Paraty - A Island for Every Day of the Year

by Richard Frisbie

Paraty (the “t” is pronounced as a “ch” as in “ParaCHEE”) is a UNESCO World heritage site on the Southern Brasilian coast of the State of Rio de Janeiro, just a three hour drive from the city of Rio de Janeiro. This quaint community has cobblestone streets dating back to Portuguese rule, when gold mined in the mountains was brought down to the port on the “Gold Trail” and shipped back to Europe. The streets have the same look and feel as the old Roman Appian Way. Over the centuries the buildings of Paraty were also preserved so that, today, it looks much the same as when it was a bustling center of trade in the 1600 & 1700s.

The architecture of the old buildings lining the cobblestone streets shows the Portuguese influence, giving Paraty an “old world” charm. Curved windows and doorways, brightly colored against the traditional white walls, look as they did centuries ago. The historic port district does not allow any motor vehicles, so donkey and horse drawn carts are the norm, further adding to the feeling of being in a time warp. One can literally “step into history” by entering these narrow streets and alleys, almost expecting to see slaves carrying gold to the galleons anchored in the port. Then suddenly an American Express decal, or tourists in T-shirts and shorts rounding a corner will break the spell.

Paraty is sometimes called the Venice of Brasil. The Portuguese designed the streets to be below water level at high tide, with holes in the seawall to let the bay in. In this manner, the streets would flood and be cleaned regularly. A particularly high tide (in conjunction with a full moon) can even raise the sea level to, and into, the ground floors of some of the buildings. At these times makeshift small bridges allow passage through the streets.

Pousada do Sandi is an excellent hotel in the heart of this district. Modern amenities are hidden behind the old wooden beams, wideboard floors and stonework. Wi Fi Internet access, a pool in the center courtyard and TVs in each room offer the creature comforts one expects in any top notch inn. Bicycles can be rented, but everything - excellent restaurants, tour boats, incredible shops - can easily be reached from Pousada do Sandi by foot. Paraty is a city to unwind in, adopting the leisurely pace of the natives, exploring the shops by day and the bustling nightlife after sunset.

After dark, the sound of a Bosa Nova spilling out the open doors of the Margarida Café is an invitation to lovers of Brasilian music. The large noisy restaurant offers traditional sounds and excellent dishes, with steaks and seafood prominent on the menu. Here, Moqueca Caicara - grouper, shrimp, mussels in a tomato sauce, served with manioc, mushrooms and rice - is a local specialty. This, with a hearts of palm salad, will let you taste the best Paraty has to offer. Located on the edge of the historic district, around the block from Pousada do Sandi, Margarida Café is the perfect place to wile away an evening.

Paraty Bay, one of the most beautiful places on the Brazilian coastline, is often referred to as part of the “Green” coast, but “Emerald” Coast best describes the sparkling translucence of the bay reflecting the lush verdant jungle on the shore. Islands, one for every day of the year, dot the warm waters. The beaches are all public. If an island is inhabited, the privacy and property rights of the residents must be respected, but their beach is open to everyone. Getting to them is easy, too.

Boats are available for hire on the wharf at Paraty. Take an early morning walk to admire the different boat styles and colors. It is a great opportunity for photographs, and the perfect time to negotiate a charter. Figure on spending about 150 reals for the day, plus whatever you eat and drink. A day on the beautiful bay, with stops for swimming and exploring, will be your reward.

Sailing, snorkeling, and scuba diving are popular pastimes. Fishing, commercially, for sport, and for sustenance, insures that the bounty of the bay is a staple in everyone’s diet. Some islands have bars and restaurants, some also have rooms, so one could island hop through the waters between Paraty and Rio for a year, eating fantastic seafood and never stepping on the same island twice.

The lure of such an idyll is great, but the mountains of the National Park lining the shore also beckon. Hiking miles along the ancient Gold Trail into “lost” waterfalls and native villages is an exciting adventure. There is so much nature to enjoy in the mountains and on the bay that it is a shame more people don’t venture from the allure that is Rio de Janeiro, the city, to explore this tropical paradise.

NOTE about spelling: in Brazil the spelling is Brasil. I’ve used their spelling.

Paraty Tours
http://www.paratytours.com.br

Pousada do Sandi
www.pousadadosandi.com.br/

The Margarida Café
http://www.margaridacafe.com.br/english.htm

TurisRio (Tourism Company of Rio de Janeiro State)
http://www.1Rio.net

Rio Convention & Visitors Bureau
http://www.rcvb.com.br

TAM Airlines
http://www.tam.com.br

Roberto Burle Marx Gardens
http://www.travelroads.com/article/id_1455

Photo credit: Richard Frisbie