|
The Isle of Harris, Outer HebridesBy Vivien Devlin
Since 2003 Amhuinnsuidhe Castle has been owned by businessman Ian Scarr-Hall who manages the fishing and shooting rights on the Estate in a landowner partnership with the North Harris Trust. It’s heartening to know that Amhuinnsuidhe remains a private family home and continues to be run in the traditional way as a Victorian-style shooting lodge. Guests can sign up for a host of outdoor activities. Fly fishing and ‘dapping’ are the most popular pursuits when the sea trout and salmon season begins in June. In September and October, red deer stalking is available on the estate amongst spectacular wild scenery.
Whatever you do during the day, make sure you work up a healthy appetite. With Head Chef Ludwig Lechner and Effie the cook you can expect fine cuisine morning, noon and night, featuring the very best island produce. For breakfast, porridge, fresh eggs and Stornoway black pudding; gourmet picnic lunches; rum fruit cake for afternoon tea.
The list of things to see and do is endless. Rent a mountain bike, book a round of golf or an island tour of Lewis to see the ancient Callanish Stones which predate the Egyptian pyramids. Harris has two distinct north and south regions divided by a narrow isthmus of land at Tarbert, where the ferry arrives from Skye. An absolute must is a drive around South Harris so my recommendation is to rent a car during your stay in order to explore at leisure.
Harris Tweed is a vital part of the island economy, the byword for fine woollen clothing for over 160 years. It was thanks to Lady Catherine, wife of the 6th Earl of Dunmore, who, in 1842, personally promoted the locally woven tweed amongst her aristocratic friends and London society. Today Harris Tweed is renowned and revered by international fashion designers. Traditional handloom weavers Donald John and Maureen Mackay operate a small cottage industry business from their home at Luskentyre. In September 2004 they were given a major commission by the global sportswear firm Nike to produce tweed for a range of trainers which have become a must-have fashion item. So don’t go home without shopping here for scarves, jackets and cute, colourful bags - classic Harris Tweed has street cred, contemporary style.
Visitor InformationAmhuinnsuidhe Castle British Airways operated by Loganair.
Western Isles Tourist Board |
|
TM
According to mythology, on the sixth day
of creation God scattered the final precious fragments at random, landing in the
open sea off the Scottish coastline shaped into a curving necklace of sparkling
jewels. The archipelago of the Western Isles numbers around two hundred islands,
islets and tiny skerries, the majority uninhabited, stretching in a long chain
for 130 miles from the northern tip at the Butt of Lewis to Barra Head in the
south. They are also known as the Outer Hebrides from the Viking name,
Havbrodoy, “islands on the edge of the sea.”
If you believe you know Scotland, think
again. This is truly another world governed by ancient history, language and
culture. Here is the Land of the Gael where Gaelic is widely spoken as well as
English. Remote and isolated as it may seem, the Western Isles are easily
accessible by plane and ferry. After a short British Airways flight from
Edinburgh to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis we drove south across heather moorland,
wide glens, curving around long sealochs and wild, windy hilltop roads. The vast
expanse of the raw, natural landscape is simply breathtaking. Headinged west on
the winding single track B887, meeting few cars but several wandering sheep, we
arrive at our destination, Amhuinnsuidhe Castle, Isle of Harris.
Amhuinnsuidhe (pronounced Aven-suey) is
Gaelic for “sitting by the river”; the castle overlooks a fast flowing river
which cascades over rocky waterfalls down to the sea. This stunning and
beautifully preserved baronial Castle, within a 55,000 acre estate, is available
for residential sporting and private house parties through exclusive, and
occasional mixed party, weekly lets.
There are twelve cosy, comfortable
bedrooms (sleeping twenty guests): four-poster beds, attic suites, fantastic sea
views. Make yourself at home in the sumptuous drawing rooms, library, TV lounge
and billiards room, with all catering provided. For corporate events there are
first class conference, meeting and team building facilities. For leisure or
business, welcome to the ultimate de-stress zone.
The key incentive is the exceptional
fishing opportunities on the estate’s lochs and river systems which can boast
the finest Atlantic salmon and sea trout fishing in the world. The Castle has
five resident ghillies who can offer tuition and take guests fly fishing by boat
on the estate’s fresh water lochs - one of the most tranquil settings is Loch
Voshimid. J. M. Barrie (of Peter Pan fame) was absolutely mesmerised by
its haunting beauty and tiny island. This inspired his play, Mary Rose, a
romantic Hebridean ghost story in which he describes a fishing trip on the loch,
“ a blessed spot … the island that wants to be visited”
J. M. Barrie was a guest at
Amhuinnsuidhe around 1920 when the Scott family ‘fishing and shooting’ house
parties were legendary. The long, colourful story of the Castle has left a
valuable impression on the heritage and economy of Harris. Historically, Harris
is McLeod country, the deer park of the clan chiefs but by the 1830s, the
McLeods faced bankruptcy and sold the land to George Murray, 5th Earl of
Dunmore. In 1867 Charles, the 7th Earl, decided to build a family house at
Amhuinnsuidhe. He commissioned the famous architect of the day, David Bryce, to
design one of his trademark fairytale turreted castles. Despite its gothic
grandeur his wife Gertrude was unimpressed by its size, comparing it to a hen
house or stable at her father’s house. Charles then ordered another wing to be
added, only to bring financial ruin. The Earl’s London banker Sir Edward Scott
took over the castle and estate in lieu of debts. His son Sir Samuel Scott and
his wife Lady Sophie inherited Amhuinnsuidhe which they inhabited until Samuel’s
death in 1944. It’s widely believed that the spirit of Lady Sophie is still
present today around her beloved castle.
Head into the wilderness on a long hike:
the circular track from Hushinish Bay around beautiful empty beaches and quiet
lochs, over hills and rivers back to Amhuinnsuidhe is a pretty strenuous but
exhilarating walk where you may see a golden eagle and other wildlife. Weather
permitting take a boat trip to the island of Taransay or a full day excursion to
St. Kilda, an important seabird colony and recently named by Unesco as a World
Heritage site of both natural and cultural significance.
Dine in style at the mahogany table in
the candlelit, wood panelled dining room, sampling a menu of local langoustines,
scallops, salmon, estate venison and lamb, served with fine wine. In the evening
musical entertainment can be arranged featuring local Gaelic singers.
The west coast road runs along the
Machair seashore, through Luskentyre, Seilebost to Scarista Bay, beside miles of
never ending, deserted white sandy beaches. Blink and you could believe this is
the Caribbean. A worthwhile stopover is at Seallam!, (meaning Let’s Look), the
history and genealogy centre. In the 19th century thousands of islanders
emigrated to Canada and the U.S. and today managers Bill and Chris Lawson
undertake family ancestral research with around 700 international enquiries each
year.
Follow the coastline around to the
historic village of Rodel with its quaint stone harbour. Pause here awhile and
just look out to sea. Also make time to visit the 16th century St Clements
Church with its medieval carved tombs. The poet Louis McNiece captured the wild
heart of this remote south east corner of Harris as being “ at the end of
everything.”
From Rodel take the narrow Golden Road
up the undulating east coast towards Tarbert. This bleak, barren moonscape
curves around numerous rocky coves where tiny communities make a fragile living
through fishing, arts, crafts and weaving.
A sporting or leisure break in Western
Isles will give you a restorative sense of peace and wellbeing, while the
Amhuinnsuidhe Experience offers a taste of the old aristocratic lifestyle.
Explore the quiet wilderness in these glens of tranquillity and breathe in the
pure fresh air scented with salt, sweet heather and smokey peat. The weather is
as dramatic and changeable as the scenery.
Wait five minutes and a burst of
sunlight breaks through the grey rain-swollen clouds, painting the sea bright
turquoise. Far away from the beaten track across the Highlands and islands of
Scotland, this is a distinctly different, magical Celtic country, lost in time
and space. The magical Isle of
Harris, on the edge of a shimmering sea, will
dazzle your mind and revive the spirit.
