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Switzerland’s Riviera

By Caroline M. Jackson

The Canton of Ticino – a balmy slice of Switzerland where ‘Buongiorno’ and ‘Ciao’ are everyday greetings; a place where pizza, polenta and pasta are served in sun-drenched piazzas; a canton whose southern toes are bathed in the warm waters of Lake Lugano and Lake Maggiore.

Our train journey from German-speaking central Switzerland to Locarno in Italian-speaking Ticino was an exciting experience in itself. From Spiez, we took the smooth ultra-modern Cisalpino express south to Domodossala in Italy. Here we climbed aboard the Centovallina-railway which cuts due east through a swathe of northern Italy and back into Switzerland. Inaugurated in 1923, this spectacular 90-minute train ride wends its way through 34 tunnels and traverses 83 bridges over deep gorges and rushing waterfalls. The unspoiled Centovalli (Valley of a hundred Valleys) with its picturesque mountain villages is  popular with hikers and bikers. In 1860 nearly one third of the population of Ticinese lived in hamlets located at an altitude of more than 600 meters. Now, less than seven percent live in these areas. Of special renown is the medieval village of Intragna. Its narrow stepped streets lead up to a Baroque church housing fine mural paintings. Later, in the nearby town of Verdasio, we accompanied the local mailman and his dog in the tiny chairlift up to the mountain village of Rasa.

After walking among the beautifully restored stone houses, we stopped for a light repast at Grotto Ghiridone. Grottos are authentic family-run country taverns. Sitting in the welcome shade of a canopy of intertwined vines, we were served a slice of brown bread with a generous portion of moist goat cheese. This was washed down with a glass of Castegna (chestnut) beer.  Afterwards we meandered through chestnut groves and along well marked paths that opened up to give spectacular views of  the valley.

Originally founded by the Romans and named ‘Lucurnum’, Locarno has a lovely setting on the northern end of the azure waters of Lake Maggiore. It is the lowest town in Switzerland and occasionally suffers some flooding. However, its unique geographic setting means that Locarno can genuinely claim to be one of Switzerland’s sunniest spots. The promenade is fringed with palm trees and trellises spill over with oleanders, wisteria, mimosa and bougainvillea. This area once belonged to Lombardy and on our first walk around town, we came across the 14thc. Castle once owned by the wealthy Milanese Visconti family. A lovely place to tarry is in the spacious Piazza Grande with its shopping arcades and plethora of colorful cafes. It is here that every August Locarno attracts thousands of visitors to its world-famous International Film Festival.

On our first morning we visited one of the produce markets where local farmers  were delighted to show us their fresh products – jars of pesto, packets of dried herbs, salsa, Brissago honey, vinegar and Nocino, a  walnut liqueur. One vendor asked if I would like to try a sip of his Limoncina (lemon) drink. It looked innocent enough until the fiery drink hit the back of my throat. He laughed and boasted that it was 54% proof. Only the north-east corner of Lake Maggiore is in Switzerland, but the frequent lake boats operated by an Italian company, Navigazione Lago Maggiore, enable visitors to cruise along the lake to lakeside hideaways. My favorite was the nearby village of Ascona which over the years has been a drawing card for writers, painters and celebrities.

Once a fishing village, a walk along the cobbled streets of the Old Town with its crafts centre and art galleries is fascinating. A highlight is the Coliegio Pontifico Papia  which boasts a beautiful Renaissance courtyard. The adjacent church is well worth a visit with its 15th century frescoes. After meandering along the alleys, we headed towards the water and walked under the shade of the 80-year old plane trees which line the lake front. Attracted by its orange umbrellas, we stopped at the Osteria Nostrana where we enjoyed a delicious lunch. Fellow diners were dressed in chic outfits and businessmen were as guilty of people watching as I was except that they did it with more panache from behind sunglasses or newspapers discreetly held at eyebrow level.

After our repast, it was time to take a gentle boat ride from Ascona to the Isles of Brissago, a unique collection of rare plants and flowers collected from four corners of the globe. Very popular with European visitors, walking along the island trails and breathing in the delicate floral scents, was a restful way to while away an afternoon. Of particular interest to me was the bead tree, the seeds of which are made into rosaries, the cork oak, the castor oil plants and the prickly pears gardens. While waiting for the next boat to take us back to the mainland, we enjoyed a gelato on the verandah of the early 20thcentury villa.

By the time we returned to our base in Locarno, it was early evening and the perfect time to take the funicular up to the Pilgrimage church of Madonna del Sasso (Madonna of the Rock).

It was here in 1480 that a Franciscan monk had a vision of the Virgin Mary thus prompting a beautiful chapel to be built on the site. After chatting with a friendly Franciscan priest, we continued upwards by modern cable car to Cardada which is set in cool fragrant pine woods. The blue daytime heat haze had lifted and we had fantastic views south over the Lake Maggiore.

The following day, we took the train to the city of Lugano which has a prime position on the shores of Lake Lugano. Its train station, as is the case of other lake towns, is situated well above the Old Town so that it cannot be touched by floodwaters. The innovative Swiss have thankfully provided a little funicular which whisks people down to the lake-level piazzas. Lugano is a key financial centre and its prices are correspondingly high. However, it was fun to window shop and look at all the chic fashions from Milan and poke our  heads into the confisseries which display exquisitely crafted pastries and chocolate confections.

The Neoclassical city hall dominates the Piazza Riforma in the center of town and is pedestrian friendly. From here, we walked along Via Nassa (fishing net street) where once upon a time, the fisherman used to hang out their nets to dry. Our destination was St. Mary of the Angels Church. This church is renowned for three well-preserved frescoes by the Lombard painter, Bernardino Luini - The Last Supper and The Crucifixion which dates from 1529. If you don’t have a guide with you, eavesdrop on one of the visiting tour party’s explanations of these masterpieces.

As lunch-time approached, we meandered along the lakeside towards the pier where we caught a ferry to the tiny village of Gandria.

Nestling at the foot of Mount Bre, the houses are so tightly stacked together that most residents rely solely on boat access. As we climbed up the shady stepped streets, we passed leafy bowers, terracotta pots spilling over with flowering cacti and bougainvillea. Near the small Baroque church we found the perfect place for lunch at the Locando Gandriese restaurant.

Our table was perched on a wrought iron balcony overlooking the sparkling lake below. Our meal of pumpkin soup, fresh trout and mouthwatering apple strudel was all homemade and delicious. Between courses, we drank in the view and watched the white boats zigzag between ports. For me the setting was surreal and I truly felt as if I was part of a picture postcard. After tarrying over our cappuccinos, it was time for a little exercise. Conveniently, there is a beautiful lakeshore path which meanders all the way to Castagnola.

Known as the Olive Tree Path, it is well marked and en route, there are several plaques explaining the importance and history of olives in the region. From Castagnola, we caught a local bus for the short return trip to Lugano.

Just a 30 minute train journey north of Lugano, is the canton’s capital, Bellinzona. I, like many visitors, have passed through this town on several occasions, but until now had never stopped to explore this historic city. Located at the southern end of two Alpine passes, the St. Gotthard and San Bernardino, Bellinzona’s strategic location on the north-south route between Switzerland and Italy, has embroiled the town in a stormy history dating back to Roman times. Until the 14th century, Ticino was a part of Lombardy and it was only after much bloodshed that it emerged as an independent Swiss Canton in 1803. Looming over the city are three impressive medieval castles which are registered as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Situated on a rocky outcrop, Castelgrande is the biggest of the three and can conveniently be accessed by lift from the Piazza del Sole. Entrance to this ancient castle and archaeological museum is free. The well-manicured grounds are perfect for a picnic and on the day of our visit, a class of school children were re-enacting a historic event complete with costumes and wooden hobby horses.

On the opposite outcrop is Castello di Montebello with working drawbridges and ramparts. The views from here were breathtaking with Bellinzona spread out on the valley floor between hillsides swathed in picturesque vineyards.

Later, we were to enjoy some local Ticinese Merlot – a claret wine in the shady Grottino Ticinese back down in Bellinzona.

Before leaving the area, we decided to visit one of the nearby mountain villages which we had seen depicted in brochures and postcards. From Monte-Carazzo we took the Mornera cable car up to Curzutt.

In the four-person gondola, we were unexpectedly joined by a local shepherd, 78-year-old Zamm, his dog and meowing cat.

Zamm had apparently spent his life in the area and was going to join his eight cows and twelve goats in higher pastures. Just as we were about to depart, another local character flung a heavy five gallon plastic container into the ski rack holder behind me. The outside label said “highly flammable” and I thought about the hot sun beating down upon us. But it was too late, we were already swinging above the steep hillside blanketed in chestnut trees which are prolific in Ticino. Apparently the chestnuts are a staple and can be boiled, roasted, dried and even made into wine and beer. Zamm was heading further up the mountain, but we dismounted near the settlement of Curzutt which was home to 750 people in 1700’s. Over the centuries as in the case of many Ticinese mountain villages, it suffered a long-term decline. However, thanks to local enthusiasm and an injection of over two million Swiss Francs from the government, Curzutt now has special governmental protection. The project will include restoration of the old stone houses, renewing the chestnut forests and planting an organic vineyard.

As we climbed past the old stone dwellings and through the chestnut groves, salamanders dashed across the sun-dappled paths. Soon we came to the highlight of our adventure, the picturesque San Barnard church. The cool interior exuded a quiet charm and the walls were adorned with splendid 15thc. frescoes. It seemed the perfect place to end our sojourn in this canton of many contrasts.