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Wales: Frozen Times Of The Land!
By D.K. Bhaskar
It
was five degrees centigrade outside as the Virgin train service from Reading
reached Birmingham New Street station. A rather courteous voice announced an
apologetic delay of my train. I wandered on the platform trying to keep myself
warm with a piping hot cappuccino in my hands. It was interesting to note the
different moods of my fellow passengers. “Damn it!”, cursed a young man while a
few others were trying to keep up with the day’s newspaper, of course always on
the look out for any new announcements.
Not
that any train would arrive early, but restlessness of all human beings for
unplanned delays was becoming apparent as we waited.
With my coffee all gone, the chill was still piercing
through my thick jackets. Nearby a young couple was huddling close to each other
as if trying to overpower the bitter weather. I walked across the platform quite
a number of times and finally my train approached. The loudspeaker announced the
arrival of the 12:45 Central Train service to Edinburgh; calling at ….I boarded
the train and settled in for an hour’s uneventful journey to Crewe. Idwal was
waiting outside the station for me in his brand new Toyota. We dumped my luggage
on the back seat and I made sure of resting my camera bag in front of me.
Many times across the world during my travels,
I
wonder whether my name is really so difficult to pronounce! I get to hear many
mutated versions of my name such as Bhasckaar, Bascaa, Bhascaa….. Strangely,
almost none of them get it right, much to my dismay! I spell it out and we move
on the country roads, while Idwal fills me in with interesting information about
the route we are driving through. It was time to eat and we decided to
stop at Durham Heifer public house, a famous drive-in pub and restaurant. The
name is nostalgic for I had stayed for sometime in County Durham,
famous
for its World heritage castle and cathedral. I settled for a hot onion soup and
a sumptuous vegetable platter after which I was energetic enough to tackle
anything.
Our journey continued across Welsh countryside was a treat
to the eyes. Every inch of the undulating moors and meadows refreshed our
minds. The breathtaking hues of autumn adorned the whole landscape. Little birds
blended their colours superbly with their surroundings.
While
the soft light of November was caressing the lichen- filled walls along the
route; a few trees were beginning to turn naked which would very soon transform
the colourful countryside rather stark and barren. Needless to say, when you
travel anywhere in the British Isles, you will come across some superb
historical landmarks so unique to that region.
The
very first landmark we witnessed the Poncysyllte aqueduct built in 1795 – 1805
over the valley of River Dee. The aqueduct is an imposing piece of
Georgian engineering, with the canal soaring up to 126 feet above the river in
cast iron troughs, mounted on 19 masonry arches. The aqueduct is 1007 feet long,
11 feet wide, and 5 feet 3 inches deep. The mortar used in the construction
comprised of lime, water and Ox blood. Built by Thomas Telford, the bridge was
primarily meant for transportation. With the advent of the railways and the
motorised road transport system the bridge became redundant. A world heritage
status awaits this architectural marvel of over 200 years, which celebrated its
bi-centenary not so long ago.
Our
next destination was the historic town of Llangollen nestling on the banks of
the River Dee at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains. A beautiful monument in the
form of a guitar attracted my attention and to my delight the place happened to
host the world-renowned International Musical Eisteddfod, a world renowned music
festival held in the town each July. Singers and dancers from around the world
perform both in the streets and in an International Pavilion.
A
town of barely three thousand is flocked by thousands of visitors during the
music festival.
On a hill to the south east of the town are the ruins of an
ancient fortress "Castell Dinas Bran"or Dinas Bran Castle, a ruin with many
historic and romantic associations, and commanding a splendid view of the
surrounding countryside. Legend has it that Prince Dinas who came to reside in
it built it.
The
castle is also called the Grail castle because of its plausible association with
the Holy Grail.
The history of Llangollen spans three thousand years,
through the Iron Age and the original Dinas Bran Castle to the legend of King
Arthur in the Dark Ages. An old and historic ruins of the Abbey founded in the
13th century stands testimony to this. The evocative ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey
(Valley of the Cross) lie in green fields beneath Llangollen's steep sided
mountains. In medieval times,
this
was a remote spot deliberately sought out by the austere Cistercian monks. After
years of glory the abbey was finally dissolved in 1537. A museum houses an
exhibition of evidences of the monastic life at Valle Crusis.
As we moved into the town, ruins of a castle above the
hill, was quite attractive. The light was going down and there wasn’t much time
for our exploration. Before long, we had to be safely back in the warmth of our
rooms. It seemed like a fine idea to have tea and what better place than to
enjoy it at Old Mill Restaurant. This 700-year-old piece of architecture was at
one time used as a flourmill. The building as it now stands was re-built in 1786
with three pairs of grinding stones, and continued as a working mill up until
1974.
The
first thing that struck me as I walked through the door was the great jumble of
old beams all around, with the water wheel turning slowly behind the bar. I
enjoyed the noise of the roaring river and the ambience of this romantic hide
out, while a big pot of typical English coffee with tea crackers were served. It
was as refreshing as the place itself.
As
we drove towards our hotel, I could not but wonder whether the people that lived
in this heaven of a place ever realize how lucky they were! The awe-inspiring
beauty of the place still haunts me from time to time. W reached the Royal Oak
at Betws y Coed overlooking the river, woods, walkways and the magic of colors.
A day’s travel in this place made me feel so relaxed and fresh. I felt lucky to
have had an opportunity to visit this heaven.
How
to reach:
By Car
Travelling to North Wales has never been easier - the A55 coastal Expressway
links the region with the historic City of Chester, the North West of England
and the motorway network - M56, M6, M53 and M54. For a leisurely drive and a
more scenic route, follow the A5 from Chirk.
From Crewe, Manchester and Warrington, Arriva Trains Wales
services
www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk, operate to Llandudno and Holyhead, and also on
the Conwy Valley Line, providing a scenic journey between Llandudno, Betws-y-Coed
For more details: Contact;
Wales Tourist Board
visitbritain@visitbritain.org
www.visitbritain.org
Brunel House
2 Fitzalan Road
Cardiff
CF24 0UY
Tel: 029 2049 9909
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