Magical Encounters in Bruges

by Janice Rossen

Bruges is bewitching.  Everyone who has visited there will have already raved to you about it.  While I am saying still more in its praise, I am inspired to write on the corner of it which I am slowly discovering, and which is hidden behind secret doors.  What I’ve also discovered—along with these marvelous and amazing places—is the warmest possible welcome, from hotel and restaurant staff who seem delighted to invite you inside.  Friendliness is all, I think, and all the more so if you decide to really smash out and choose a very high level establishment, either to stay there or to dine.

In Bruges, it can be worth it to do so.

I say this a bit solemnly, as I am the sort of traveler who is so besotted with good food that I have nearly always found a tiny bed and breakfast in which to lodge (sometimes slipping into the lobby of a nearby grand hotel, to order a cup of tea or a glass of wine, and sort of pretending that I’m staying there), and then I spend the rest of my budget on dining out.

The wonderful thing about Belgium altogether, and Bruges in particular, is that the sense of joie de vivre is so pronounced that you can dine nearly anywhere and the food is marvelous.  Traditional Belgian cuisine offers you such a huge pile of accompanying frites (even when you order something like a salad) that you simply cannot go wrong.  But the amazing thing about Bruges is that while it feels a bit like Disneyland—almost too good to be true, and totally oriented towards tourists—it retains its merriment.  The local people who live there seem to still love it, despite the inroads of tourists throughout the year.  And there is no graffiti.  This is becoming a serious matter, in my own opinion, in Holland, where I now live.  I am continually shocked and saddened by the aimless scribbles which continue to encroach every available blank wall in an historic village center.

In Bruges, they have sorted these things out, and despite the huge influx of tourists, everything feels very friendly, clean, and equable.

Also, though this might seem a strange thing to say in its favour, Bruges is quite large.  This is one of my private observations about traveling, when one finally manages to arrive at some famous spot which everyone else seems already to have seen.  The famous world heritage sights are—for the most part—large.  Big.  Grand.  You can spend three or four days just walking around Bruges, and encounter totally different shops and restaurants in completely different sections in town.

This kind of exploratory wandering is, in fact, how my mother and stumbled upon one of the most enchanting possible shops, when we visited Bruges together last spring.  It is near to the Jerusalem Church (this will orient you), and the name of it is Au Bonheur des Dames.  The lady who owns it has the most exquisite artistic eye, and her shop contains an eclectic mixture of antique bits and pieces, lovely old buttons, unique fabric, and some of the most fabulous skeins of yarn I’ve ever seen.  I don’t even enjoy knitting, and I’ve already done most of a scarf, from the highly unusual yarn that I bought there;  it was simply crying out to be made into something wonderful.  I also made a small cushion out of some extraordinary fabric.  My mother and I only wished that we could have attended one of the workshops which the owner gives, though I did buy one of her hand-knitted scarves, and wear it often, with great pleasure.

Nearby, in the same area of town, we also visited the Museum voor Volkskunde, which carries on the same theme of handmade articles and old-fashioned ways of making clothes, food, and shoes.  The museum contains a succession of rooms which are set up to portray a typical hat-makers shop, for instance, or a dress-maker’s, or a bakery, or an apothecary.

Also to be found in this northern area of town is the Café Vlissinghe, which has apparently been serving drinks on the same spot since 1515, and thus is the oldest restaurant in Bruges!  The real delight of discovering spots like this is that virtually no other tourists have done so, and you can sit down for a quiet cup of tea in the middle of the afternoon surrounded only by a few local people who are reading the newspaper.

As for museums in Bruges, you will have an amazing choice.  The Groeninge Museum never ceases to astonish, no matter how many times I’ve visited Bruges.  The chance to see a Van Eyck painting alone—of which there are so few in all of Europe—is breathtaking.  My mother and I were lucky enough to catch a major exhibition, on Karel de Stout, showing Burgundian riches of surpassing magnificence from a medieval court (all of which had been swept off to Switzerland as booty, during a battle, and only now were making a courteous return visit to Bruges).  My other favorite spot (which I never miss) is the Memling Museum.

But what I started out to try to explain is this:  there are a few very, very select and lyrically beautiful spots in which to stay, in Bruges.  You can have a perfectly wonderful visit by choosing a modest guest house.  At the same time, I decided on our last couple of trips there to stay somewhere very special, and it certainly added to the trip.

I will start with the Maison le Dragon (which bills itself as an ‘Exclusive Private Guesthouse’), and I tiptoed through it (at the invitation of the owner) with awe.  There are 18th C. original paintings on the sitting-room walls, and I would imagine that to stay there would feel as though you were sleeping in a museum.  However, the reason that I mention it here is that while everything is most exquisitely appointed and sumptuously elegant, it seemed very comfortable.  The 18th C. wall paintings, and harmonizing blue greys were intended, I think, to be restful, and you could immediately imagine curling up on the sofa (in front of the working fireplace!) with a book.

I was also utterly swept away by the private guesthouse Bonifacius, which has only three rooms, and is presided over with enthusiasm and immense care by the owner, Lyne Vanhaecke.  (I should perhaps explain that all three of these spots—that is, including the Romantik Pandhotel, which I am about to describe—are owned by members of the same family, which is how I happened to see the Maison le Dragon and Bonifacius.)  Ms. Vanhaecke herself spent months in restoring this townhouse (also in the center of Bruges) and choosing all of the colours, textures, bath fixtures . . . and truly, I must say, she paid attention to every detail.  There is a sitting room (which is open to everyone staying in the three guest rooms) which looks through mullioned windows onto a canal, with a view of the cathedral.  In summer time, you can go up onto the private roof terrasse, and in winter, the touch of a button will light the fireplace in the sitting room.  Again, I would say that it was extremely elegant, yet also comfortable at the same time.

My mother and I actually stayed for one night in the Romantik Pandhotel, which I had always been keen to try, as it has been well-known in Bruges for many years.  It is the sort of place which wins awards for being a ‘Best Charming Hotel in Europe’ (by ‘Prix Villegiature,’ October 2007 in Paris), and the elegance of the antiques in the hotel sitting-room is indeed sumptuous.  What won my heart was the private sauna, which you must book in advance, but for that hour it is all your own!  At breakfast, the next morning, a most excellent chef produced omelettes that were so fine we asked her for her technique (she finishes them off in the oven—an Aga stove, naturally!). I am also filled with respect for the kind of hotel owner who—despite reams of awards and years in the business—is personally attending to the change-over of bedrooms, which was what Ms. Vanhaecke was in the middle of doing when the concierge suggested that I might like to meet her.

To digress for a moment to the subject of food in Bruges, I will proudly announce that my mother and I dined one evening at De Karmaleit.  This is the only three-star Michelin restaurant of which I’ve ever entered the portals, and it was truly an unbelievable experience.  To carry on the theme of this article, we felt that we were dining in a museum, with the majestic proportions of the rooms, the elegance of the 18th C. fireplaces, and the brilliant (mostly 20th C.) oil paintings on the walls.  The flower arrangements on each table alone made it a superb setting.  I will have to say, the staff were also amazingly friendly, for such a very elevated establishment.  Every dish was about as complex as one could very well stand, consisting of something like sixteen or seventeen different elements arranged artistically on the plate.  Magnificent.

We were also in raptures over De Witte Raaf (translated as ‘the white raven’), which rightly announces its genre as ‘Moderne topgastronomie.’  The young couple who own and run this wonderful spot are enthusiastic about their work, and kept on bringing a succession of artful and delicious dishes to the table.

The piece de resistance of this whole mad-about-Bruges passion that I’ve developed is the guesthouse Nuit Blanche.  If you would like to have the impression that you are staying in a 15th C. room, within the confines of a medieval city (wait!—of course, with all modern conveniences!), this does the trick.  It is an incredible place.  Having discovered it quite by accident, only a few months ago, I’ve already returned (I knew that my mother would adore it too!), and booked another holiday there again.  It so enthralling, and such a privilege to be in this space, and with such a host! 

The house was indeed a succession of things, over the centuries—a forge, for some time, and its recent history saw it owned by a very sophisticated couple in the 1930s, who restored it with impeccable taste, and redid all of the wood paneling on the walls in proper style.  Their utterly astonishing artistic legacy remains:  a succession of medieval stained glass medallions which are installed in all of the windows throughout the house (yes, even in the bathrooms!).  You must also be prepared for the rather quixotic mix of David De Graef’s own artwork (which is very contemporary—he is a master of air-brush technique), as a counterpoint to this medieval resonance.  But they work surprisingly well together.  It almost feels as though one is suspended in a time warp—not least because David has done nothing to ruin the total effect of the house itself.  The house is fantastically fortunate in its succession of owners, as he loves it and lives in it with exquisite style.

You will never partake of such a breakfast!  In winter-time, he lights a fire in the huge fireplace, and in summer-time, the door to the garden stands open.  He is an artist in life and in the kitchen, as well as in his painting, and a succession of lovely dishes waft out onto the table:  fresh fruit, yoghurt, thin slices of charcuterie, divine cheese, and an omelette to follow all of these delights.  He makes his own jams and jellies, and I was once served foie gras torchon for breakfast, with accompanying quince jelly (his mother had brought him some that she had made, and he shared it with us!  What a man!).  If you prefer, you may choose to be served breakfast in your room, though it’s often fun to dine with the other guests and, of course, the host himself.

I hasten to add that he only rents out two rooms, so you must book ahead!  Intriguingly, he has also created (in addition, as a third option) a small sort of annexe room which he designates as a ‘children’s room,’ so one could easily stay at the guesthouse as a family.

Yet another magical aspect of dining chez David De Graef is the music which accompanies breakfast, of a spirited group called Ishtar (whose two CDs I myself have acquired, and listen to them at home).  It is a most remarkable experience altogether.

I find that I have left out two of my favorite restaurants in Bruges, so I will close with mention of them.  Both are within a block or two of Nuit Blanche.  Restaurant Den Dyver specializes in Belgian beer, and not only offers dishes prepared with beer, but a sort of menu where they serve you an accompanying, different beer with each course.  Their description of themselves is that they combine ‘le vin et la biere en marriage culinaire,’ which I think is lyrical—combining wine and beer in a culinary marriage!  The restaurant itself is a cross between elegance (impeccable white tablecloths, thinnest of wine glasses) and zestful food, with extremely cordial service.  It is very much a family restaurant, which gives it a cheerful spirit, and on my latest trip to Bruges (with only one night to dine—imagine trying to choose!), I opted for dinner at Den Dyver, and was exceedingly pleased.

I’m also extremely fond of De Koetse, which is plain, simple, and serves a huge bowl of frites (remember those frites I was talking about?—this is Belgian cooking at its most traditional).  They serve wonderful mussels and entrecote, as well, and you can have a very reasonable set menu for either lunch or dinner. 

A few notes:

The very magical knitting/antique shop is Au Bonheur des Dames, tel. +32 (0)50 33 63 63, and the website can be found at www.desdames.be   In fairness, I must add that my friend Janey (visiting us from Cornwall) actually finished the mohair scarf which I had begun with such enthusiasm—but it is indeed beautiful, and I haven’t seen wool like it anywhere else.

Museum voor Volkeskunde can be found at Balstraat 43, the Groeninge Museum at Dijver 12, and the Memling Museum at Mariastraat 38.  All details of current exhibitions and opening times are on www.brugge.be/musea 

Café Vlissinghe is located at Blekersstraat 2, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 34 37 37, info@cafevlissinghe.be,  www.cafevlissinghe.be

Maison le Dragon, run by Emmanuel Vanhaecke, is in the very center of town, on Eekhoutstraat 5, 8000 Brugge.  Tel. +32 (0)50 72 06 54, info@maisonledragon.be and the website—well worth a look!—is www.maisonledragon.be <

Bonfacius Exclusive Private Guesthouse, run by Lyne Vanhaecke, can be found at Groeninge 4, B-8000 Brugge, Tel. +32 (0)50 49 00 49, info@bonifacius.be, and the website is www.bonifacius.be <

The Romantik Pandhotel, owned and operated by Chris and Lyne Vanhaecke is located at Pandreitje 16, 8000 Brugge, tel. +32 (0)50 34 06 66, info@pandhotel.com, www.pandhotel.com 

De Karmaleit can be found at Langestraat 19, 8000  Bruges, www.dekarmaliet.be.  Part of the fun of dining at such a truly fabulous place (if one is not used to such grand and lofty ambiance) is covertly watching all of the other diners who look ineffably aristocratic and almost bored.  Whereas my mother and I kept on exclaiming to each other in amazement, at the exquisite detail of every new dish presented to us, the well-coifed couple at the next table simply picked up their forks without comment.  The two of us made up for their silence, however (speaking in suitably low tones, as one must in a European restaurant), and went away into the night giggling at how wonderful a meal it had all been.  While the prices made the mind reel, upon first opening the menu, I realized in the end that it was not significantly more expensive than a couple of the other high-end, Michelin-type restaurants that we tried—and was certainly (to a novice diner at De Karmaliet) worth every penny.

De Witte Raaf is located right off of the main square, at Hallestraat 4, 8000 Brugge, Tel. +32 (0)50 34 71 29, info@restaurantdewitteraaf.be, www.restaurantdewitteraaf.be.  The restaurant is closed on Thursdays and Sundays.

La Nuit Blanche, David De Graef’s Guesthouse can be found at Groeninge 2, 8000 Brugge (just behind the Groeninge Museum!), Tel. +32 (0)494 40 04 47, www.nuit-blanche.be  Ever generous, he has instituted the scheme of offering three nights for the price of one, if you book midweek days.  There is always a complimentary bottle of Cava in your mini-fridge, and a new stack of art books and DVDs on the table each morning, chosen specially by David.  On our latest visit, he had slightly changed the breakfast scheme, bringing to the table a succession of small treats:  a champagne glass filled with fresh fruit and yogurt, then a sort of tiny sandwich with house-smoked salmon in the center, still more things I can’t now remember, and finishing with tiny poffertjes (crepes) with lime, butter and sugar sauce.  Superb.

Ishtar’s music is hard to describe—inventive musical arrangements and spirited vocals.  It feels the same way that Celtic music does, to me (you want to get up from your chair and dance!).  I suppose the proper category is ‘world music.’  Their website is www.ishtar.be, and the CDs are available directly from info@ishtar.be  I can’t wait for their next CD, as I have nearly worn out O Julissi and TroubAmour.

Den Dyver Restaurant, Dijver 5, 8000 Brugge, Tel. +32 (0)50 33 60 69, info@dyver.be, www.dyver.be  The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and is also open for lunch as well as dinner.

De Koetse, Oude Burg 31, 8000 Brugge, Tel. +32 (0)50 33 76 80, koetse@proximedia.be, www.dekoetse-brugge.be.  The restaurant is also open for lunch, and closes on Thursdays.  The last time we dined there, we ordered the ‘gegratineered mosselen,’ which are mussels which arrive on a huge plate, each on its open shell, simply swimming in butter and fresh herbs.  The staff was so impeccably polite that they brought us more bread, in the middle of our meal.  They also serve Duvel beer (my favorite!) on tap.

P.S.  The one thing that you must be prepared to encounter in Belgium—in all other ways, so friendly, so cheerful!—is the infuriating refusal on everyone’s part (naturally, never the case in David’s Nuit Blanche!) to serve you absolutely one ounce of drinking water that you have not paid for. 

I do not know why I have never been able to come to terms with this aspect of the culture.  Being American, I resent it, and in Holland, where I now live, everyone is prepared to be practical about the matter.  (I make an exception for Perrier—I regard this as a different thing, as I actually like it in preference to tap water.)

You might easily spend 200 euros for a slap-up dinner in Bruges, if you are dining at a very glam place and order wine with the meal—but merely ask for a glass of tap water and you will be summarily refused.  An astute friend in Delft has now explained to me the key:  if you tell the waiter that you must take a pill (thus requiring water on medical grounds, as it were), he will oblige.  I should like to start a whole wave of resistance to this unfair meanness on the part of all Belgian establishments!  Let’s tell them we have headaches—or soon will acquire them—and need to take an aspirin!

Photographs by Janice Rossen