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Equus, a “Rhone-Ranger”

From Wildhorse Winery

By Darryl Beeson

"We’ve created Equus to showcase Rhone varietals grown primarily in the Paso Robles area of California's central coast," says Wildhorse winemaker and founder Ken Volk. “The Central Coast in general (San Luis Obispo County in particular) has been the quantitative and qualitative leader in the Rhone inspired wine movement in California.”

Equus, Viognier, Central Coast, 2000
Price $18.99
Rating 90
The nose has aromas of strong herbs. This is a more masculine style. There is a hint of dried peach, but not as much peach floral as in other Californian viogniers. Additional flavors of lemon and delicate tropical fruit bring this white wine to a complex conclusion. There are some hotter flavors from the wine's higher 14.5% alcohol level.
"We pick at higher grape sugar levels to capture more aromatics in the wine, thus the higher alcohol level," explains Volk. Viognier (vee-OHN-yea) is prized for its alluring aromatics and hedonistic flavors. The Equus Viognier is a beautiful expression of this Northern Rhône grape variety.

Equus, Rousanne, Paso Robles, 1999
Price $18.99
Rating 90
"There is a fair amount of flinty minerality in both the roussanne and the viognier that we make," says Volk. A sip reveals delicate flavors of mango, other melon, lemon, fig, and a piquant bit of radish in the finish. This lean, well structured white wine could meld beautifully with roasted poultry, influenced by fresh herbs.

Rousanne is described by Jancis Robinson, editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine, as the "nerviest, most elegant white Rhone grape." The Equus Roussanne is a fine example. This big, white wine has clear aromas of nectarine, guava and acacia with full flavors of peach, honey and fig and a long, persistent, mineral finish. This is perfect match to shellfish or pasta.

Equus, Mourvedre, Paso Robles 1998
Price $18.99
Rating 90
Imagine aromas and flavors of freshly tilled earth, mulberry and plum. This red is unique. The grape Mourvedre is the principal component in Bandol red and rose wines of the Provence region and a key component in Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends of the Southern Rhone. “While the variety is sometimes described as having a gamy-like or meaty flavor, the Equus Mourvedre accentuates the earthiness and fruit, giving flavors of tart cherry, plum and mulberry," observes Volk. “True to its varietal profile, Mourvedre's structure allows it to play well as a companion to wild game and smoked foods. We recommend roast duck.”

Equus Syrah, Paso Robles 1997
Price $18.99
Rating 91
A sip reveals red cherry, toasted nuts, raspberry, black pepper and sweet tobacco. “Full bodied and robust, our syrah offers up intense aromas and flavors which are constantly developing in the glass. At first, notes of cherry and blueberry fruits, then white pepper and smoked meat character,” suggests Volk. “This is a beautifully complex wine.”

Wild Horse, Pinot Noir, Central Coast 1999
Price $19.99
Rating 92
"This offers a hedonistic value," says Volk, “as pinot noir, that is good pinot noir, tends to be costly. Pinot noir is all about aromatics, texture and spice. Ours has vibrant aromas and flavors of cherry, pomegranate, cola, and Oriental spices, our Pinot Noirs are consistently praised for their complexity and good value. They are, without a doubt, the most food-friendly red wines we produce.”

There are flavors of bright cherry, intriguing spice, a hint of leather, a drop of bright orange/citrus, closing out with a nifty raspberry. This red is bright, beautiful and flavorful. Wild Horse was named for the wild mustangs that roam east of their estate. These horses are descendants of the first Spanish horses introduced to California. For more information on all of these wines, visit www.wildhorsewinery.com.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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