Whidbey Island

A Step Backward into Washington's Past

by Gavin Ehringer

“Many think of Seattle and the Puget Sound region as a hotbed of tech firms, aerospace, and the ubiquitous coffee shops that seem to sprout like mushrooms after the frequent rain storms. But the Puget Sound of my youth - the 1960s and 70s - was one of apple orchards, berry farms and dairy barns, where Douglas fir and hemlock woodlands stretched from the mountains to the sea. Whidbey Island, located in north central Puget Sound about 30 miles north of Seattle, is a throwback to that more pastoral western Washington of decades past. With its abundance of small farms, parklands, charming small villages, plus hundreds of miles of rock and sand beaches, Whidbey offers a satisfying diversity of experiences for the traveler looking to escape the frantic pace of Seattle and its surrounding sprawl.

Most visitors arrive on the island via the ferry that departs on the half hour from Mukilteo, on the mainland. The trip over the water helps disengage passengers from the congestion and hustle of the I-5 corridor. Seagulls dart and float about the gigantic double-decker car ferry, hoping to catch scraps of bread thrown by regular commuters prepared for the sea journey. If you're lucky, you may spot California sea lions, harbor seals, or even gray whales and orcas as they pass through the protected waters of Puget Sound. On the Whidbey side, bald eagles perch on trees overlooking the waterway, hoping for the castoffs from fishing boats to wash up on Whidbey shores.

The first jump off point, Clinton, scarcely merits a stop, unless one needs gas or supplies. Besides the battered beach cabins and the grand "trophy" homes that dot the beachfront here, there is not a lot of charm in Clinton. Not, at least, when compared to Langley, a former farming community turned tourist destination that is characterized by art galleries, curio stores, restaurants and coffee houses. Located six miles from Clinton, Langley is a short jaunt off Hwy. 525, which runs north-south through the island like a spine. Langley was founded by an ambitious German immigrant named Jacob Anthes, who originally came to the island to help a Seattle businessman "prove" his homesteading claim. Over time, Anthes helped to develop the town on his original purchase of 160 acres; it's future was uncertain, however, when economic hard times hit in the 1890s. Fortunately, the town prospered during the Klondike Gold Rush as a supply line to the northward migration of prospectors, establishing the town and assuring its permanence. Much of its existing Victorian architecture and its modest but graciously lovely downtown buildings date from this era.

In the 1960s, Langley gained a reputation as a counter-culture destination. Hippies were barely tolerated by the staid citizens, but a good many stayed put and earned reputations as solid citizens. Their perseverance helped Langley gain a reputation as an artistic and literary community of renown. In February or March, the town becomes the setting for the Langley Mystery Weekend in which participants try to solve a fictitious murder mystery.

A roughly four block area constitutes the main business district of Langley. Among the more interesting shops is the Star Store, a combination grocery, deli, wine vendor and clothing boutique that is at the center of life in town. Another popular hangout is the Useless Bay Coffee Co., on Second Street, which has the requisite great coffee plus tasty panini sandwiches. For a more formal dining experience, try the French-inspired Prima Bistro on 1st Street (chosen as one of the Seattle area's 100 best dining experiences by Urbanspoon), or the stately Edgecliff Bar & Grille, whose menu includes regional fare such as the famed Penn Cove mussels nurtured on the island.

Heading north from Langley, grab a beach towel and make a stop at Useless Bay, a protected inlet whose flat sand beach is a pleasant place for a stroll. The bay is a favorite place for kite surfing, a new sport that is gaining rapid popularity on the island. On a windy day, you'll likely see dozens of the colorful kites dragging intrepid riders across the shallow sea water, catching air on the rippling waves.

Further along Hwy. 525, you'll encounter the town of Freeland, a good place to stop for necessities as the area abounds with grocery stores, gas stations, hardware stores and a farm supply center. Those wishing to camp on the island can make reservations for South Whidbey State Park, located about seven miles north of Freeland on Smuggler's Cove Road. This is one of the few places on the island (perhaps the only place) where one can experience old growth forest land, with huge, stately stands of trees, some of whose roots took hold centuries before the arrival of European settlers. Extensive hiking trails allow visitors to wander amid the forest or take the winding pathway down to a secluded beach on the Admirality Inlet. Just be sure to make advance reservations if you wish to camp, as the sites fill up fast in the summer.

The next must-see stopover on Whidbey Island is the picturesque Greenbank Farm, the keystone of the community of Greenbank. It's easy to spot the enormous red barn just off the road on Hwy. 525. Originally a working farm that at one time was the largest producer of Loganberries in the U.S., the farm eventually was bought up by the vintner Chateau St. Michelle. In 1995, the winery shocked the Whidbey community by proposing a 700-plus housing community, but the citizenry rallied to save and preserve the farm as open space. Today, it's fields lie mostly fallow, there is an on-going project to train farmers in organic and sustainable farming methods. Trails cut through the grass pasturelands and are enjoyed by hikers and dog owners, along with the woodlands that abut the property to the north. The Greenbank farm holds a Saturday farmer's market in the summer time and regularly-scheduled community events also take place there. It's a pleasant place for a stroll or picnic, and also features wine tasting, artist galleries, and a gift shop.

Coupeville is the next town on the Whidbey tour, and well worth a visit. Located about 30 miles north of the Clinton ferry terminal, Coupeville's main attraction is its quaint 19th Century architecture and its lovely pier, at the end of which sits a former grain storage building. Once a depot for loading grain crops from the surrounding farmlands, this building now houses a museum and the Local Grown Coffee Shop that attracts robust crowds of retirees and groups who meet here over steaming cups of the Northwest's signature beverage. Coupeville has a relative scarcity of worthwhile dining establishments, but this author can recommend Mosquito Fleet on Front Street, which offers chili, sandwiches, salads, and baked goods al fresco or indoors. If it's happy hour, you can belly up to the bar at Toby's, whose attic-storage decor and colorful local characters make it a fine place for libations but whose kitchen makes it a none-too-reliable place to eat.

On the northern outskirts of Coupeville, one encounters a broad, sloping plateau of farmland knowns as Ebey's Prairie. This is the Washington of my childhood, and the pastoral scenery will surely appeal to even the most ardent urban visitor. The small farms, many with rustic farm vehicles rusting on the margins of the croplands, paints a lovely tableau of a time in America long since past. Driving west across Ebeys', one comes to a sweeping rocky beach, with cliffs studded on top by Douglas fir forest. One can park at a small lot and hike the beach north for miles, or follow a trail along the cliff edge to experience dramatic vistas. It's a fine place to catch the sunsetting over the Olympic mountains before heading back down south to take the ferry back to the mainland.

Another possibility, however, is to continue north on Hwy. 525 through Oak Harbor, home of the island's Naval Air Station, and on over the dramatic bridge at Deception Pass. This trip will take you up into Skagit County and eventually over to I-5 (it's simple to follow the highway signs back to the freeway). The route is not only scenic, it helps avoid the long lines of cars that inevitably clogs the ferry passage on Sunday afternoons as the madding crowds of weekend visitors to Whidbey make their way back to Seattle after a relaxing day or weekend on Whidbey.