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Wanuskewin Heritage Park – Saskatoon’s Number One Tourist Attraction
By Habeeb Salloum
“What do you think is the most interesting tourist site in
Saskatoon?” I asked, a long time resident of the prairie city. Without
hesitation he answered, “Of course! It's Wanuskewin Heritage Park. It's the
ultimate showplace of the Plains Indian's culture and history, going back
thousands of years.”
His
words were still on my mind when I settled in our hotel in the heart of
Saskatoon - a university town of over 205,000, hugging both banks of the South
Saskatchewan River. The next day I decided to visit that well-known landmark,
but first I would tour one of Canada's most attractive cities.
Surrounded by greenery, Saskatoon is charming, cosmopolitan
and full of museums and parks. Its name is derived from the purple berries,
called by the Indians misaskwatomin, which saturate the riverbanks. Pies
and tarts are made from these tasty berries, which, since its inception, have
been the trademark of the city. The Plains Indians utilized them in the making
of pemmican (preserved dried meat) and, today, many countryside housewives
preserve them for winter use.
However, even more than saskatoons, gradually since it
opened its doors in September 1989, Wanuskewin Heritage Park has become
synonymous with the city. Derived from the Cree word, wah-nus-kay-win,
Wanuskewin, meaning ‘seeking peace of mind’, has been a sacred place for the
First Nations Peoples for thousands of years. Located on the west bank of the
South Saskatchewan, some 5 km (3 mi) north of the city, it is a place where the
descendants of the Northern Plains Indians have re-established on a 116 ha (300
ac) plot of land a sense of harmony with nature, revolving around the buffalo.
When we drove into the Park, both a heritage park and First
Nations Centre, the first sight that caught our eyes were the striking spires of
the Visitor Centre - the headquarters of the Park. Perched on a valley edge
overlooking Opimihaw Creek, its four tepee-like peaks, representing the four
seasons, the four directions, the four stages of human life and the four
elements of the cycle of life, looked impressive, towering above the surrounding
prairie land.
As we walked into the Centre, designed according to the
guidelines laid by a group of 12 elders, we followed a drive lane where once men
drove the bison to a buffalo pound. From within this replica of a former corral,
a shaman sculpture calls the visitor to enter the Centre. The reproductions of
bison in front of the entrance and inside the doors brings alive the age of when
70 million buffalo roamed the North American western plains. Romanticising a
bit, one can feel and hear the thunder of a great bison herd, as it was being
stampeded to its death over a cliff now a part of the park.
The Northern Plains Indians, consisting of the Blackfoot,
Cree, Dene, Lakotah, Nakoda and Saulteaux, for many centuries, camped on this
site to escape the winter winds, meet each other in worship and celebrations,
gather food and herbs but, above all, to hunt the bison - the basis of their
lives and culture. This spot was the holy of holies to the Indians of the
western plains - the place where buffalo culture reached its peak.
In Wanuskewin
Heritage Park's Visitor Centre, the 6000-year span of the buffalo culture comes
to life. By computer-activated displays, multi-media shows and exhibits,
visitors can explore the archaeology in progress, the natural beauty of the
landscape, the history and the spirituality of the Plains Indian peoples.
Walking into the exhibit hall, I was struck by the
inscribed excerpts from the religion of the western native peoples. The sayings:
“The eagle saved one girl from the great flood and set her back on earth to
found a great nation” and “Napi told the mud forms of woman and child ‘Rise and
walk for you must be people’” had a ring of the monotheistic religions. Clearly,
the teachings of the Christian missionaries were not strange to the natives of
the Great Plains.
In
the natural amphitheatre and outdoor activity area, all summer long, dances,
songs, storytelling, and a variety of demonstrations and celebrations take
place. Here, a visitor can also learn how to bake bannock, build a tepee and tan
a hide.
Besides the over 140 species of birds and 35 types of
mammals, including the beaver, coyote and whitetail deer, that call Wanuskewin
home, the Park is an archaeological treasure trove. It is the scene of one of
the largest archaeological research projects in Canada. So far, 20 historic
locales have been discovered, including bison jump and pound sites, a buffalo
rubbing stone, habitation spots, tepee rings and a medicine wheel.
The top visitor’s drawing card, the Medicine Wheel is
situated on high land in the southwest corner of the park. Said to be
approximately 1,500 years old, the wheel has a cairn in the middle and an outer
ring of lichen-encrusted limestone boulders. Archaeologists believe that it
marks the spot where sacred ceremonies were once conducted. First Nations elders
believe that it is one of the most sacred sites of the Plains’ tribes that are
still intact.
The
Wheel and all the other sites can be seen via an elaborate 8 km (5 mi) trail
system, which meanders through the park, along the wind-swept prairie and
through a sheltered valley, or as it is locally called, coulee. One square mile
of the coulee remains in pristine condition, never having been touched by the
plough. It presents, today, a priceless picture of the past.
We walked down to the coulee and were soon strolling
through the shrubs edging the main trail, ‘Path of the People’ which provides
the base for three other marked trails circulating off its sides: ‘Circle of
Harmony’, ‘Trail of the Buffalo’ and ‘Trail of Discovery’. Here and there,
during our two-hour walk, we stopped at archaeological digs, historic spots and,
at times, to sample chokecherries and Saskatoon berries.
Back at the Visitor Centre, we watched an Indigenous
Peoples’ folkloric performance then enjoyed a panoramic view of the Opimihaw
Valley below while we relished a buffalo burger in its restaurant - offering the
traditional foods of the Plains Indians. Late in the day, before leaving, we
bought a few souvenirs from the Gift Shop, featuring the best in native
handicrafts.
As we departed, a pleasant member of the Centre's staff
remarked, “Here, we are trying to bring our people's history alive in a positive
form. In Wanuskewin, different Indian cultures can offer their rich heritage to
others in a spirit of sharing and hospitality.”
Without doubt, his words reflect reality. The Park has
become a major tourist attraction in the Saskatoon City area and is contributing
much to public awareness and understanding of the Northern Plains Indians'
cultural legacy which embraces the ageless harmony between humans and the
natural world. Some 150 thousand annual visitors come to see this historic spot,
a model of cross cultural partnership of which the Saskatchewan First Nations
peoples are a vital partner and driving force.
If You Go
1) For visitors Wanuskewin is not hard to find. Look for
the bison signs along the roadways.
2) Wanuskewin offers visitors numerous special events – the biggest being the
National Aboriginal Day held annually in June.
3) Experience the Plains Indian culture by taking a package, which includes the
Overnight Tepee Village in Wanuskewin.
4) When in Saskatoon one should take a boat cruise around the city –cost $14.
Some of the Other Saskatoon Attractions
Canadian Light Source Synchrotron – a unique
research facility that will light the way to a new era of science and
innovations.
Meewasin Valley Centre – a place to learn Saskatchewan history and the
South Saskatchewan River through fun and interactive displays.
Musee Ukraina – exhibits the cultural heritage of Ukraine until the
Ukrainian emigration to Canada.
Saskatoon Zoo Forestry farm Park – exhibits its flower gardens, heritage
landmarks and 350 animals.
Western Development Museum – facility it features the longest indoor
museum street – 1910 Boomtown.
Where to Stay
Delta Bessborough Hotel, called Saskatoon’s Castle
by the River, the Bessborough offers history comfort and elegance, 601 Spadina
Crescent, East Saskatoon, SK S7K 3G8. Tel: 1-800-268-1133 or 306-244-5521. Fax:
306-665-7262. E-mail:
aturnbull@deltahotels.com Website:
www.deltabessborough.ca
Saskatoon TraveLodge Hotel, is a good family and
business traveller’s hotel, 106 Circle Drive W. Saskatoon, SK S7L 4L6. Tel:
1-800-578-7878 or 306-242-8881. Fax: 306-665-7378. E-mail:
info@travelodgesaskatoon.com Website: www.travelodgesaskatoon.com
For Further Information, Contact
Tourism Saskatoon, #6-305 Idylwyld Drive, North
Saskatoon, SK S7L 0Z1. Tel: (306) 242-1206 or 1-800-567-2444. Website:
www.tourismsaskatoon.ca; or E-mail:
wanuskewin@wanuskewin.com Website: www.wanuskewin.com
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