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Alsace Overview- Part One

By Darryl Beeson

Wines from Alsace come in bottles shaped in a manner to imply sweetness. Some are. Most have a captivating crispness to balance out whatever sweetness is present. often the floral character and the brilliant ripeness of the fruit can be confused with mere sweetness. These wines are overlooked in the market place and deserve more attention, especially for food pairings.

Albert Mann Muscat, Alsace 2001
Price       $16
Rating 89

Think wonderful flowers and luscious apricot influence in the nose, then flavors fully rounded fruit laced with flower petals. Though leaning towards sweetness, the crisp acidity keeps this wine in perfect balance.

This well regarded Alsace domaine is run by two brothers, Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé in the village of Wettolsheim, near Colmar. Maurice, who took over here in 1984, is married to the grand-daughter of the late Albert Mann who gave his name to the domaine. It's not a huge operation: they have 19 hectares in all, but five of these are in five different Grand Cru vineyards and a further two are in Lieux-dits. They've taken a quality-minded approach, and say all the right things about respect for the soil and the importance of low yields.

Domaine Albert Mann was rated by Robert Parker, Jr.'s The Wine Advocate in the top tier of Alsace producers, and the Domaine received a "star" rating in The Classement 2000 by the Revue du Vin de France.

Domaine Josmeyer Riesling "Le Kottabe" Alsace 2001
Price       $29
Rating 94

Aromas of green apple and mineral, then flavors of lightly baked green apple, sexy floral notes and other intriguing white fruit, ending with lemon crispness.

This venerable, family-run Alsace winery was founded in 1854, and is run today by Jean Meyer, chairman and general manager. Under Meyer's direction, Josmeyer is recognized for its large portfolio of wines showcasing the depth and breadth of the quality wines of Alsace. Meyer is also singled out for his flair for pairing food and wine in an unconventional fashion.

Domaine Josmeyer Pinot Gris "Le Fromenteau" Alsace 2000
Price       $29
Rating 93

Aromas of earthy green apple, spice, baked bread, then flavors of soft ripe white fruit, limestone, hazelnut and delicate citrus/floral.

"I don't believe I have met another winemaker more capable of pinpointing and conveying the subtleties of flavor in wine than owner Jean Meyer," wrote Steve Tanzer in International Wine Cellar. In fact, Meyer readily pairs his wines with virtually any type of cuisine. "When I'm in Japan, I serve Japanese food with my wine. In America, I enjoy American cuisine. I always have a wine to pair, no matter what type of food is served," says Meyer.

Domaine Josmeyer Pinot Auxerrois "H" Alsace 2001
Price       $40
Rating 94

Jean Josmeyer has registered the "H" to designate his 50-60 year old auxerrois vines in his respected Hengst vineyard. Both French and American ampelographers have determined that the pinot auxerrois grape and chardonnay are separate clones that share their parentage.

There are aromas of lemon peel, floral and mineral, then flavors of dry appple and other white fruit with an intriguing nuttiness. The wine has a rich feel on the palate. For more information, go to www.paternowines.com/wines/france/josmeyer. 

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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