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Trekking in Chiang Mai

An Elephant Experience

By Donna Yuen

When I first began inquiring about places to visit in Thailand, the city of Chiang Mai came up frequently. I had wondered what there was to see and do in the north; doesn’t everyone just go to Bangkok and the islands? Apparently not! In addition to the 300 temples in Chiang Mai; numerous waterfalls and great shopping, many people go there to trek.

The usual itinerary consists of hours of trekking, an elephant ride, visiting a few hill tribe villages, traditional Thai meals and floating down the river in a bamboo raft. We begin our day on foot with a few hours of easy trekking before us. The hike through the mountains is relatively pleasant, except for the 32 degree heat. We eventually settle for lunch by a waterfall. A few people jump into the cold water seeking relief from the hot afternoon sun. We finally make our way to the river where there are bamboo rafts waiting to return us down the river to a waiting van. I carefully climb on; trying not to tip the long raft, and within minutes we are floating away down the river. The ride is peaceful and tranquil as our guide effortlessly pushes our raft down the slow moving river. I stretch out my legs in the sun and gaze at my remote surroundings; appreciating the Thai countryside where giant banana trees shade the river’s edge. After the rafts are disassembled and packed away we continue our trek.

Armed with large amounts of water we quickly reach the hill tribe village where we will spend the night. The village belongs to the Karen tribe, and has a lovely rustic quality to it. The old wooden houses are all raised upon stilts. The first person we encounter is a 78 year old woman.  She is the oldest person in the village and informs us via our guide that she is the only member left who had originally settled in this area. She does not speak English, but her welcoming smile expresses a gentle unspoken kindness. As the remainder of the group continues their tour further into the village, I opt to sit on the veranda beside her, to enjoy the view from her perspective. She smiles at me and begins speaking in Thai. I smile in return, nodding and communicating in our nonverbal manner. She eventually reaches for my hand, and gently grasps my fingers in her warm palm; the way a grandmother might touch a child, and I know that I am welcome. After a traditional Thai dinner, our group is invited to stay in a wooden hut belonging to one of the villagers. The accommodations are basic, with only mats and blankets to sleep on. Nevertheless, the experience of sleeping in a hill tribe village in Thailand will always be a memorable one.

We leave early the next morning for the elephant camp; so that the elephants will not be working in the heat of the day. When the elephants are visible across the river, I become very excited at the prospect of riding one up the mountain; but first we have to cross the river on a small footbridge. The bridge appears to be suspended precariously over the river and is merely made of bamboo and wire. I walk quickly holding the thin wire railing and carefully trying to avoid the small holes littered across the bridge.

The elephant guides direct me to climb upon the elephant, patting its neck to indicate where I am to place my feet. I gingerly step upon his neck, fearful of harming him. I quickly seat myself in the wooden chair strapped to the elephants back and within minutes we are off. The wooden seat is surprisingly comfortable. I look down at the ground far below me, watching the elephants large yet adorable feet plod their way through the brush.  Suddenly, a member of our group calls out to say that she has dropped her camera. My elephant guide quickly jumps from his perch atop the elephant’s head to retrieve the camera. I look down at my guide as he walks alongside the elephant to deliver the camera back to its rightful owner. I gesture to him that I want to climb up onto the elephant’s head and neck area where he had sat. He indicates his approval and I scramble forward on to the elephants neck. Straddling his large neck and looking desperately for something to hold on to, the elephant gently flaps his massive ears against my bare legs. His skin texture is much coarser than I had imagined, and the small hairs covering his body are rather prickly. I move with the elephant’s motion, trying not to fall. I know that I must have a big silly grin on my face, like a child whose dream has just been fulfilled.

We finally reach the next elephant camp Another guide surprised to see me perched atop the elephant’s head assists me to get off the elephant; he smiles at me and inquires “were you scared”? ,

“No” I reply, “just thankful.”

We disembark to purchase bananas for our newfound friends. As the elephant gently takes a bunch of bananas from my hand; it seems like such a small price to pay, for such a gargantuan experience.

Donna Yuen
Phone(604) 264-0777
E-mail travelmnts@aol.com

Images by Donna Yuen

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