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Pushkar

Colours of the Indian Mystique

By Tripti Pandey

A Lotus in the Desert
As the divine lotus held by Brahma – the creator of the universe, fell to earth, a lotus  blossomed in the desert with a fragrance that lingers till today. Pushkar as it is called was the most sacred spot in the universe for Brahma who chose it as his abode. The story of Pushkar is as intriguing as its location. In the pantheon of Hindu deities the Trinity has a great significance. According to the Hindu belief, of the three Gods of this Trinity Lord Brahma is the creator, Vishnu and Shiva are the preserver and the destroyer of the universe respectively. One day Brahma realized that not only Shiva and Vishnu but also all the other major deities had earthly abodes while he did not.
It was a sacred search. Mounted on the majestic wings of his heavenly mount – the white swan, Brahma flew over the earth holding the divine lotus in one hand.

Abode of Gods
`This lake soon became a favourite resort of pilgrims, and during the Middle Agesthe princely families of India vied with one another in covering its banks with temples and cenotaphs.’- Louis Rouslette
With its holy temples and bathing steps Pushkar could easily be called the Varanasi of Rajasthan. The full ritual once performed at all the three holy spots today focuses on the Jyestha or the elder Pushkar. During the days of the fair many pilgrims undertake the holy walk, known as Parikrama, around this lake. Year after year as the devotees put flower petals in the lake and the divine lotus shimmers in a place today known for the cultivation of red roses!

During the days of the fair all the steps around the lake witness a variety of rituals apart from the holy dip. While some of devotees float offerings of lamps, some perform elaborate rituals for deceased family members.

Celebrating the Fair
This fair is unique in its own way as it has two fairs rolled into one. When exactly the cattle fair started no one can really say. But looking at the sacred history of Pushkar it can certainly be said that the religious fair preceded the cattle fair. In the good old days with limited means of communication when the pilgrims travelled to Pushkar it took days or perhaps months. Such a huge congregation then inspired them to trade in the livestock and make some living out of their annual pilgrimage. It is interesting to see that by the 16th Century the cattle fair of Pushkar was already well established.

The Caravan
Rajasthan was on the caravan route that moved to the Northwest frontier. It is a historical fact that the western – most state of Jaisalmer – survived on the taxes levied on the caravans. It used to be a journey of years and till today stories of the caravans and the gypsy travellers echo in the songs. Just before and soon after the fair, all roads leading to Pushkar bring alive those medieval days. Herds of camels are led by the camel keepers and the families move in and out of Pushkar. Of course the sand dunes where these travelers camp, but for the neon lights, almost replicate the caravan camps of yesteryears .There is so much to observe and feel for a sensitive eye.

Making a Living
The fair as is obvious is not just all about fun and frolic. For many it is time to make a living along with the cattle traders. Several different people gather here to sell their wares to the traders who camp here for several days as well as to the pilgrims. So a diverse range of vendors gather here every year. In the bazaar some of these people set up their temporary stalls, while others take up the constructed shops. Some even ramble around with their products in search of buyers.Many snake charmers as well as the girls of the community perform to entertain the fair visitors and make some money.

Finally the autumn full moon waxes brilliant. And Pushkar returns to its usual quiet, as the sand dunes bear the last footprints of the camels to be drifted away by the timeless sand.

Travel with us to the Pushkar Fair
Indeed no fair in India draws visitors from India as well as abroad in such big numbers every year as this fair does. Some tourists come here to see the cattle fair while some come to experience the religious fair. Many travel to India just to be at Pushkar Fair. So having been there many times here are some useful tips:

Those who wish to see the animals must arrive at least a week before the full moon.

It is better to book in advance. The tariff during the fair is higher than the normal fair. Within the municipal limits of Pushkar alcohol and non-vegetarian food is forbidden. Photography in and around the lake is strictly prohibited during the days of the religious fair. A word of caution for photographers – police keeps strict vigilance and you can land in trouble. Special permission has to be taken from the District Administration to shoot around the lake.

As it is close to the sand dunes the climate here has extreme desert temperatures – hot during the day and cold in the night. Being a religious fair visitors are advised to dress conservatively.

To Contact the author-triptipandey@rediffmail.com

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