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Roanoke Island
Tranquility & Mystery
By Linda Aksomitis
I was ready for relaxation and
pampering, and, after a particularly cold Saskatchewan spring, some hot
Southern temperatures. Packing my bags for North Carolina’s Roanoke Island,
I hoped I’d selected the right trip…
I was drawn to the area by the
mystery of the lost colony, that very first settlement of women and children
who arrived in 1587 from England. What I didn’t expect to find, however,
were things like the Elizabethan Gardens and fabulous outdoor theatre. In
fact, I had a lot to learn about Roanoke Island.
I’d chosen The Tranquil House Inn on
Queen Elizabeth Street in Manteo—and was extremely pleased with what I found
on my arrival. My room was spacious, with a king sized bed and full couch
not even taking up half of the area. Spreading my things around I dropped
down to relax. It already felt great to be on holidays.
Checking the time, however, I
decided to make my way up to the complimentary wine and cheese hour on the
second floor. Rather than interrupting the group who were visiting, I opened
my book, settled into a reclining chair on the immense upper deck, and
enjoyed not only the food, but also a view of the marina below me.
The hotel’s location in downtown
Manteo was perfect for all of my evening activities. I strolled the
boardwalk along the waterfront, enjoying the cool breeze before wandering
through the downtown area for a supper spot. The Full Moon Café, just a
short distance away, seemed like a good choice, especially after my
Portabella Mushroom Quesadilla arrived. However, I made sure I left a little
room for carrot cake for dessert!
After taking the first evening
slowly, I was energized to begin my journey of discovery the next day. It
seemed logical to begin with Roanoke Island Festival Park, where I could
visit the museum, plus the living history outdoor exhibits. I’d already been
admiring the Elizabeth II ship replica from the balcony of the hotel, so
decided to start there.
Each of the exhibits in Festival
Park are manned by actors playing roles based on the original inhabitants
from the lost colony. On board the ship a young sailor answered all of my
questions about the Elizabeth II, her crew, and how sailing it might have
been—in fact, the ship is sea-worthy and does make a trip each year.
The first colonists, 110 men, women,
and children, arrived on Roanoke Island on July 22, 1587, after sailing for
more than two months. Without many supplies and needing to build a
settlement, the colonists faced numerous hardships. On August 27, 1587, the
Governor, John White, sailed back to England to get what they required,
leaving them to settle into the new land.
After leaving the ship I wandered
through the Settlement Site, which provided a fascinating glimpse of life
for the colonists. Some of the things I saw came as a complete surprise,
like the tents—which looked like they could have come out of medieval
England instead of North America. Compared to modern tents, they seem more
in line with circuses than temporary shelters for colonists more than four
hundred years ago!
The museum was very informative,
providing me with the evidence modern archaeologists have assembled to
explain the mystery of the lost colonists of Roanoke Island. It prepared me
for the evening performance of The Lost Colony in Manteo’s Waterside
Theatre.
The Lost Colony is a symphonic drama
that recreates the historical event. Performed since 1937 this is America’s
premier outdoor drama, and was written by the Pulitzer Prizewinner, Paul
Green. With a cast of dozens, the story comes to life through the use of
intricate sets, costumes, and musical arrangements. Under the cover of night
the focus onstage shifts from side to side, creating scenes as diverse as
the villagers from Manteo’s tribe to Queen Elizabeth and Sir Walter Raleigh.
The background of the story—why
Queen Elizabeth didn’t respond to John White and Sir Walter Raleigh’s
request to send help immediately to the colonists—became clear through
another play I watched, Elizabeth R. This one-woman show staring Miss
Barbara Hird, a native of Yorkshire, England, has been running on Roanoke
Island since 1993.
This play is performed at a centre
in the Elizabethan Gardens, complete with costumed courtiers to guide you. I
spent an hour before the event wandering the formal gardens, enjoying the
masses of flowering plants, shrubbery, and stately trees, including visiting
the statue of Virginia Dare.
Virginia Dare was the first
European child born in America, but her life story has never been told since
all evidence of her disappeared with the other colonists. Maria Louisa
Lander, a sculptor, created a statue of how Virginia might have appeared as
a young woman, in 1859, after reading the lost colony story in a British
museum. Today the statue is a prized part of the Elizabethan Gardens.
Full of history and unique
character, Roanoke Island’s story is one that will likely be debated for
years to come. But I, like Lander, imagine that Virginia Dare did indeed
come of age somewhere in America and that her descendents smile softly when
they consider the mystery of the Lost Colony…
Photo credits to Linda Aksomitis
Contact information for Roanoke
Island:
Outer Banks Visitors Bureau
One Visitors Center Circle
Manteo, NC 27954
Phone: 877-298-4373 Fax: 252-473-5777
Website:
www.outerbanks.com
Information on taking this trip:
Tranquil House Inn --
http://www.1587.com/index.htm
Roanoke Island Guide to Restaurants
--
http://www.roanokeisland.net/restaurants_manteo.htm
Manteo on Roanoke Island, North
Carolina --
http://www.outerbanks.com/manteo/
Roanoke Island Festival Park --
http://www.roanokeisland.com/
The Elizabethan Gardens --
http://www.outerbanks.com/elizabethangardens/
The Lost Colony (Symphonic drama) --
http://www.thelostcolony.org/
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