History Comes Alive In Melaka - The Soul Of Malaysia

by Habeeb Salloum

Called by some 'the soul of Malaysia', Melaka or Malacca as it was formally known, gets it name from the Arabic malqan (meeting place) - a centre where medieval merchants from Arabia, India and the Malayan archipelago met to trade. Officially declared a historic city in 1989, it is the country's most interesting urban centre - a town with a glorious past which takes one back to the once renowned spice trade. Without this city's distinguished history, Malaysia, as we know it today, would not exist. 

Melaka occupies the foremost place in the hearts of the Malaysians, since the early story of the country is the history of this city.  Boasting a legacy of uniqueness and charm, it oozes unperturbed remnants of the past as it races to the future. Even though now it is a sleepy backwater urban centre, no other town in Malaysia invokes the past so vividly.

The Sumatran Prince Parameswara established the city in the early 1400s and shortly thereafter converted to Islam. In a few years, Islam and Melaka's power had spread too much of the Malay Peninsula. Due to its calm waters and strategic location on the Straits of Melaka and the trading ability of its merchants, it became very affluent and the greatest seaport in the Far East.

For a hundred years, Melaka controlled the barter between the East and West in gold, opium, perfume, silk, tobacco and, especially spices, becoming the nerve centre of a great trading empire and the strongest state in southeast Asia. Its fame and affluence became renowned throughout the then known world.

At the turn of the 16th century, the prosperity of Melaka aroused the envy of the Portuguese who had come to the East in search of conquest and wealth. A Portuguese sailor at the beginning of that century wrote: "Melaka is the richest seaport with the greatest number of merchants and abundance of shipping that can be found in the whole world."

Its reputation as a port of fabulous riches drew the Portuguese to this part of the world.

They occupied the city in 1511 then stayed for a 130 years. Today, from their era, are the ruins of St. Paul Church on a hill overlooking the gateway, A'Famosa (Porta de Santiago) - all that remains from a once mighty Portuguese fortress.

A few of the descendants of the Portuguese conquerors in Melaka still speak Christo - a medieval Portuguese dialect, not understood in Portugal today. About 1,600 of these relics from another age - their ranks are gradually being depleted by emigration - live in close-knit families around Portuguese Square. Here, in what is called ‘Mini Lisbon’, they enjoy authentic Portuguese dishes and the performance of local cultural shows. These reach their epitome for a week in June when a colourful carnival commemorates the Apostle St. Paul. <

The Dutch in 1641 defeated the Portuguese and occupied Melaka for almost 200 years. In 1824 the British who stayed until after the Second World War in turn defeated the Dutch.

Dutch Square is a living testimonial to the one time presence of the Hollanders. A neat square with a clock tower edged by the salmon-­coloured huge Stadthuys (Town Hall) - a masterpiece of Dutch architecture. Built in the 17th century, this oldest Dutch building in the East is now an historic museum. To the back of the square is the 1753 built Christ Church, an impressive example of Dutch architectural ingenuity.

These and the other relics from the European occupations are ornaments that embellish this historic town. However the British who began to occupy the Malay Peninsula in the early 19th century left the deepest imprint. They did not leave many monuments or structures but influenced the life of the people in many other ways.

Not only Melaka but also the whole of Malaysia owes much to these imperial conquerors who only left in 1957. The basis of the country's civil service, education, roads, modern industry and much more were laid during British rule.

Besides the European conquerors, the Chinese were another people who have left a deep mark on the city.  Melaka has the longest settled Chinese population in Malaysia. Their most important legacy is Bukit China (China Hill) - an area with a connection to China since the 15th century.

In 1459, the Chinese Ming Emperor sent his daughter, Princess Hang Li Poh to marry the reigning Sultan Mansur Shah. The Sultan gave her and her entourage, made up of 500 ladies-in-waiting, Bukit China for their residence. In the ensuing years it became a burial place for the Chinese population. Today, its 12,500 graves make it the largest Chinese cemetery outside of China, with many of the tombs dating back to Ming times. Most of the tombs are built in the form of wombs - indicating one comes from the womb then returns to the womb.

During British rule, many Melakan Chinese were induced to immigrate to Singapore. Today, their descendants are investing in apartments and hotels and replacing old traditional homes with bungalows to which they come for vacations. These modern structures have dwarfed the ancient section, but its memory lives on.

Even though the Melaka of long ago is no more, every street and every monument of the old city tells its own story of conquest, heroes and valour. A small compact town with narrow streets edged by fine examples of the traditional Malay houses and wonderful historic buildings, it exhales a quaint medieval aura. Today, it is famous for its food, handicrafts and schools that graduate the top students in Malaysia.

The whole of the old city is a fascinating area in which to wander and examine ancient mosques, temples, sailing ships and antique shops located along Jalan Hang Jebat, formerly known as the Jonkers. The polyglot of people moving amid these structures seems to nicely fit into the picturesque scene.

Moving slowly by foot or by trishaw, a form of the rickshaw, through the exotic crowds and surveying the centuries old buildings, it is easy to dream of sultans and Western invaders warring for the riches of the East. As the tourist brochures say, "Listen hard! You might just be able to hear the pounding of cannons and the war cries of A'Famosa or the babble of foreign tongues in the market place, in Melaka where it all began..."

IF YOU GO

How To Get There:

147 km (91 MI) from Kuala Lumpur and 245 km (152 MI) from Singapore Melaka is connected by excellent roads with these cities. The best bet is to take air-conditioned buses from Kuala Lumpur. Alternatively, if one is staying in Kuala Lumpur, a one-day excursion is a good bet.

Facts about Malaysia and Melaka:

For most countries, no visas are needed to enter Malaysia, only a valid passport.

Currency can be exchanged at moneychangers, hotels or large department stores, but the         most favourable rates are to be found in the banks. Currently US$1. equals 3.42 ringgits.

The whole of Malaysia is a real gastronomic adventure.  Besides Western food like McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken, Malay, Chinese, Thai and Indian foods excel those in their homeland. For a memorable dinner one should try the Seri Angkasa Revolving Restaurant atop of one of the Petronas Twin Tower. Here one can enjoy a sumptuous buffet dinner while admiring the breathtaking panoramic view of Kuala Lumpur. Meals in peoples' eating places range from $5. to $10.; in tourist restaurants and top hotels from $15. and up.

For those visiting Melaka for the first time, an hour's ride up the Melaka River is a must.  Taken from behind the Tourist Office, opposite the Stadthuys. Cost about $4.00.

There is a 40 Malaysian Ringgit on all international flights.

All prices are quoted in U.S. dollars.

Some Of The Important Sites Not Mentioned In The Story:

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, built in 1646, it is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia.

St. Peter's Church, built in 1710 with an architectural mix between Oriental and Occidental, it is the oldest church still in use in Malaysia.

St. Francis Xavier's Church, an impressive twin Gothic-towered church. <

Kampong Kling Mosque, built in Sumatran style, it is one of the oldest mosques in Malaysia.

Tranquerah Mosque, an old unique mosque with a pagoda-like minaret showing Chinese influences, it reflects architectural grandeur.

Kampong Hulu's Mosque, built in 1728, it is the oldest mosque in Malaysia.

Melaka Sultanate Palace, situated at the foot of St. Paul's hill, it houses the Melaka Cultural Museum.

Proclamation of Independence Memorial, an attractive structure, formerly the house of the Melaka Club. Located near A'Famosa, it houses exhibits that portray the attainment of Malaysia's independence.

The Melaka Maritime Museum, it traces the maritime history of Melaka - stretching back 550 years.

For Further Information. Contact

Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board: 17th Floor, Menara Dato' Onn, Putra World Trade Centre, 45, Jalan Tun Ismail, 50480 Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 603-2615 8188. Fax: 603-2693 5884.  Email: tourism@tourism.gov.my   Website: www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my/  or

Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board: 830, Burrard Street, Vancouver, B.C, CANADA V6Z 2K4.  Tel: 604-689-8899. Fax: 604-689-8804. E-mail: mtpb-yvr@msn.com  <

Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board: 595 Madison Avenue, Suite 1800, New York, NY 10022, U.S.A. Tel: 212-754 1113/14/15/16. E-mail: mtpb@aol.com <

Website: www.tourismmalaysiausa.com