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If you've ever dreamed of enjoying good food in your own English country mansion while being waited on by a superb staff, then dream no more. The Empress Restaurant at the historic Empress Hotel (now called the Fairmont Empress) in Victoria will fulfill your fantasies.

The walls of the softly lit dining room are covered in elegant deep green tapestry reminiscent of the finest in any country home. The 20-ft. high ceiling is decorated with a carved mahogany ceiling, adding to the luxury.

In the background classic music plays at just the right level to enhance but not interfere with the restful surroundings. At certain times of the year-Christmas for instance-live music is provided at half-hour intervals. A harpist played Christmas music when my friend and I visited the restaurant.

After we were escorted to the table, a waiter at each of our chairs pulled them out and placed napkins on our laps. Our waiter then asked if iced water was appropriate before pouring it.

Although a sommelier was not available, the waiter seemed well versed in the skill. The wine list was extensive—350 bottles—and arranged according to region. Four pages alone were devoted to wine by the glass. A specialty is local wines. My friend ordered a pre-dinner Tio Pepe, and was impressed that it was served chilled, something few restaurants know to do.

For an appetizer, I ordered a squash soup, delicately seasoned to bring out the full flavor of the vegetable. My friend ordered a smoked salmon and tuna appetizer served on a biscuit flavored with dill. The bread, served before the meal, was fresh and had a springy texture. The crust was toothsome without being rubbery. Before the main course, we were served a pear-and-cinnamon sorbet to cleanse the palette. Perfect.

Shiraz, a full-bodied 1997 Australian wine, was ordered by the glass to complement an order of duck with honey glaze and blueberry sauce. The thinly sliced duck was succulent, and its flavor was well complemented by the sauce. It was served over a mound of creamy smashed spuds and a small portion of fresh green beans, carrots, and squash—a nice variety of flavors and textures.

The very large piece of grilled salmon was not quite as successful, being served with a tomato sauce that did nothing to enhance its flavor. A token serving of a variety of root vegetables accompanied the salmon.

For dessert, I ordered a lavender-and-pear crème brulée, pleasant but rather bland. My friend found her profiteroles flavourful but tough. They were served with a more than adequate pitcher of delicious caramel sauce—just the right consistency and sweetness.

One helpful feature of the dessert menu was the listing of appropriate wines to complement each dessert. The light mellow port suggested to accompany the profiteroles was exactly right.

After the meal, we felt coddled. We had a delightful dining experience—enjoying good food, enhanced by faultless service and a décor that enveloped us in cozy luxury.

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