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Experiencing the Magic of French Polynesia
in Bora Bora and Moorea

By Katie McElveen

Dropping anchor in Tahiti in 1769, Captain James Cook and his crew were delighted—and a bit surprised--to be welcomed to the island by friendly Tahitians laden with gifts of flowers and tropical fruits.  Today, nearly two and a half centuries later, that gracious custom hasn’t changed.  Jetlagged travelers, many of whom have been in transit for more than twenty-four hours, can’t help but muster smiles as they’re greeted by the small and hospitable flower-bearing welcoming committee at Papeete’s airport.  As the creamy white blossoms fill the air with their heady fragrance, the magic of this captivating world begins to take hold. 

That legendary magic is what has driven romantics and adventure-seekers, writers and artists to these remote South Pacific islands for centuries. 

It’s not hard to see why.  With air so clear that the mountains seem close enough to touch, the whirlwind of tropical colors—deep magenta bougainvillea, bleached white clouds, pareos in every hue whipping in the breeze, all against a backdrop of lush green—is electrifying. 

But it’s the water that’s truly mesmerizing, palest celadon, aquamarine and deep midnight creating a surreal patchwork of blues.

Tahiti’s breathtaking water is the fortuitous result of the lagoons that surround each island.  Held captive by a necklace eons-old volcanic rock, the water inside each lagoon is alive with not only color, but with sharks, sea turtles, coral and a riot of tropical fish.

Bounded on two sides by islands, Bora Bora’s lagoon is perhaps the world’s most famous.  Since it’s fairly small (Bora Bora is only 20 miles around), one of the best, and most fun, ways to explore it is by circling the island on a waverunner.  Zooming through the water, which can change depth and color dramatically in just a few yards, turbo-charged explorers can experience incredible views of majestic Mount Otemanu from a coral reef or from the white sand beach of one of the many motus, or islets, that dot the lagoon.  Looking for more?  Bora Bora’s lagoons teem with fish, and scuba divers commonly see unique creatures such as smiling moray eels within the lagoons coral gardens.  True thrill seekers will enjoy the island’s legendary shark feeding tours, an underwater adventure where black tipped lagoon sharks are baited and fed just a few feet—and no protection--away.

Of course, Bora Bora isn’t just about the water.  Under the constant watch of Mount Otemanu, this amazingly romantic island is filled with art galleries, restaurants and deserted beaches just waiting to be explored, either by car or by bike.  During the day, stop by one of the many snack shops along the beach for poisson cru, an island delicacy of raw tuna.  In the evening, it’s easy to get a taste of Bora Bora, since most restaurants offer free transportation to and from local hotels.

Lodging on Bora Bora runs the gamut from guest houses to traditional hotels, but for the most one-of-a-kind experience, it’s worth the expense to stay in one of the area’s famed over water bungalows.  With thatched roofs, windows that can be opened for fish feeding built into the floor, large walled decks complete with lounge chairs and small staircases leading directly into the lagoon, the bungalows put an emphasis on privacy and romance.  Stay on the main island or, to truly get away from it all, rent a bungalow at one of the resorts on their own motus, such as the Pearl Resort (which offers helicopter service between its three Polynesian resorts for guests who want to visit several islands) or, with its turtle-filled lagoonarium, Le Meridien.  Either way, it’s a thrill to fall asleep to the ocean sloshing gently below the floor and awaken to an unfettered view of that cerulean water.

While Bora Bora is all about the water, Moorea, a jade-colored gem of an island just a ferry ride away from Papeete, is all about tropical beauty.  Here, verdant green mountains seem to rise out of the ocean, offering spectacular views of the island’s famous bays (Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay).  Thanks to a road system almost as extensive as Tahiti’s, most of Moorea’s lookouts, including the stunning Belvedere, are accessible by car.  To turn your motorized tour of the island into an adventure, explore the island, including the volcanic crater that created it, on a four-wheel drive off-road safari.  A terrific way to see areas of the island that are inaccessible to most visitors including remote open air temples and deep valleys, the safari tours usually include stops that offer, after a short walk, amazing vistas that are hidden to most visitors.  Naturalists will enjoy hiking tours on ancient trails through the forest, where guides can point out native plants and their importance to local culture. 

On the water, dolphin-watching is a tradition in Moorea.  Small, feisty spinner dolphins are regulars in Moorea’s blue lagoon, and they delight watchers with their antics.  Slip quietly into the water and, if you’re lucky, they’ll approach and you can see them underwater through your snorkel mask. 

Like its island cousins to the northwest, Moorea’s tiny seaside villages, with  grocery stores and local snack shops sitting alongside upscale jewelry stores selling black pearls and other merchants who sell their wares to tourists, are friendly and worth exploring.  Much of the local art is Gauguin-esque, no doubt influenced by Tahiti’s most famous artist, but there is also a wealth of local jewelry available, much of it made with colorful seeds, shells and other natural materials.

The early artists such as Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse who found inspiration in Tahiti may be long gone, but the wonders of these magical islands, from the exotic aroma of the native tiare flower, to the windex-blue water and the warmth of the Tahitians, continue to enchant visitors.

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