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Sebastiani- History Steeped in Wine

By Darryl Beeson

The history of Sebastiani Vineyards goes back to 1825. "In that year, the Franciscan fathers of nearby mission San Francisco Solano, assisted by local native Americans, first cleared and planted land for their vineyards. These vineyards are among the oldest vineyard sites in northern California. They were acquired in 1904 by Samuele Sebastiani, the founder of our family winery, who immigrated from the wine producing region of Tuscany, Italy in 1895," explains winemaker Mark Lyon.

"Samuele's story is an interesting one. When he first arrived in California, like most immigrants of the time, he literally had nothing but the clothes on his back. He began working at odd jobs and finally saved enough money to purchase a horse and wagon, which he used to haul cobblestones from a quarry in the hill behind Sonoma. The stones were used to help pave the streets of San Francisco. By 1904, with the money he saved from this enterprise he was able to buy land, our original stone winery, and grow grapes. He began making fine Sonoma Valley wine, a craft he learned before immigrating to America," adds Lyon.

Sebastiani "Cherry Block" Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma 2001
Price $59
Rating 96
"Our Cherryblock Estate Vineyard derived its namesake from the cherry orchard our founder Samuele Sebastiani first planted on the property in 1919," explains winemaker Lyon. "The Cherryblock Estates now are comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The soil of this estate is well-drained, reddish-brown volcanic ash. Volcanic soil is extremely rich in minerals and has a pH level, which allows the vines to absorb the essential nutrients and therefore thrive under rocky, dry conditions. Our 83 years of experience with the soil and climate of this vineyard has allowed us to match the most appropriate rootstocks and clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. This block of Cabernet Sauvignon was planted in 1962, using high quality clones on phylloxera-resistant St. George rootstock. This vineyard has always been renowned for producing consistently superior Cabernet, but we feel now, with the application of our experience and improved farming techniques, Cherryblock is producing its best."

"The Vintage 2001 started off cool in springtime with a below average crop set. The bloom cycle had moderate temperatures, which allowed for an even set and even maturity of the fruit. An Indian Summer kicked-in the last week of September, setting the stage for full flavor and color maturity. The Malbec was picked first, followed by the Merlot in the first week of October. Then the Cabernet was picked in mid-October. We have never had such an ideal crop size, nice and light, with small berries and full maturity. In short, a great year for Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma County. The wine is concentrated with blackberry aromas enhanced by earthy truffle, oak complexity and classic cassis chords. The flavor is concentrated with blackberry and black cherry fruit with a "slight dusty, wood flavor....all integrating into an opulent-style with balance and added elegance imparted by the Merlot. The finish has ripe, mouth-coating tannins and lingering berry flavor," observes Lyon.

Sebastiani Merlot, Sonoma 2000
Price $16
Rating 93
"The Merlot grapes for this wine were harvested from Bedford Ranch in the Dry Creek Valley, Rancho Miguel Ranch and Lyon Vineyards in the Alexander Valley, Batto Ranch and Madrone Ranch from Sonoma Valley, and our own Estate Merlot from Picnic Block in the Carneros," explains winemaker Lyons. "The combination of fruit from all these esteemed sub-appellations of Sonoma County make for a very unique and complex wine."

"The dark crimson red color is unusually darker than past Sonoma Merlot's. The aromas consist of blueberry and black cherry fruit with high tones of vanilla and char from the barrels. Your mouth will delight in the vanilla and mocha flavors coupled with bigger, jammier fruit with greater tannins and acidity, which is so characteristic of the fruit from this vintage. It, stylistically, is more full-bodied and more age worthy than our past Sonoma County Merlots," concludes Lyon.

Sebastiani Chardonnay, Sonoma 2001
Price $10
Rating 90
"We hand-selected grapes from several vineyards in Sonoma County for this Chardonnay offering. 49% of the grapes came from the Dutton Ranch in the Russian River Valley; this Sonoma County sub-region is now recognized as one of the world's best places to grow Chardonnay. 19% of the grapes came from our Estate vineyards in Carneros and the remaining grapes came from vineyards in Sonoma Valley and Alexander Valley," reveals winemaker Lyon. "This skillful combination of sub-appellations produced a well-rounded Sonoma County Chardonnay. The Vintage The Crops were low and quality high for the 2001 vintage. It was a rather unorthodox growing season: lower rain levels during the winter, still cold in April, and a hot May and June (when it is usually cool), followed by a cool July and August (when it is usually hot)...we think this was one of the best Sonoma County Chardonnay vintages since 1996."

"This wine is light gold in color and filled with yellow apple and toasty, buttery aromas. With a medium-body, this vintage shows generous apple and pear fruit flavors while maintaining crisp acidity, which is echoed in the lemon/citrus finish," observes Lyon. Learn more at www.sebastiani.com.
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Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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