Travellady MagazineTM


Cigars, Spas and Serendipity

By Margaret Deefholts

It has been an unusual day. I’ve replenished body, mind and spirit, having done four things I’ve never done before. And as a bonus, I’ve spent the entire time in one of my favourite places in the Greater Vancouver region: Steveston

Steveston village which is part of the City of Richmond has drawn me back time and again. I’ve explored its shops, its cafes, its parks, and its surrounding waters. I’ve listened to tales about the lives of its people—fishermen, dockyard hands, and the men and women who once worked in the canneries. From the late 1800s to a couple of decades after World War II, the fishing boats returned to Steveston, their decks seething with silver-scaled salmon. Although the fishing industry has since fallen on difficult times, Steveston continues to be Canada’s largest commercial fishing harbour.

Yet, despite the presence of boat storage marinas and industrial docks, the village still retains the folksy charm of a small fishing community, where seasonal catches of bass, cod, halibut and, of course, salmon, are offered for sale at the waterfront. The streets are flanked by  a variety of boutiques, craft and gift shops, and one of the perks of being a journalist on the prowl is chatting to store owners about their products and, in some instances, being invited to sample their merchandise.

So here I am at Robusto—Premium Cigars and Coffee, at eleven o’clock in the morning listening to owner Tom Orange, talk about the history and traditions of the cigar industry. Contrary to what I’d always believed, Cuba is not the world’s largest producer of cigars; that distinction belongs to the Dominican Republic. I’m also surprised to hear that the industry is controlled by a few elite family-run corporations, and that it isn’t unusual for business deals to be made on the strength of a handshake. Furthermore, cigars are not, as I’d assumed, the sole preserve of macho males for, as Tom hastens to assure me, his customers include several women aficionados. And what sort of cigars do they usually select? A popular choice is a Torano brand product called Sweet Nostalgia, and would I like to try one? An irresistible offer. Tom demonstrates how to clip one end, char the other, and lighting it, he finally hands over the slim, pale brown cigar. “Don’t inhale,” he cautions. “This isn’t a cigarette! Just swirl the smoke gently through your throat and nostrils.” Sweet Nostalgia tastes faintly like sugared cinnamon, (the tips are soaked in sugarcane juice as part of the manufacturing process) but the tobacco aroma is rich and full-bodied. It gives me a pleasant buzz.

Raintree Day Spa is next on my list. I’ve never been to anything as sophisticated as a spa, and while I’m curious about Swedish massages, Shiatsu and La Stone therapy treatments, I’m also a bit skittish. My skin is innocent of anything other than plain old soap and water, and my idea of pampering my bod is to occasionally immerse it in one of those rather cloying perfumed bath crystals displayed on hotel vanity counters. Notwithstanding my doubts, an hour later my skin is smoother than a rose petal, and I feel as sensuous and slinky as Cleopatra emerging from her bath of asses’ milk. I have been treated to a full-body aromatherapy exfoliation accompanied by a Vichy rain shower massage, and rubbed all over with a Shea butter moisturizer.  While their Fountain of Youth facial would, in my case, be wishful thinking (or a miraculous transformation), I’ll certainly be back for a “heavenly manicure” or an “aromatherapy pedicure”.

Serene and relaxed as a smiling Buddha, I saunter along the waterfront, and contemplate the dove-grey sky and wind-rippled waters of the Fraser River. In the summer the colours are strong and vibrant; today in January, the near-deserted boardwalk and the pale afternoon light lends the scene a gentle melancholy…as if the village is mourning the passing of sun-filled days and the throngs of visitors with their dogs, their kids, their bright chatter and laughter.

If the outdoor world is sombre, the walls of the Steveston Village Gallery are a riot of  colour—abstract paintings in cobalt, orange and purple, charcoal sketches, and bold designs painted on glass. I linger, as one does in a museum, marvelling at a translucent porcelain bowl which glows as if lit by embers from within, and pause in front of elongated copper figurines frozen in a ballet of elegance and grace. Owner Tamaka Fisher, has enduring family ties to Steveston—her grandfather was a fisherman who lived and worked in the village, and, as an artist herself, she felt that the time had come to establish a commercial art gallery (the only one of its kind in Steveston) showcasing local talent. The gallery also runs a series of art classes and Tamaka urges me to try my hand at painting a small square of canvas, in order to, as she puts it, “awaken my dormant creativity.” I pick up a brush, swirl it in emerald green acrylic paint, and take a shot at producing a Christmas tree, adding a gold star at the top by way of embellishment. Tamaka maintains a tactful silence, but it’s evident that the artist within me is in deep, if not permanent, hibernation. I figure it’s time to move on.

Into the realm of the soul. At Serendipity’s Backyard, the music is soothing and the shelves are stacked with books on yoga, meditation, inspirational healing and spiritual guidance. I peer at CDs of Indian ragas, at shimmering crystals, sacred rocks and other aids to attaining heightened awareness. The two owners, Shannon Sorensen and Deb McDonald aren’t merely running a business—they are sharing their own journey of spiritual discovery with their clientele. My fourth never-done-this-before experience comes in the shape of a Taro card reading. I shake my head ruefully at the results but perk up when Shannon gives me a quick lesson in belly-dancing. I hip-strut, and the coins on my sash shimmer and ‘jingle’. Customers pause, their eyes widening in incredulity—a grey-haired mama belly-dancing? ‘If she can,’ I hear them thinking, ‘heck I can too!’ And so they should—at Swara InSpiritations next door!

Out on the street again, the early dusk of winter has closed in. Moncton Street is still wearing its Yuletide season finery: spangles of gold, sapphire, emerald and ruby lights are suspended like jewelled fishing nets above the road. The afternoon face of the village has disappeared; it is no longer forlorn. Families with their kids, grandkids, and pets are out…laughing, chatting, pausing before gaily decorated windows and sipping hot chocolate at sidewalk cafes.

At Papi’s Ristorante Italiano, the aroma of seafood is seductive and I round off my series of unique experiences by dining on wild salmon and prawns steamed in fig leaves, drizzled with date and anise seed vinaigrette. It’s the perfect finale to a perfect day.

Photo credits
1. Steveston landscape images: Courtesy Dave Kemp: www.pictureperfect.nu 
2. Other miscellaneous images: courtesy: Richmond Tourism, Raintree Day Spa, Steveston Village Gallery, Serendipity’s Backyard and Margaret Deefholts 

Getting There:
By car, Steveston is a forty-minute drive from downtown Vancouver. For detailed information on public transport schedules/rates contact TransLink at http://www.translink.bc.ca/ or phone them at 604-953-3333

Contact information on the four retailers mentioned in the article.
Robusto - Premium Cigars & Coffee
#160-13020 No. 2 Road, Richmond.
Contact Elton Walker.
Ph: 604-448-5485
e-mail: info@nuestrafamilia.ca
Website: http://www.nuestrafamilia.ca/

Raintree Day Spa
#125 - 13020 No. 2 Road, Richmond
Contact Barbara Bell
Ph: 604-274-4426
e-mail: info@raintreedayspa.com
Website: http://www.raintreedayspa.com/

Steveston Village Gallery
#125 - 3900 Bayview Street, Richmond
Contact: Tamaka Fisher
Ph: 604-241-5771
e-mail: contactus@stevestonvillagegallery.com
Website: http://www.stevestonvillagegallery.com/

Serendipity’s Backyard
120-12031 First Avenue, Richmond
Contact: Deb McDonald or Shannon Sorenson
Ph: 604-275-1683
Website: http://www.serendipitysbackyard.ca/

Aside from the above, Steveston offers the discerning shopper a diversity of designer jewellery, curios, crafts, clothing and more. Take a look at the village newsletter for the latest information at http://www.steveston.bc.ca/newsletter.html

Fine Dining:
Steveston abounds in excellent restaurants. However, if looking for gourmet Italian cuisine, Papi’s Ristorante Italiano, deserves its prime rating as Steveston’s best restaurant. Book ahead. It’s usually packed.

Papi’s Ristorante Italiano
12251 No. 1 Road, Richmond
Contact: Ken Iaci
Ph: 604-275-8355
e-mail: keniaci@hotmail.com
Website: http://www.papis.ca/

General:
For further visitor information about Richmond contact:

Tourism Richmond
#205 South Tower,
5811 Cooney Road,
Richmond BC V6X 3M1
Ph: 604-821-5474
e-mail: admin@tourismrichmond.com
Website: http://www.tourismrichmond.com/

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