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When in Rome — or England

Exploring the Roman ruins of Hadrian’s Wall

By Marilyn Loeser

Heading northwest from Hartlepool, it took just over an hour to reach Hadrian’s Wall, stretching the breadth of England nearly 2,000 years after it was built. From Wallsend-on-Tyne in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west, the wall is a 73.5 mile monument to what was the Roman Empire.

Emperor Hadrian ordered its construction, most likely during his visit to Britain in AD 122. Although Hadrian’s biographer wrote the wall’s purpose was to keep out the barbarians, it’s also theorized Hadrian wanted to mark the northern most border of the Roman Empire.

The Wall was a sophisticated piece of engineering. Milecastles stood every mile along the wall. They are still easily identifiable as you pass by, traveling along highways running near the wall. Milecastles were guarded by at least eight men and in between each milecastle were two equally distanced towers where sentries kept watch, making it easy to monitor movement of goods, people and animals crossing the frontier. Control was strengthened even more when large forts were built along the wall, serving as crossing points. Around them grew civilian settlements. And on both sides of the wall were deep defensive ditches serving as addition barriers.

By the early 400s, with the Empire in decline and Britain becoming cut off from Rome, frontier defenses were neglected. Soldiers left, settlement patterns changed and many of the wall's stones were used to build houses, walls and churches.

It was only relatively recently that interest in the Wall as an archaeological monument took place. What we see today is all that remains of the Roman structure.

Chesters Roman Fort Cilurnum

Our day of exploration began at Chesters Roman Fort Cilurnum, the best preserved Roman Cavalry Fort in Britain.

Fortunate for history hunters, John Clayton was fascinated by the ruins. He exposed the fort and established a small museum for his finds after his father had covered it all up years before in the early 1800s. John’s father Nathaniel, then owner of Chesters House and Estate, covered the last remains of the fort as part of his parkland landscaping using hundreds of tons of soil to create a smooth uninterrupted grassland slope down to the River Tyne.

John also made excavations at Housesteads Fort, Carrawborough Mithraic Temple, Carvoran and other Roman sites, devoting himself part-time to archaeology.

The Chester site museum today, albeit small, is filled with relics collected over the centuries. From coins and signet rings to carvings and tools, the museum is organized and objects are labeled in a way to make it easy to understand their meaning in the scope of the 2,000 year old British and Roman history.

Although the day was bitterly cold, the sun was bright and we walked through areas where soldiers were housed, treasures secure and meetings held. It’s easy to make out the Commandant's House with its brick pillars and under floor hot air heating system.

Housesteads Roman Fort

From Chesters, we traveled to Housesteads Roman Fort, the best preserved example in Britain.

Winds whipped through the grassland as we climbed up the precipice toward the remains. Built around AD124, it’s location in this isolated area adds to the realism of what took place here.

The fort’s dramatic position, and the fact it retains much of its original plan, makes it one of the most visited sites along the wall.

Through the entrance, there is a small museum and gift shop, and then back out into the winter chill and a short walk toward what was the original south gate.

Additional wings were built on the original fort in the third century. By using your imagination and reading information on plaques near each section of the fort, it’s easy to feel the presence of so many souls — military and civilian — spending their lives in or near the confines of the stone citadel.

Remnants of an advanced civilization making the best of their lot in the wilderness can be greatly understood by walking among the ruins of what once were a hospital, courtyard, barracks and houses.

At Chesters, we saw the wall, but at Housestead, we were able to walk along the top and look north toward Scotland, some 70 miles away.

If you go:
Visiting Hadrian’s Wall, my husband and I chose Hartlepool as our base. Perched on the North Sea and close to major tourist draws, Hartlepool also has been chosen as the finishing point for the Sail Training International and will welcome up to 125 tall ships in 2010.

We stayed at the Grand Hotel, situated in the heart of town.

Built in 1900 in the style of a French Chateau, guests will find many of its original features including gorgeous plasterwork, stained glass windows and ornate woodworking.

For more information check the website at www.grandhotelhartlepool.co.uk.

There is an admission fee at Chesters and Housestead. The Great British Heritage Pass is your best bet if you plan to visit several historic attractions. The pass allows entry into nearly 600 attractions in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland including Hadrian’s Wall sites.

For more information check the website www.gbheritagepass.com.

Although you’ll need local transportation to visit any of the wall sites, I highly recommend using BritRail to move around England. For more information contact your travel agent, call 1-866-BRITRAIL or check the website at www.britrail.com.

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