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Roanoke Island

Tranquility & Mystery

By Linda Aksomitis

I was ready for relaxation and pampering, and, after a particularly cold Saskatchewan spring, some hot Southern temperatures. Packing my bags for North Carolina’s Roanoke Island, I hoped I’d selected the right trip…

I was drawn to the area by the mystery of the lost colony, that very first settlement of women and children who arrived in 1587 from England. What I didn’t expect to find, however, were things like the Elizabethan Gardens and fabulous outdoor theatre. In fact, I had a lot to learn about Roanoke Island.

I’d chosen The Tranquil House Inn on Queen Elizabeth Street in Manteo—and was extremely pleased with what I found on my arrival. My room was spacious, with a king sized bed and full couch not even taking up half of the area. Spreading my things around I dropped down to relax. It already felt great to be on holidays.

Checking the time, however, I decided to make my way up to the complimentary wine and cheese hour on the second floor. Rather than interrupting the group who were visiting, I opened my book, settled into a reclining chair on the immense upper deck, and enjoyed not only the food, but also a view of the marina below me.

The hotel’s location in downtown Manteo was perfect for all of my evening activities. I strolled the boardwalk along the waterfront, enjoying the cool breeze before wandering through the downtown area for a supper spot. The Full Moon Café, just a short distance away, seemed like a good choice, especially after my Portabella Mushroom Quesadilla arrived. However, I made sure I left a little room for carrot cake for dessert!

After taking the first evening slowly, I was energized to begin my journey of discovery the next day. It seemed logical to begin with Roanoke Island Festival Park, where I could visit the museum, plus the living history outdoor exhibits. I’d already been admiring the Elizabeth II ship replica from the balcony of the hotel, so decided to start there.

Each of the exhibits in Festival Park are manned by actors playing roles based on the original inhabitants from the lost colony. On board the ship a young sailor answered all of my questions about the Elizabeth II, her crew, and how sailing it might have been—in fact, the ship is sea-worthy and does make a trip each year.

The first colonists, 110 men, women, and children, arrived on Roanoke Island on July 22, 1587, after sailing for more than two months. Without many supplies and needing to build a settlement, the colonists faced numerous hardships. On August 27, 1587, the Governor, John White, sailed back to England to get what they required, leaving them to settle into the new land.

After leaving the ship I wandered through the Settlement Site, which provided a fascinating glimpse of life for the colonists. Some of the things I saw came as a complete surprise, like the tents—which looked like they could have come out of medieval England instead of North America. Compared to modern tents, they seem more in line with circuses than temporary shelters for colonists more than four hundred years ago!

The museum was very informative, providing me with the evidence modern archaeologists have assembled to explain the mystery of the lost colonists of Roanoke Island. It prepared me for the evening performance of The Lost Colony in Manteo’s Waterside Theatre.

The Lost Colony is a symphonic drama that recreates the historical event. Performed since 1937 this is America’s premier outdoor drama, and was written by the Pulitzer Prizewinner, Paul Green. With a cast of dozens, the story comes to life through the use of intricate sets, costumes, and musical arrangements. Under the cover of night the focus onstage shifts from side to side, creating scenes as diverse as the villagers from Manteo’s tribe to Queen Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh.

The background of the story—why Queen Elizabeth didn’t respond to John White and Sir Walter Raleigh’s request to send help immediately to the colonists—became clear through another play I watched, Elizabeth R. This one-woman show staring Miss Barbara Hird, a native of Yorkshire, England, has been running on Roanoke Island since 1993.

This play is performed at a centre in the Elizabethan Gardens, complete with costumed courtiers to guide you. I spent an hour before the event wandering the formal gardens, enjoying the masses of flowering plants, shrubbery, and stately trees, including visiting the statue of Virginia Dare.

Virginia Dare was the first European child born in America, but her life story has never been told since all evidence of her disappeared with the other colonists. Maria Louisa Lander, a sculptor, created a statue of how Virginia might have appeared as a young woman, in 1859, after reading the lost colony story in a British museum.  Today the statue is a prized part of the Elizabethan Gardens.

Full of history and unique character, Roanoke Island’s story is one that will likely be debated for years to come. But I, like Lander, imagine that Virginia Dare did indeed come of age somewhere in America and that her descendents smile softly when they consider the mystery of the Lost Colony…

Photo credits to Linda Aksomitis

Contact information for Roanoke Island:
Outer Banks Visitors Bureau
One Visitors Center Circle
Manteo, NC  27954
Phone: 877-298-4373  Fax: 252-473-5777
Website: www.outerbanks.com

Information on taking this trip:

Tranquil House Inn -- http://www.1587.com/index.htm

Roanoke Island Guide to Restaurants -- http://www.roanokeisland.net/restaurants_manteo.htm 

Manteo on Roanoke Island, North Carolina -- http://www.outerbanks.com/manteo/

Roanoke Island Festival Park -- http://www.roanokeisland.com/

The Elizabethan Gardens -- http://www.outerbanks.com/elizabethangardens/

The Lost Colony (Symphonic drama) -- http://www.thelostcolony.org/

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