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KETCHUP FOR THE SOUL: SLATHERERS COMFORT THEMSELVES, THOSE BURGERS AND
HOT DOGS -- FIRST RED, NOW GREEN
By Marty Martindale

“Americans can eat garbage,
provided you sprinkle it liberally with
ketchup, mustard, chili sauce, tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper,
or any other condiment which destroys
the original flavor of the dish.”
Henry Miller, American writer (1891-1980)
Everybody knows someone who can’t take the first taste of
something new without demanding the ketchup. This red sauce is a very strong
habit, one laced with sugar and salt. People eat more than 12-million tons of
tomatoes every year in the United States alone. This is quite a contrast from
their beginnings in the U.S. when tomatoes were suspect and considered
poisonous.
In the 18th and 19th centuries ketchup was a term for any
spicy sauce which contained some amount of vinegar and sugar. Original ketchup
was not necessarily made from tomatoes but frequently made from mushrooms or
fish brine with herbs and spices. In other versions the main ingredient was
anchovy, oyster, lobster, walnut, kidney beans, cucumber, cranberry, lemon or
grape.
In early colonial America, 1620 – 1763, tomatoes were
considered poisonous as they are a member of the night-shade family. They were
grown as ornamentals and nick-named “love apples.” By the early 1800s a man
named Robert Johnson set out to dispel the poisonous tomato theory, and he ate a
basketful in his town square. Once crowds realized he didn’t die from them,
these red, expensive gems became a part of most everyone’s diet.
Latter-day ketchups were not always made from tomatoes.
Some are prepared from bananas, blueberries, a cumin-chipotle combination and
tomatoless ketchup is made from ground, cooked beet root and carrots. Each
recipe for these alternative ketchups call for some vinegar, sugar, maybe some
chopped onion and several selected herbs and spices. Today’s tomato ketchups are
usually made with ripened tomatoes, and basic ingredients are vinegar, sugar,
salt, allspice, cloves and cinnamon. Frequently onions, celery and other veggies
find their way in. Fussy hot dog consumers argue over ketchup. Officially it’s
considered the second most condiment for them with mustard top dog. Of late
homemade ketchup is on the upswing as is a challenge to ketchup in the form of
Spanish-origin salsas.
The peaceful argument for downright basics of “ketchup” and
“catsup,” continues, and it will not be solved here. The word, “catsup” was
first recorded in England 1690, by 1711 the form was “ketchup.” It travels more
than this, and the word has been battered around in many cultures: Cantonese
Chinese, it was ke-tsiap, in others it was “koechiap” or “ketsiap.” In Malaysian
it was “kchap,” the Dutch was “ketjap.”
Ketchup has some logistic peculiarities as well. Most of us
know it’s useless to pound on the bottom of a ketchup bottle to get the stuff
out. The approved, physically-scientific, method is to hold the bottle
horizontally to allow a little air down into the bottle, then lightly tape the
underside of the neck of the bottle and get some pretty good results. The
introduction of ketchup in polyethylene squeeze bottles made it easier to deal
with, so has wider-mouthed jars.
The fun just continues with ketchup. The
THE WORLD'S LARGEST CATSUP BOTTLE, attracts thousands of visitors each year
to Route 159, just south of downtown Collinsville, Illinois. Built in 1949, the
170-ft.-tall water tower was built by W.E. Caldwell Company for the G.S.
Suppiger catsup bottling plant. This is a happening place with a Summerfest
Birthday Party with racing cars and ketchup adorned tee shirts, posters, post
cards and baby rompers.
In 1981, at the urging of President Reagan, Congress
ordered the Department of Agriculture to allow federally-financed school lunch
programs to classify tomato ketchup as a vegetable!
Core, for years, red ketchup has been the order of the
slatherer’s day. However, late in 2001 the H. J. Heinz Company introduced their
new, green ketchup designed to dazzle their number one ketchup fans, the kids.
Kids love novelty they reasoned. Manufactured to taste no different, only
reflect a spinach-tone color, the mere difference in color evoked opinions from
adults in particular the new sauce “needed to taste” different, because the
color was different.”
The red sauce can work some minor miracles, as well. The
book,
EXTRAORDINARY USES FOR ORDINARY THINGS, explains how ketchup can
color-correct and re-nourish chlorine-weary hair. It also makes copper items
shine and keeps silver jewelry sparkling.
Though associated with “junk foods,” ketchup has some
merit. It contains no cholesterol, very low in saturated fat and is high in
potassium, riboflavin, vitamins A and C. Now in the 21st century, most anything
tomato contains beneficial lycopene and is considered a fortification against
cancer. What keeps ketchup out of the hands of most health food enthusiasts is
its reputation for being very high in sodium and sugar.
Probably more of a habit, other suggested usages:
-
Use whenever mustard is called for
-
Add a tablespoon, or so to soups, stews, casseroles,
even salad dressings.
-
Make shrimp red sauce from ketchup, fresh lemon juice
and horseradish.
-
Make a Russian dressing with ketchup, mayonnaise and
relish.
-
Usually a part of homemade barbecue sauce
-
Add to New England baked beans
© Marty Martindale, 2006, Largo FL
For companion articles see:
LITTLE KNOWN FACTS ABOUT FOODS YOU COOK AND EAT
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