picturesque setting amidst the Canadian Rockies continues to serve as a popular getaway destination for holiday lovers, like us, today.

We meander through the main lodge where the historical feel is maintained and the magnificent setting is brought indoors. Beneath its sunlit A-framed ceilings, slate tiled floors lead the way to our choice of intimate sitting areas where an eclectic blend of d�cor is handsomely coordinated. Relaxing in willow rockers, while cuddling in front of the massive floor to ceiling river rock fireplace, we are reminded of the nature that abounds in this area by the trophy heads of elk and bison that hang proudly on the walls. Picturesque lake, mountain, and shimmering swimming pool views make their way to the interior through the windowed walls, and so does the architectural stonework and finishing dark wood accents. Classical music soothes our souls, and aromas waft from the many dining options, one named after the infamous Edith Cavell, where gourmet dining and classic service boast elegant surroundings and spectacular views of the glacial peak where we had earlier hiked.

Although the original lodge was built in 1923, it burned to the ground twenty-nine years later, and this spectacular replacement, designed to blend in well with the surroundings, has taken its place since opening the doors June 9, 1953. In addition to sharing treasures with us regular folk, this popular resort destination has also been a favourite past haunt for well-known celebrities and the making of movies. In 1946, The Emperor Waltz, featuring Bing Crosby, was filmed on the grounds. He enjoyed the resort so much that he returned a year later to take part (and win) the Jasper Park Lodge Golf Club's Totem Pole Tournament. 1953 turned out to be a gangbuster year for hosting celebrities. The filming of Marilyn Monroe and Robert Mitchum's love story, The River Of No Return, was followed by a visit from Jimmy Stewart and Walter Brennan who both starred in The Far Country, as well as Rita Hayworth's film, The Human Beast.

Old World elegance blends harmoniously with contemporary luxury in the variety of posh, log-hewn accommodations that sprawl over meticulous lawns, hover around emerald lakes and skirt the rim of a manicured golf course. The original wishes of a bungalow-style resort has been honoured, where the cluster of moderately sized buildings and cabins seems better suited to the lakeshore sites and the surrounding wide valley than a massive hotel would be.

We meander brick paved walkways bordered by manicured garden beds en route to our elegantly appointed Beauvert suite where the fine attention to detail continues. Shaded by towering firs and Lodgepole pine, we are privy to Lac Beauvert views from both our living area and from our adjacent bedroom's king size bed. All of the pampering amenities are waiting to be enjoyed and just the site of the soaker tub gives hope to my unconditioned hiking legs. The familiar quarry stone, to the original lodge architecture, is woven throughout and enhances our fireplace as well as the exterior appearance of our private deck where we relax under sun-kissed skies.

From our deck perch we also have the clear site of Canada's longest and highest aerial tramway that transports riders from the town centre of nearby Jasper to an elevation gain of over 7,000 feet.

"That's about the same height that we were at today," my husband reminds me, although there's no need as my rubbery legs are effectively doing the trick. "Mt Edith Cavell offers another hike that leads through meadows to more spectacular views of Angel Glacier. Do you want to try that one tomorrow?" he questions with a grin.

There's no need for an answer. My sigh indicates that I'd rather enjoy the legacy of this woman's courage right here, amongst the history that resides at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge.

Back to TravelLady Magazine