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A Retrospective of Jordan Cabernets
By Darryl Beeson
"From the beginning, Jordan Cabernet Sauvignons have
been made in such a way that they are round, fragrant and approachable upon
release, but have the capacity to age beautifully," explains winemaker Rob
Davis. "The blend generally comprises primarily of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon,
but we usually add 15% Merlot and around 5% Cabernet Franc. This, with the
use of both French and American small oak cooperage followed by bottle aging
in Jordan's cellars, adds to the wine's consistently elegant style." A red
wine in California is labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon if it contains a minimum
of 75% Cabernet. Find out all the other details at
www.jordanwinery.com.
The earlier Jordan selections from the decade of the
90's will be harder to find at retail than on some more important restaurant
wine lists. They are still worth the higher restaurant pricing based upon
their quality.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma 2000
Price $49.99
Rating 92
Luxurious aromas of cassis, leather, black olive and a
bit of leather, followed by flavors of rich fruit and vibrant complexity.
There is a distinctive brightness to the fruit.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma 1999
Price $49.99
Rating 94
Beautiful earthy aromas with complex, refined leather
elements, are followed by flavors of red cherry, dark baker's chocolate,
more complex fruit, freshly-tilled earth and much more in the long length.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma 1998
Price $44
Rating 91
The nose is delicate and alluring. A sip offers
elements of dark fruit, black olive, hints of refined leather and restraint
through the good length.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma 1997
Price $100 plus
Rating 96
The nose possesses Bordeaux-like qualities. There are
aromas of gooseberry, currant, pencil shavings and discrete, refined
leather. The sip enters softly with an array of complex fruit, gentle
mineral, and long, subtle length.
"A lot of quality wine is about losses," explains
winemaker Rob Davis. "We start out losing 10-20% of the fruit due to nature.
Later we elect to cutting back the fruit during its development, dropping
perhaps another 25%, in order to insure that the final harvest is more
complex." 1997 was both a huge and a high quality vintage.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1995
Price $100 plus
Rating 93
The nose is complex with subtle leather, dark fruit
with hints of ripe tomato and earth. The flavors are showing nice maturity.
There is cranberry and red cherry in the long, elegant length.
"Winemakers don't get paid for vintages like 1995,"
reveals Davis. "Everything came in from the vineyard perfectly. 1995 was one
of my favorite vintages from the decade."
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1994
Price $155 plus
Rating 94
The nose is Bordeaux-like complex with currant and
pencil shavings. The flavors include vibrant red fruit, bits of leather and
complex earth. This ten year-old is still going strong.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1992
Price $75
Rating 93
The nose is driven by mineral and freshly-tilled earth,
backed by elements of dark fruit. The mouth is an array of dark fruit,
leather, black olive, resounding mineral and more in the long length.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1991
Price $125 plus
Rating 91
The nose is ponderous with leather, pencil shavings and
dark fruit. The sip reveals mature fruit still in good form. This was a
challenging vintage, but the Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon is still showing
well.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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