^TM

Andalucía, a sip of Sherry at a time

By Darryl Beeson

Spain's Andalucía spreads across eight provinces, drenched in sun throughout the south of Spain. Millions visit each year, but so few ever stray far from the Costa del Sol. This special portion of the Iberian peninsula, a part of Spain longest occupied by the Moors, the words "la Frontera" tacked onto many local place names, including that of Jerez, meaning that these towns were on the frontier between Christian and Moorish Spain. In this case Moor is not less.

Andalucía abounds with vines, but they tend to be more in the west than the east. The four Andalucía's wine regions (DO's) are Jerez y Manzanilla, Montilla-Moriles, Málaga and Condado de Huelva, all situated to the west of Granada. The DO's themselves account for over half Andalucía's vineyards. This is a part of Spain where lunch never starts before mid afternoon, and you may be grateful if you approach dinner by midnight.

Tradition dictates that in Jerez, the tulip-shaped copita glass would contain fino sherry. In Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Manzanilla, in inland Córdoba, it might be a bracing sip of Montilla, and so on.

Despite the powerful heat, this sherry region is well suited to vines. White albariza soil blankets the central growing area, between 60 and 80 per cent chalk, acting as a sponge, storing the winter rainfall until the vines require water in the midsummer.

Sandeman Superior Fino, Jerez N.V.
Price $9.99
Rating 89
The nose contains the predictable hint of acetone, not sounding pretty, but expected in the aroma from this bracingly dry Sherry. An entire array of complexity can be found in the sip. This selection is more user friendly than other more austere Fino options in the market place.
To offset the normal elements not unlike acetone, serve this fino Sherry well chilled along with roasted almonds, other nuts, green olives, and/or thinly sliced Spanish ham.

Osborne Pale Dry Fino, Jerez N.V.
Price $9.99
Rating 89
The nose contains the predictable hint of acetone, not sounding pretty, but expected in the aroma from this bracingly dry Sherry. A nutty array of complexity can be found in the sip, along with an array of austere elements.

Domecq Dry Fino "La Ina," Jerez N.V.
Price $13.99
Rating 91
The nose concentrates on fresh floral and resounding mineral beneath, a smoky and nutty array of complexity can be found in the sip, along with an array of wood derived elements. The complexity and flavor comes from the "flor", remnants of the special yeasts that create this distinctive wine. It is crisp, full of flavor and interestingly fragrant.
"La Ina features remarkably fresh apple, almond and yeast flavors," adds spokesperson Tony Lombardi. The crispness even allows this refreshing sherry to be served on ice.

Osborne Manzanilla Fina Sherry, Jerez N.V.
Price $9.99
Rating 90
This crisp, complex, bracing Sherry leads with nutty element on the nose and within the palate, the flavor is rich and long. Serve this dry, bracing beauty well chilled with roasted almonds, green olives, or spicy chicken in curry.

Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry, Jerez N.V.
Price $15
Rating 89
This is the world's top selling Sherry and is a blend of 80% Palomino with 20% Pedro Ximenez, adding sweetness. This rich sweetness makes it an easy choice as an aperitif or after-dinner drink. Some serve it on the rocks with a squeeze of lime or orange as an aperitif. It is ideal on its own with mince pies, Christmas cake or pudding or just dried fruit and nuts.
The distinctive blue glass bottle now used for Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry was introduced in 1997 to help denote Harvey's 200th anniversary.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

Back to TravelLady Magazine