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36 Hours in Baltimore

by Robert Painter

I thought I was going to visit Baltimore over the weekend.  It didn’t take long to realize that I’d better tack on another day if I really wanted to get acquainted with the city.  I had been here many years ago and didn’t really remember much, if anything, about Baltimore.  It turns out that I could have added yet another day and kept myself on the run.

Even though it was raining when I arrived I discovered that Baltimore is a terrific city for walking.  Luckily, my hotel was in the heart of things, or so it seemed to me.  The Admiral Fell Inn, at Fell’s Point, is a lovely boutique hotel just across the street from the harbor and only a few minutes’ walk from the National Aquarium, the U.S.S. Constellation, the Port Discovery Children’s Museum, the Maryland Science Center and all the activities and excitement surrounding Baltimore’s Inner Harbor.  Fell’s Point is on the edge of Little Italy so if you’re a pizza lover or find yourself craving pasta, you’ll be in the right place.

My arrival didn’t really coordinate well with having lunch so I picked up a couple of the thick, chewy, oversized and delicious cookies in the hotel lobby to eat along the way to my first adventure of the day. 

The Maryland Science Center was having a special DaVinci exhibit that I really wanted to see. I wasn’t disappointed. Many of DaVinci’s ideas had been transformed into reality.  It was interesting to see which of his “inventions” actually worked when constructed according to his plans. I won’t spoil the fun and tell you which ones did or didn’t work, but I’ll give you a hint. You probably haven’t seen one of his flying machines in action.  But, you probably have seen some of the ideas incorporated in modern technology. 

There is a fascinating film showing a group of military men attempting to build a tank from one of DaVinci’s drawings. With a bit of trial and error – success!

One exhibit that could take hours of your time is the Mona Lisa. I was impressed to see how much study and research has gone into this one painting. There seem to be countless theories about various aspects of the painting and many of them are far more fascinating than you might imagine. And, from the Mona Lisa you can move quickly to the Last Supper and learn even more fascinating details of DaVinci and his craftsmanship.

I’ll leave it to you to make your own discoveries in the Science Center. There is much, much more to see and do here.

Nearby is the Baltimore Visitor Center which I would encourage you to visit.  I didn’t even stop in.  They were closed when I left the Science Center and I had too much planned already!

After walking around the Inner Harbor for a bit it was time to head back to my hotel and try to find something for dinner.  My path led me right through the heart of Little Italy so my task was easy. But, after a long travel day I wasn’t ready to sit in a nice restaurant and enjoy a lengthy meal.  I knew what I was looking for and found it on the same block as my hotel.  The Brick Oven Pizza shop quickly put together a combination of hot sausage and cherry peppers that turned out to be very tasty.

After a good night’s rest the following day held a long list of things to discover.  But, first I needed a quick and easy breakfast.  I had spotted the Broadway Market just down the street on my way home the night before.  I ventured into the second market building from the Admiral Fell Inn and really got lucky.  A Polish bakery with giant Apple Strudel for only $2.50. And, absolutely delicious! I ate it as I walked on my way to the Walters Art Museum.

Once again luck was in my favor and I came upon the Reginald Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture.  I thought I’d duck in and see enough to mention in my story and be on my way.  Two hours later and wishing I had more time I walked out the front door. In addition to the regular exhibits found here in the largest African American Museum on the East Coast, was a riveting exhibit entitled “381 Days – The Montgomery Bus Boycott Story.”  The exhibition is dedicated to the memory of Rosa Parks and, if you don’t know that name, you really need to see this exhibit.  It is organized by the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service. If you’re a member of AARP you can also thank yourself for helping to fund the exhibit. 

On to the Walters Art Museum to see the special exhibit of “HEROES Mortals & Myths in Ancient Greece.”  While the exhibit displays more than one hundred objects from U.S. and European museums, including items from the permanent collection of the Walters Museum, I thought the most impressive part of the whole exhibit was the collaboration of the Art on Purpose organization and the community of Baltimore artists and citizens in putting together a truly personal local experience that displays not only the Greek heroes, but recognizes local “heroes” as well.  Art on Purpose is a community group dedicated to bringing people together around issues that matter.  

On a lighter note the Port Discovery Children’s Museum is a big building full of fun.  It certainly incorporates plenty of learning opportunities, but the idea appears to be to enjoy all the learning experiences as much as possible while having as much fun as possible.  I watched one little girl checking out food items in the grocery store section. She was having fun, but she was being very diligent about scanning each and every item and doing it just right. There were lots of interactive exhibits and activities but I didn’t stay long.  I’m too old and too tall, but if I had brought along a little one it would have been a great way to spend a few hours. 

Another quick visit can be made to the USS Constellation.  The sloop may be best known as the flagship of the African Squadron, charged with the mission of intercepting vessels engaged in the illegal slave trade. After later serving as a training ship for the U.S. Naval Academy, the ship was finally brought to Baltimore in 1955 where school children raised pennies to help with the restoration. 

The nearby World Trade Center offers a 360 degree view of Baltimore from the Top of the World Observation Level, some 387 feet above the Inner Harbor. It is the tallest pentagonal building in the world and there are exhibits and information boards to help you learn what you are observing.

After another busy day you may want to check out the Woodberry Kitchen for some fine locally produced and prepared cuisine.  You won’t go wrong ordering oysters, shrimp and other seafood here. From their website: Woodberry Kitchen features the seasonal best from local growers and emphasizes organic meats and sustainable agriculture. Our goal is to nourish and delight our guests with cooking grounded in the traditions and ingredients of the Chesapeake region.                                           

How about another really busy, but fun day to polish off the weekend?  Let’s begin with a quick breakfast at the B & O American Brassiere, dedicated to eco-conscious preparation of your favorite treats, then straight to the Baltimore Museum of Art. If you are a fan of Matisse you’ll be impressed. The BMA’s Cone Collection is outstanding and they have put together an impressive Matisse exhibit along with a traveling exhibition displaying more than 150 prints as well as paintings, sculpture, drawings and books.  In coming months will be exhibits of Cezanne and Andy Warhol among others.  To top it all off, BMA general admission is free! Don’t miss it – and don’t forget the sculpture garden just outside Gertrude’s where you’ll probably want to have lunch.  

I’ve saved a couple of really fun things for last.  If museums are not your favorite activities then you’ll surely want to visit the National Aquarium.  Here you will find more than 11,000 marine and freshwater creatures. The shark tank is fascinating and you’ll learn that maybe everything you’ve heard about sharks may not be accurate. Watching the three-legged turtle may prompt you to learn about the rehab program here.  Walking through the South American rain forest is interesting, but enjoying the sights and sounds of the new 4D Immersion Theater will surprise you.  Especially when you find out that part of the 4th D is smell. It’s an impressive experience and one you’ll remember and tell your friends about.  When the snow if falling and when the creatures brushing against your ankles startles you a bit, you’ll know what the 4D really means. You will just have to experience it for yourself.  

Our Ocean Planet, the new Dolphin show is one of the biggest draws of the aquarium.  Check out the website and learn all about the dolphin “stars” of the show, with biographies and facts about these amazing mammals. If you really want to immerse yourself in everything dolphin, be sure and sit in the “splash zone’ during the performance.

If the aquarium hasn’t fully activated your inner child maybe your next stop should be Geppi’s Entertainment Museum.  But, it’s not just for kids.  The young at heart will find tons of memories here. Geppi’s museum has a goal of preserving and presenting pop culture and much of that is done through comic books.  You’ll see some really rare editions here, but even if your interest is not specifically comic books you will probably enjoy many of the pop culture relics to be found here.  Some of my favorites were old movie posters. Yours may be Barbie dolls or perhaps the fantastic collection of OZ books.  If you think the Wizard of Oz was a singular production, you’ll be surprised to see the dozens of other Oz books.  I had no idea that there were so many.                                                                                      Photo # 488

I think there’s time for one last stop before heading home. Mr. Rain’s Fun House at the American Visionary Art Museum will give you a chance for a quick meal in preparation for touring the AVAM.  It would be an understatement to describe it as “different.” It has been designated by Congress as “America’s national museum for self-taught art” and is the subject of some controversy in Baltimore art circles.  I thought it was fun – you’re free to form your own opinion.  Just be sure to visit.

When You Go:

http://www.mdsci.org.  The Maryland Science Center – check times and schedules for all the events here.

 http://www.aqua.org. National Aquarium Baltimore.  Read this before you go to make sure you don’t miss anything when you arrive.

http://www.africanamericanculture.org. Don’t miss it – view exhibit schedule here.

http://thewalters.org. Check here for hours, exhibits and special events.  Don’t dare miss it.

http://www.geppismuseum.com. Don’t miss 250 years of American Pop Culture.

http://www.harbormagic.com/admiralfell/admiral_fell_default.asp. Information & reservations for the Admiral Fell Inn.

Story and Photos by Robert Painter, Luxury Adventure Travel Editor – rpainter2006@comcast.net    

 


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