How to Get the Best Bargains
on a Restaurant Wine List

By Darryl Beeson

Michael Bonadies, one of my favorite restaurateurs and wine writers and author of "Sip by Sip: An Insider's Guide to Learning All About Wine" ($12.95 paperback, Doubleday/Main Street Books) called me a while back with an interesting question. As a wine professional, what tips could I offer as to how to ferret out the best bargains on a restaurant wine list?

The first tip, that all polled agreed upon, is to look off of the beaten track for little known wines, producers and regions. For some California examples, Wente or Ivan Tamas from the less than sexy sounding Livermore region, or R. H. Phillips from the Dunnigan Hills.

One of Bonadies' first jobs in the restaurant business was at Alice's Restaurant of song and movie fame. "What I remember most," Bonadies told me, "was that while Château Mouton Rothschild 1970 was on the list for $35, owner Alice Brock got a bigger kick out of convincing customers to try, in the mid seventies, obscure California wines, such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, for a fraction of the price."

Though California's mainstream varietals are not always the bargain these days, you get the point.

Secondly, Bonadies suggests, if entrees are priced under $20, look at the upper end of the wine list for value. Conversely, look at the lower end of the wine list if entrees are over $25.

Also avoid the common mistaken belief that you should never order the least expensive wine in a particular category. Assuming that the restaurant is in anyway serious about food and wine, and why would you frequent the other kind, the least expensive will be close in caliber to the wine one price notch upwards. Statistically, the second cheapest wine is often the biggest seller on an average restaurant's wine list.

Thirdly, don't neglect wines or vintages that have been left behind in the rush to get what's new, publicized and limited in supply.

I remember a few years back, the wine publications scored the '89 California Chardonnays low because rain at harvest time diluted the end result for many. In the frenzy, California Cabernet Sauvignons, harvested at a later date and missing the rain, were priced lower in the confusion even though they were fine quality wise.

Fourthly, try to discover the wines on the list that are close to the restaurateur's heart. My example would be in a family owned Italian restaurant, try to find out what region the owner is from. Wines corresponding with that region can be gems and bargains.

Number five, my favorite tip, is to use flattery with the restaurant owner or person who takes care of the wine list. Compliment the list profusely, then humbly ask for help. When this happened to me at The Mansion on Turtle Creek, I made an extreme effort to point out the best bargains, which can easily be overlooked with a list of over 700 wine selections.

Don't be shy to ask if the establishment has a so-called Sommelier's list, usually a short grouping of odds, ends and occasional gems. If they don't have such a list, inquire if there is an odd bottle that they would like to sell at a discount. Don't be afraid of appearing too frugal. Most restaurants are thrilled to clean out the inventory of these odd soldiers.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.