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Thar She BlowsA Whaling Good time On Vancouver Island’s Rugged West CoastBy Jane Cassie
While my brood still snoozes, I take advantage of this early morning hour on picturesque Cox Bay, just five minutes south of Tofino. The beach boulevard, rippled like corrugated cardboard and dotted with tidal pools, separates the turbulent Pacific from storm-ravaged evergreens. Summer warmth will soon captivate sandcastle architects and young tykes in search of sea anemones. Boogie boards will come out of hibernation beach volleyball teams will rally most days till sunset, and picnickers, sunbathers, and kayakers will replace us hearty storm watchers.
Since the early seventies the resort has been a labour of love for the Pettinger family and, based on the number of returning guests each year, they have figured out the key to success. “Couples enjoy storm watching from their private hot tubs and our summertime venues attract the families,” owner and General Manager, Dave Pettinger proudly shares. For us, this West Coast weekend is a family affair. Although our fourteen-year-old son hardly thinks that the ideal holiday includes parents, there is salvation when his best friend gets to tag along and we soon discover that the two electronic buffs are easily lured away from TV by the bounty of nature that waits just steps away. A well-maintained boardwalk, canopied by gnarled cedars and spruce, leads to a rewarding vista, even for our two complacent teens. From the jetty perch that divides Chesterman Beach and Cox Bay we are privy to a perfect panorama in both directions. And as crashing waves shoot up white-water geysers, our gaze extends beyond the rocky plateau. We realise that there is only one thing separating us from Japan, and that is the relentless and unforgiving ocean! Sunset Trail, on the resort’s property, is just one of many hikes that borders Pacific Rim National Park. As well as other recreation opportunities, the old growth rainforest, extending the length of the notorious coastline, acts as a natural thirty-three kilometre corridor for the highway that joins Tofino to Ucluelet.
Once out of the protective sound, the transition from still waters to gigantic rollers is instantaneous and, like a seaward mariner, I go with the flow! I think of all the shipwrecks along this coastline and pray that our pontoons have more staying power than the air mattresses I’ve owned. Splashes of salt water kiss my lips and my stomach rises in unison with each swoop. Cheers from the front row echo in my ears and in spite of my racing heartbeat, I feel exhilarated and energized. Then Lynn suddenly slows the Zodiac and all falls silent. As we rise to the crest of a new wave, we all witness it. First the spout of air, then the dorsal fin, finally the massive gleaming backs that arch above the water’s surface, over and over again. “Thar she blows,” I call out, and I chuckle to myself at how often those words have applied during our visit to Vancouver Island’s rugged West Coast. Pacific Sands Beach Resort Things To Do:Jamie’s Whaling Station Images by Brent Cassie |
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The
thunderous roar of waves resonates in my ears. Ocean spray cloaks my bright
yellow slicker. The unruly breakers toss driftwood timbers as though light
as toothpicks, and mesmerize surfers clad head to toe in neoprene. They also
draw out storm watching aficionados, true blue romanticists, and families
like mine who have come in search of some outdoor adventure. Its Vancouver
Island’s rugged West Coast; a destination that offers excitement for
everyone! 
I eventually
make my way back to the northern end of this heavenly bay where forty-five
acres are devoted to guests of Pacific Sands Resort. Snuggling up to the
shoreline are Lindal cottages and three story lodgings, where crackling
fireplaces warm cosy interiors, and private patios view the pounding
Pacific. 
With
this new taste of the great outdoors, the teens look forward to more and,
after retiring their hiking boots, we head into Tofino where we bypass art
galleries (calling out my name) to get outfitted for survival. Whale
watching and other soft adventures dominate this once thriving fishing
village that is hemmed in by Clayoquot Sound and the wild ocean waves. And
although somewhat resistant to feeling camouflaged like an awkward
astronaut, I am warmed by my own adrenaline as I zip up the red suit.
From
March to May more than 
Today,
though, our navigator, Lynn, expresses uncertainty. “The ocean swells are
cruel and the clouds spell impending rain.” We can tell she’s an expert.
She’s always lived in Tofino and knows the conditions like the back of her
hand. She decides to cruise Clayoquot Sound in hopes of spotting one of the
grays that often escapes to the calmer bays. We skim the glassy surface in
search of black bear along the tide line, seal pups on rock outcroppings and
sought after dorsal fins breaking the waters’ surface. We come up empty
handed. “I guess we’re out of luck, today,” Lynn resigns. “Unless you want
to live on the wild side and check out the open water.” Although I’m
somewhat precarious, the teens yelp out a collective, “Yahoo!” …and we’re
off! 