The Flavors of Malaysia

by Sandra Scott, Culinary Travel Editor

Malaysia is an incredible and harmonious mix of cultures. Each area of Malaysia has its own distinct flavor – literally. On the island of Borneo the Chinese, Indians, and Malay have mixed with other ethnic groups creating a wonderful variety of culinary delights.  John and I flew to Kuching the capital city of Sarawak. The view of the city from our room at the Hilton especially of the new, beautiful administrative building shattered my concept of Borneo. Kuching is clean, bright and modern. We toured the city, took a sunset cruise on the Sarawak River and visited the nearby Semengoh Orang Utan reserve where we watched the orangutans cavort among the trees.

From Kuching it was less than an hour to Damai Beach Resort on the South China Sea.  Adjacent to the resort is the Sarawak Cultural Center where we received a cultural passport which we stamped in each of the seven ethnic homes built around a man-made lake. We visited the extensive longhouse of the Bidayuh and the basic jungle home of the shy Penan known for their skill with a blowpipe. The townhouse of the Malay is also built on stilts while the farmhouse of the Chinese, unlike most of the local dwellings, is built at ground level. In each of the homes traditional activities took place.  Gongs announce the arrival of visitors to the Bidayuh house, in the Iban house women were deep frying rice treats, and in the Orang Ulu house women were making a snack similar to potato chips from the tapioca root.

A colorful folkloric show highlighted the various ethnic groups. The dances tell the stories of happenings in their daily life. The Iban dance shows the strength of the warrior as he lifts a mortar with his teeth and a Penan demonstrates his skill with a blowpipe. Most impressive was the man of the Melanau tribe who balanced atop a bamboo pole while it is turned around. 

As part of their weekly scheduled activities the Damai Beach offers cooking demonstrations of recipes that come from the local ethnic groups. Chef Sumardi greeted us in local fashion with his hand over his heart indicating that his greeting was heartfelt. Our lesson included fish in banana leaf from the Malay community, Kway Teow a very popular dish throughout Malaysia, and fish salad from the Melanau. The Melanau lived mainly in the central coastal area where they built massive houses forty feet above the ground and unlike other Borneo people they prefer sago over rice.  I must admit that the idea of raw fish didn’t appeal to me so I was surprised to find the salad delicious.

Umai Ikan (raw fish salad)

200g of fish, preferably red snapper fillet (cut into small pieces)
4 bird’s eye chilies – tiny green chili
1 turmeric leaf
1 stalk of lemon grass
2 shallots
½ inch ginger
15 ml of lime juice or Calamansi juice

Salt to taste

Chili flower and roasted sago pellets for garnish

1. Marinate the fish with lime juice for 10 minutes or more. Put aside.

2. Chop or grind three bird’s eye chilies and slice the remaining one. Don’t over grind the chilies.

3. Then slice the turmeric leaf, shallots, garlic, ginger and lemon grass.

4. Put the marinated fish into a bowl and toss in the rest of the ingredients. Stir well.   

5. Garnish with chili flower and Roasted Sago pellets over the mixturez.

After a week in Sarawak we flew directly to Penang on Air Asia.  Penang is much more developed but it also is a mix of many ethnic groups, mainly Chinese, Indian, and Malay.  We toured George Town, the capital and a UNESCO World Heritage site, visiting the old-style fishing villages, the fort and the beautiful blue Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. We had lunch in New World Park which is a large collection of modern hawker stalls selling all types of food.  We especially loved the Ice Kacang, a luscious and cooling mix of shaved ice with sweet red beans, corn, palm sugar, fresh fruit, and other sweets topped with ice cream.

Our lovely resort hotel, the Park Royal, offers cooking demonstrations three times a week as part of their daily activities.  It was perfect – lay around the pool most of the day and then head to the restaurant where Chef Teng and his staff put on culinary demonstrations. One day the Chinese cooking demonstration was on how to make sweet and sour fish.

The Malay cooking demonstration showed how to make Roti Jala, a crepe-like bread made jala-style by being drizzled on the pan to make a net-like bread.  Making it perfect is not as easy as it looks. Roti is usually served with curry.  The Asia cooking day featured Char Koay Teow, the signature dish of Penang. It is served at all meals.

Penang Char Koay Teow

150 gm of flat noodles
5 gm garlic peeled, chopped
35 ml cooking oil
30 gm prawns, shelled and cleaned
20 gm squid, cleaned with ink sac removed, cut into strips
10 gm chili paste
30 ml Koay Teow Sauce
20 gm bean sprouts, cleaned
10 gm chives, diced
1 egg

Heat cooking oil in the wok, sauté garlic until lightly browned. Add in prawns and squid. Saute for a few minutes, add in chili paste, bean sprouts, and flat noodles. Add Koay Teow Sauce and fry for 2-3 minutes. Lastly add egg and chives.  Stir. 

Koay Teow Sauce (make and save)

500 ml light soy sauce
4 tbsp sugar
4 tbsp fish gravy
3 tbsp oyster sauce
2 tbsp dark soy sauce

Whisk all ingredients together.

Interestingly, some of the sauces can be purchased premixed and packaged.  Malaysia is on our “gotta’ visit again” list.  The country is safe, tourist friendly and offers a variety of things to see and do – and eat.

If you go: For information on travel in Malaysia check www.tourism.gov.my. If visiting Sarawak check  www.hilton.com, www.damaibeachresort.com, www.sarawaktourism.com, and www.intercont.com.my. When visiting Penang log on to www.tourismpenang.net.my, www.parkroyalhotels.com, and for tours contact Ravi Sharma Travel Sdn.Bhd at sharma1@streamyx.com.