Playa for Pesos
by
Ginny Ripley
Talk about culture shock. The last time I was in Playa del Carmen, there
were dirt roads, a few shops and restaurants on 5th Avenue and we had to pay
cash for everything with no ATMs in sight.
Now 20 years later, I’ve returned to see its mighty evolution into the #1
honeymoon destination in the world. My sunburned head spins as I lament the
passing of the little mom-and-pop casitas, now replaced by sprawling
all-inclusive resorts who have gobbled up the beachfront from Cancun to
Tulum and beyond.
Yes, you can pamper yourself in 5-star properties with Vegas-style marquis
signs reading Wyndham, RIU, Iberostar, and Barcelo. Or you can create a
simpler, more authentic and far less expensive holiday the way my husband
and I did, experiencing the real Playa—for pesos!
 Now when I “scale back” a
holiday, I don’t mean hostels, campgrounds and tacos. I’ve discovered
clever, thrifty ways to stay right on the best beach, steps away from all
the shops, restaurants and nightlife Playa del Carmen has to offer. Instead
of eating all day and night with a little flick of your AI wristband, you’ll
be able to eat the way the locals do. Indulge in fresh fish and seafood from
the neon blue sea, authentic Mayan recipes and an international fusion of
flavors from Asia, Europe, Argentina and beyond.
 One of the best buys on the
white sands of the Riviera Maya is the Playa Palms Beachfront Hotel.
 We are in an ocean view
studio just steps away from the awesome sand and water now seen in so many
glossy travel magazines. An outdoor pool meanders through the middle of the
property, much like a river. It’s hard to believe the amazing rate
during high season--if you visit in spring or fall, the rate drops even
more. I almost hate to pass along this recommendation as there are only 38
studios and suites available for smart, peso-wise travelers like me!
 Our studio has a
kitchenette, with refrigerator, microwave, coffeepot, toaster, cable TV and
private balcony with a hammock for afternoon siestas or gazing at the stars.
It’s a priceless pleasure to escape Wisconsin’s winter weather and hear the
surf and be outdoors in the warm, juicy air.
 If location is everything,
then Playa Palms has it all! When hunger strikes, we are only two short
blocks from the cobblestoned Fifth Avenue, the famous pedestrian heart of
the city. No more dirt roads or single row of shops and eateries from
1989. Now, every side street holds a treasure trove of things to buy, eat
and drink. And the people watching is world class, with all ages and
nationalities intermingling in a rich cultural stew.
  One
of my favorite local food fiestas is El Fogon, open 24 hours. It’s a lively
outdoor gathering spot for locals and a few savvy tourists. The food is
cheap, simple, plentiful and delicious. I was glad we walked here, because
we REALLY needed the walk on the way home. Don’t expect soft music,
candles and romance. The place is loud, colorful, crowded, hot, smoky—and
fun! The friendly waiters speak little English and there’s none on the
menu either. So if you like to know what you’re ordering, try doing some
homework on TripAdvisor.com.
 If you’re looking for a
few quick suggestions...El Fogon’s guacamole is considered to be the best in
town, and that’s saying a lot. Nopales or grilled cactus is a deliciously
different native food to experience. People also rave about the arrachera
steak--skirt steak bathed in beer, cumin, adobo seasoning, pico de gallo,
garlic and onions. And if you want some entertainment with your meal, order
the Tacos al Pastor and enjoy the show as the chef hand carves the sizzling
meat from a spit crowned with a whole pineapple of all things!
Many meals start with a fresh wake-up call for your taste buds: crisp
radishes, cucumbers, lime and salt. We then had homemade soup, arrachara and
chicken fajitas and 4 Sols for an amazing $20 including a generous tip.
Another peso-saving tip: while you’re in this area, stock up at the
MegaStore across the street. I call it a Mexican grocery store on steroids,
where locals and tourists alike save on food, electronics, clothes, books,
bakery, deli and even souvenirs.
 After all of El Fogon’s
rich, seasoned meat, the next day we needed a fresh fish fix. The place to
go is La Tarraya, right on the beach, close to the Cozumel ferry. All the
local fishermen stop here first to sell their catch of the day, and it
doesn’t get any fresher than that. I always look for a hungry passel of
pelicans out front-- they know their fresh fish!
Some of the most popular choices include the shrimp ceviche, it’s spicy
heaven. Try ordering the whole fish Yucatan Style if you can get past him
looking at you while you eat. And the zesty fish soup with local breads is a
meal in itself. Everything is under $10 and the ambience is kitschy cool
with little plastic tables and chairs set up right on the sand overlooking
the sea.
I promised you international fusion for pesos-- and Babe’s Noodles & Bar is
well-known in Playa for its inexpensive Thai and European dishes. They’ve
turned egg rolls into incredible edible art, well-stuffed with crab,
chicken, cheese, spring, beef, veggies, and all kinds of combos of these,
each with its own gourmet dipping sauce. We vowed to go back until we taste
all 13 varieties-- and then we’ll start on the mouthwatering noodle dishes.
The two 5th Avenue restaurants are Swedish-owned which explains the Swedish
meatballs on the eclectic menu.
 Another peso-saving trick
I love is using public transportation instead of renting a car and having to
deal with endless construction and dicey police stops. Cops don’t mess with
the 54-passenger ADO buses cruising up and down the highway on the hour!
Most arriving travelers jump into a Grayline taxi shuttle bus at the airport
which costs $23 per person ONE WAY. You sit and wait until the entire van is
filled and then you stop at every passenger’s resort until you reach yours.
We walked over to the south end of the terminal and bought ADO bus tickets
for $8 each. The bus is spacious, clean and comfortable, with air
conditioning and a bathroom. We were dropped off at the Playa bus station on
5th Avenue and rolled our luggage a couple of blocks to the
perfectly-located Playa Palms.
Another cheap way to get around is by Collectivo, white shuttle vans that
collect people until they’re full and go all the way to Tulum from 8am to 8
pm. I paid 20 pesos to get from Playa to the ruins and pristine beaches of
Tulum. If you’re on highway 307 and see a Collectivo flash its lights, that
means there is a seat open. If you want to claim it, simply wave your arms
and the driver will pull over. A simple system, but it works!
  If
you’re looking for peso-pinching outings and adventure or you’re just a
culture vulture like me, the Mayan ruins at Coba and Tulum fill the bill
with no admission. One of my most exhilarating experiences is to snorkel in
the natural ceynotes, which are underground freshwater
 rivers. One of the most
dramatic ceynotes is right on the way to Coba. We make our way down 32 steps
into a limestone cavern. We slip into the mineral-rich fresh water,
hoping to see the manatee family who supposedly cruises through regularly,
but not today.
The bigger, more popular ceynotes often charge a nominal entrance fee. But
there are many other ceynotes along the side of the major highway that I
would never have known about without a Can-do Playa del Carmen map. This
indispensable pocket pal is a detailed map and guidebook in one, brimming
with travel tips, restaurant and hotel reviews, even showing locations of
grocery stores, clinics, attractions and more. This little $12
investment saved us time, money and aggravation every day of our trip. Just
do an online search for “can-do maps” or “mapchick”--they’re now readily
available all over the Internet. Funny story--the first map I bought was in
1998. I ordered online but Laura and Perry did not accept credit cards back
then. They actually shipped it to me free on the honor system and said if I
liked it, I should then send them a check! I’ve recommended them ever since,
and it looks like they have a thriving business.
Low-tech, low-priced and laid-back is my great recipe for a stressbusting
vacation, especially in today’s fast and furious, techno-crazed world. Playa
del Carmen has all three if you know where to look.
IF YOU GO
Playa Palms Beachfront Hotel
Ira Ave Bis
Between Calle 12 & 14 Norte
www.playapalms.com
info@playapalms.com
reservations@playapalms.com
El Fogon
30th Ave. at 28th St.
Open 24 hours
Cash only
Babe’s Noodles & Bar
www.babesnoodlesandbar.com
Calle 10 between 5th & 10th Avenue
and 5th Avenue between Calle 28 and 30
La Tarraya Restaurant/Bar
Calle 2 Norte
Open Noon – 9 pm
note:
credit cards not accepted
Photos: Mike & Ginny Ripley and Playa Palms Resort
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