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Cycling Historic RichmondA Soft Pedaling Vancouver AdventureBy Rick Millikan
Hard-packed South Dyke Trail winds inland along fences
sporting blackberry vines, around a box factory and into a riverside dog park.
History abounds. Dyke Road passes the restored London
Farmhouse (1906). Arriving in 1885, the Londons were first to build dykes and
farm on Lulu Island. Sometimes stopping to scrutinize the profuse flower
gardens, we snack at the picnic tables amidst the large lawn. Entering the
refurbished home, we pass from room to room to ooh and ah turn-of-the-century
furnishings. On weekend’s afternoon tea is served in its exquisite dining room.
Just beyond thriving cooperative vegetable patches stands McKinney House
(1914).
Skirting fish processing plants and a colourful boat harbour, we view boardwalks connecting a heritage L-shaped cannery (1889) converted into Britannia Shipyard in 1917, timeworn residences, boat works, and Murikami Visitor Centre. The restored home and boat sheds of the Murikami family reflect the industrious lifestyles of a burgeoning west coast Japanese population.
Nearby, Gulf of Georgia Cannery (1894) recreates a bygone era of west coast fishing with engaging exhibits and ever improving tour programs. At the mouth of the Fraser, Garry Point Park presents spectacular views, beaches and breezy fields for kite fliers. From Kuno (Japanese) Garden, a path encircles 39 grassy acres, passing the fishermen's memorial sculpture and heritage Scotch Pond moorage. West Dyke Trail borders Sturgeon Banks, bustling from spring to fall with raucous red-winged blackbirds. Gulf Island panoramas unfold along 5.5 kilometers. The trail parallels a canal home for turtles, carp, ducks and blue herons. Although manicured residences line most of the route, the vintage Steves’ family farmhouse remains beside pastureland where belted Galloway cattle contentedly graze. At the trail’s northern end, the thirty-five acre Terra Nova Natural Area provides field habitat for wintering owls and hawks. Newfoundlanders originally settled this area in 1890. Eastern roofs and side-bay windows distinguish five of their remaining homes near the mouth of the Fraser’s Middle Arm.
Minoru Park justifies a short detour north on Gilbert Road.
Heritage trees grow throughout the park. Planted on what was once the Brighouse
Estate, an American elm reaches 20 meters high, 40 meters wide at the crown.
Turning southward off Granville, we pedal onto tree-canopied Shell Road Trail. Emerging into quiet neighbourhoods, a paved Shell Road continues into a light industrial area. At this road’s end, we meander woodsy Horseshoe Slough Trail, crossing wooden bridges over a marshy waterway, soon arriving back at our car. Our circuit embraces 32.5 kilometers/21 miles of flat, intriguing terrain. If undaunted by traffic, consider two other fascinating starting points or further side trips. Shell Road accesses the one hundred acre Richmond Nature Park via Westminster Highway. A natural bog environment can be studied inside its rustic nature house, as well as experienced on trails and boardwalks through peat bogs that once covered more than 25 per cent of Richmond.
Take a Richmond soft pedal! Almost all eighty kilometers of dikes surrounding Lulu Island have been paved as quiet rural roads or developed as recreational trails. Whether new to cycling or out-of-shape, two-wheelers readily enjoy exploring this beautiful and very historic island city! Travel Suggestions: No bike? Dockside Steveston Seabreeze Adventures www.seabreezeadventures.ca offers various rentals as well as sells my book Traffic Life and passages on whale watch cruises. Check out Steveston’s many attractions (London Heritage Farm, Gulf Cannery Museum etc.) www.steveston.bc. For a sunny wharf seafood, consider Pajo’s Fish & Chips www.pajos.com. |
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Seeking a robust Vancouver adventure? Consider
soft-pedaling nearby Richmond’s surrounding dykes! Enjoy three hundred sixty
degree panoramas of majestic beauty along its friendly byways. Cycling provides
a great way to explore both its natural splendor and fascinating heritage.
Dedicated benches provide rest, respite and reflection. Take a picnic! Tables
line these extensive greenways. Bathrooms provide doggie bowls for thirsty
canine companions. This scenic island circuit is readily accessible. When
cycling from Vancouver airport, riders merge onto the trail off Number Two Road.
If you’re without a bike, comfortable rentals are available beside this
picturesque route in Steveston.
My wife and I usually set out on Dyke Road parking at
Horseshoe Slough. Following the main arm of the mighty Fraser, we watch this
working river, busy with boats, barges and ships. Farmlands spread north toward
the snowcapped coastal mountains. Just beyond Tilson/Gilmore Barn (1882) lies
Finn Slough. Posted and hand printed pages explain how fishermen from
Finland settled there over a century ago. Small gillnetters and motorboats lie
ready in the backwater. Weathered clapboard homes, boat sheds, derelict net
lofts, and a children’s day centre perch around this marshy habitat. Majestic
eagles sit atop surrounding cedars.
Cheery orange, yellow and blue canine sculptures welcome cyclists, day hikers
and pet owners unleashing their amiable mutts for frolic. Meanwhile, fishermen
patiently try their luck, casting out from the nearby pier. Silvery salmon leap
and spin by during spawning season.
Built from plans ordered through a Sears Roebuck Catalogue, the newest
owners moved their imposing Edwardian house there in 1993. Rebuilt London
Landing provides a fishing float as well as views of Steveston Island and
historic Cannery Channel. Within the adjacent BMX-park, dirt track stars
entertain appreciative audiences.
From here a new attractive waterfront park trail enters the
heart of Steveston. Shops, markets, galleries, and restaurants cluster around
Steveston Landing. Whale watching tours leave from its public fish sales float.
Shaded under colourful umbrellas, we enjoy fish and chips or frozen yogurt at
dockside tables. A block inland, Richmond’s first bank houses the historic
fishing village’s museum. Constructed in New Westminster, the bank was floated
to Steveston in 1906.
Cycling Middle Arm Trail atop the dyke enables ideal
viewing of diverse sea birds. On the opposite shore Vancouver International
Airport and the seaplane harbour swirls with “big bird” activity. Before
traveling under Number 2 Road Bridge, we turn southward taking the trail to
Lynas Lane, which connects us to the wide bicycle lane along Granville Avenue.
Huge rhododendrons and varieties of lilies encircle the beautiful Minoru Lakes.
Alongside these gorgeous gardens stands the island’s first church, Minoru Chapel
(1891). Proud descendants of Richmond’s original settlers commissioned its
spectacular stained glass windows.
Number Four Road from Finn Slough links a stunning Buddhist
Temple along Steveston Highway. Being shaped like the tongue of the dragon, this
island has attracted a sizable Chinese population considering it a most
fortunate location. One of Richmond’s two Buddhist temples, this site features a
wistfully landscaped garden simulating Buddhist paradise. Here statues of the
Buddha and his disciples peacefully reflect upon our roads to enlightenment.
