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Fred MacMurray's Wine Legacy- My Three WinesBy Darryl Beeson"In our family, there was no clear line between religion and fly fishing," reads the opening of Norman Maclean's novello, "A River Runs Through It," painting an evocative portrait of the sons of a small-town Montana minister. Actor Fred MacMurray, grandson of a horseback traveling Presbyterian minister in Scotland could have written an equally to-the-heart story. In the late 1930's, MacMurray discovered approximately 900 acres of perfect Sonoma land, with the Russian River running through it, perfect for his love of fly fishing. He bought it. He ranched it. In the mid 1950's, he brought his new bride, June Haver, to his beloved retreat. Haver, groomed by Fox to be the next Betty Grable, left the film industry wanting, and later with their children embraced this more simple life. "Being in Los Angeles was work, meaning daddy was in a film," remembers daughter Kate MacMurray. "When we were back in Sonoma, as a family, we were home." A successful screenwriter with a long career in film production in Los Angeles, Kate MacMurray has retained a spiritual home in a quiet corner of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. “Our family wanted to keep the property in agriculture, so the idea of preserving the ranch as open space was an immediate conversation between ourselves and the Gallos. We knew this family takes a long-term view of the care and management of their land. They wanted the trees, the streams, and the vineyards to be a part of the land for many generations to come. They are a thoughtful and careful family who appreciate the beauty of this landscape and are devoted to the history of this ranch.” I joined Park Cities News publisher Marge Waters in a corner booth at the important Dallas area restaurant, Sevy's, in the heart of the Park Cities, with Kate MacMurray, as we both evaluated the current release wines form MacMurray Ranch. The wines are well crafted and capture the distinctive influence of the soil. It is hard to select what we enjoyed most- the wines, or Kate's endearing stories about her father and life on a cattle ranch now planted with vines. The old homestead still stands in the meadow. The wrought iron gate that Fred MacMurray built still swings out onto Westside Road. Most of the neighbors are winemakers, but a few farmers still graze cattle along the road, signposts to a past when land was everything and the future was measured not by ROI, i.e. return on investment, but by return from generations. Kate proudly speaks about the MacMurray Ranch. "The wines honor my father and our family who loved the land and enjoyed its bounty for over 50 years. When I taste these wines, I have a chance to share what the ranch means to me with people who have never had the opportunity to see its beauty and know its history." The Russian River begins far to the north of Sonoma, flowing South through a dramatic, rock-rimmed path. Near Healdsburg, the river suddenly turns West, toward the ocean, and on its way, washes the edges of MacMurray Ranch vineyards. The first winegrapes were brought to this region near California’s Sonoma Coast by Russian fur traders who arrived at the start of the 19th Century and established their base on a bluff near the mouth of the river. This was a region rich in wild game, known for its towering redwood groves and fertile meadows. The beauty and productiveness of the land attracted early settlers who built homesteads in sheltered spots between the river and the hills. Farmers raised apples, plums, grains and hops, and always, grapes for wine. By the start of the 20th century the Russian River Valley was already famous for its wines, which were said to have a special character, a depth and brilliance in their flavors that come, not with ease, from the land, the climate and very careful farming. Here is a quick tasting rundown. These wines should be available at most serious wine shops. If they are not stocked, request that your source does so. And if you are lucky, watch the movie "Where Do We Go From Here?" (1945), the only movie in which June Haver and Fred MacMurray appeared, while you sip the wine. MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley
2002 Aromas of cashew butter and fresh herbs, then flavors of tropical lime, cashew and delicate citrus floral. Mac Murray Ranch Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2001 A concentrated nose of brier fruit and freshly tilled earth, then crisp red fruit with flavors of cherry and delicate earth. MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
2001 A complex nose of black cherry with a hint of Asian spice and fresh earth, then flavors of black cherry, subtle earth and herbal nuances. Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications. |
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