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White wines for warmer weather
By Darryl Beeson
We turn now to chilled, refreshing wines to go with the
warmth and foods of the season.
Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2004
Price $16.99
Rating 89
The flavors are bright and crisp. Citrus, especially grapefruit, leads the way.
The length lingers nicely.
Winemaker Simon Waghorn suggests pairing the wine with
"summer salads, poultry and shellfish, especially oysters or green shelled
mussels, as well as lobster and white fish."
More information is at
www.whitehaven.com.
Canyon Road Sauvignon Blanc, California 2004
Price $8
Rating 86
The sip starts with delicate mineral, then there is ripe melon, grapefruit, and
slight tropical in the finish. The winery suggests drinking this white very
young, perhaps with salad or shrimp cocktail. Learn more at www.canyonroad.com.
Yvecourt Bordeaux (white) 2003
Price $8.99
Rating 86
The blend is 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle, the three
classic white grapes of Bordeaux. The aromas are simple, but earthy. The sip
reveals flavors of ripe honeydew melon along with more earthiness.
Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc “Te Muna Vineyard,”
Martinborough 2004
Price $12.99
Rating 90
“The wine is somewhat of a revelation,” boasts wine maker Steve Smith, MW, “rich
and evocative aromas of peach, apple, lime, hints of passionfruit and delicate
nuts. Flavors are forward and full with stone fruit, lime and grapefruit flavors
balanced with a bright sweet herbaceous edge. The palate is long and textural
with the unique gentle grainy character typical of this vineyard and a lovely
juicy feel. Earlier drinking than previous vintages. A classy, complex Sauvignon
Blanc showing signs of real pedigree.”
As far as a food pairing, Smith suggests “cheese from
Wairarapa and walnuts from the Hawkes Bay. French in concept, New Zealand in
origin, Francophile try this and weep.” Discover more at
www.craggyrange.com.
Estancia Pinot Grigio, California 2004
Price $15
Rating 90
As with previous vintages, this is, perhaps, one of the best versions of
California's interpretation of Italy's massively popular Pinot Grigio (the same
grape as Pinot Gris). "In the nose, you'll find pear, pippin apple, grapefruit,
orange zest and honey with a hint of white pepper and cardamom," boasts
winemaker Ken Shyvers. "There are full-bodied flavors of Anjou pear, white
peach, pippin apple and lychee nut flavors." There is a vibrant fruit intensity.
Learn more at www.estanciaestate.com.
Conundrum, California 2003
Price $28
Rating 90
“Well, my wine is going through them changes,” with apologies to musician Buddy
Miles, this wine is changin’. One, the name Caymus is no longer on the label.
Their spokesperson says that Conundrum outgrew Caymus and become its own label.
Two, this white is much less sweet than in previous vintages. It drinks like a
hab troken Riesling from Germany, though it is a blend of many grapes-
Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat, and others. It is, indeed, a Conundrum. Mighty
refreshing; Mighty tasty.
Simi Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma 2003
Price $13.99
Rating 92
Lots of lively acid and crisp, clean fruit flavors, they blend in anl amount of
Semillon (91% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon) achieving a richness on the palate
that gives the wine body and longevity. Bright citrus, orange blossom, pineapple
and melon with lemon curd, fresh cut grass and light oak aromas lead the way.
Zesty lemon-lime characterizes the mouth. Notes of grass and minerals with a
subtle oak finish out the complex length.
A spokesperson from the winery suggest pairing this wine
with “a wide range of foods, including oysters, chilled tomato soup, gazpacho,
roasted beet salad, or English pea soup.” Find out more at
www.simiwinery.com.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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