|
Sail the AndesFrom Santiago, Chile to Bariloche, ArgentinaBy Sandra ScottSo often it is not destination but the journey that is the best part of traveling. I was reminded of this time and again as my husband and I made our way from Santiago, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina. We could have flown but luckily we chose to go by land and sea. So instead of a two-hour flight we took five days to make the trip.
Our journey started with a 12-hour overnight TurBus. Skip the image of bouncing along though the night in an upright position. We opted for the Premier Cama. Our seats were located in the lower section of the modern bus where, after a light dinner, the attendant turned the six seats into beds complete with a mattress, blanket, and pillow. I was lulled to sleep without a problem. Let’s just say my husband prefers a hotel room.
We walked along the waterfront to where people were being ferrying across the water to the beach, visited the 1800s wooden church on the Plaza de Armas, and discovered a new comfort food – churros with dulce de leche. For dinner we chose Club de Yates, a restaurant on a pier with great views, especially of the setting sun.
Puerto Montt, Puero Varas, and Bariloche are excellent destinations but it is not the destination so much as journey – a journey that included five buses and four boats and beautiful scenery. Images by Sandra Scott and John Scott |
|
TM
After
a few days in Santiago, Chile, we ended our visit by taking the funicular to the
top San Cristabal where we walked up to the Virgin statue before riding the
cable car to the Camino Real restaurant for dinner with an expansive view of
Santiago. 
When
morning arrived, so did the attendant with our breakfast, and shortly thereafter
we were in Puerto Montt, gateway to the Lake District, which turned out to be a
pleasant surprise. Our room in the Holiday Inn Express gave us a jaw-dropping
view of the bay. Puerto Montt retains the feel of a small town. My husband
agreed but said, “Why do we want to leave a view like this?” 
The
next day we took a cab to Puerto Varas. Called the City of Rose, it is another
village in an Alpine setting with a strong German flavor. The setting is
picture perfect. Beautiful Lake Llanquihue with the classic-shaped Orsono
Volcano in the background. We listening to street performers in the park then
walked up the hill to the church. We arrived at a most opportune time. The
florists had just finished decorating for a wedding. We sat for a long time just
listening to the beautiful music. Both Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas are places
that we would like to visit again. The scenery is outstanding and we could, as
my husband noted, “…spend days doing nothing but wandering around enjoying the
scenery, forgetting that there is a world beyond the Lake Region.”
The
next morning it was off to Cruce de Lagos. It follows the same route used 400
years ago by the Huilliches, the indigenous people of Southern Chile, and later
by the Jesuits. A bus took us along Lake Petrohue with incredible views Osorno
and Calbuco Volcanoes. We stopped at Vicente Perez Rosales where a short hike
on a nature trail led to the Petrohue Rapids, which tumbled and coursed over the
rocks. 
At the Petrohue wharf we boarded a
catamaran, Lagos Andinos. Again the views were inspiring as we sailed along Lake
Todos Los Santos for two hours never tiring looking at Osorno and Puntiagudo
volcanoes. Most of the land seemed untouched. Occasionally, we would see a cabin
nearly hidden by the evergreen trees and wish that it was ours. 
When
we arrived in Peulla it was lunchtime. Wisely, we chose to do the trip in two
days. After lunch some of our fellow travelers opted to try the zip line,
others went rafting; we chose to relax in our cozy room. When the group left a
wonderful silence descended on this quiet little niche in the forest. There
were very few guests in the old hotel with floors that creaked and groaned with
every step. We passed on the opportunity to try out a zip line through the
forest, instead we took a short hike to Novia Waterfalls. After a quiet dinner
and a glass of wine we returned to our room for a quiet evening of reading. A
wonderful respite – we loved the peace and lack of people. Again, it would be
easy to “lose” ourselves in this beautiful part of the world. Some people we
met said, “There’s nothing to do here.” That’s the whole point. With such
beauty there is no need to do anything but enjoy the peace and beauty.
In the morning we awoke to the sounds of
birds outside out window and fresh mountain air stirring the curtains. Too soon
it was time to get on the bus for the short ride to the Chilean border where we
completed border procedures. Back on the bus we bounced along a dirt road to
the Argentine border and completed their custom requirements. We met only one
vehicle during the two-hour ride, “A traffic jam!” quipped the guide. We boarded
another boat to cross Lago Frias. Then a short bus ride took us to Puerto
Blest, a lunch break but it was too soon after breakfast so we walked around,
and opted for coffee and a snack. 
After “lunch” a boat took us across
the lake to a series of steps that led to a waterfall and a big tree. The
operative word is “steps.” It was a long climb with many people opting out part
of the way… including me. My husband continued. However, I think I made the
best choice. I sat on a bench, chatted with all the people who passed by.
Between visitors it was quiet time – just me, the towering trees. 
As we motored along Lake Nahuel Huapi to
Puerto Panuelo I knew the adventure was coming to an end. We began to see houses
and other watercraft. We were bused to our hotel in Bariloche arriving about 4.
Given the option, I would have turned around and made the trip again but
Bariloche is another one of those locations favored by nature. We enjoyed
sitting in the main plaza with a view of the lake munching on the chocolate for
which Bariloche is famed.
“Chocolate is good for you, especially dark
chocolate,” my husband commented, as we watched the street entertainers. One day
we rented a car drove the Little Circle and took the cable cars to the top of
Cerro Catedral where we watched kids playing in the snow and had lunch at with
an impressive and expansive view.